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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Coil wire? The coil wire prior to disasembly ran directly from the ignigion switch to a ceramic box on the exterior firewall. I am assuming this the resistor....the wiring diagrams have the wire comming from the ignition switch to the firewall enging plug, then out the engine harness to the coil. This the way I have rewired the car as I am trying to get it back to how it is suppose to be. The guestion is, I guess I have to still run through the ceramic box somewhere in the engine bay. Where was this box suppose to be mounted or is it someones creative engeneering?
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Not 100% sure how the 65 is but my 66 has a resistor wire and no ceramic block. Its a pink wire thats under my dash. You may have the same design. It kinda blew my mind when I was redoing the wiring in my 66. Might try looking to see if its there or go to the parts store and ask them if they have a coil resistor for a 65 mustang thats also what I did and it helped me locate the wire on the car. Good luck. Latman
 

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The ceramic resistor was added by a previous owner perhaps. Latman is correct about the resistor wire. You should be able to remove the ceramic resistor, after you've verified your car still has the pink resistor wire. With the ignition switch on, check the voltage at the ceramic resistor where it comes out from the interior. If your resistor wire is ok, you'll see roughly half of what you would normally expect. Or in other words, 6 to 7 volts. Do this with the wire to the coil hooked up. If you get 6 or 7 volts, you should be able to do away with the ceramic resistor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The coil says 12v on it, and then says use restistance wire bla bla underneath. Does that mean its made for a 12 volt system w/ resister wire as oposed to it should have 12 volt?
 

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The ceramic box is a ballast resistor. Mallory and others sell these for folks wanting aftermarket conventional ignition systems. Chrysler cars also used the ceramic box style resistor for many years and so these can be found at most parts stores. My guess is someone knew what they needed, i.e. a ballast and so they used the cheapest solution...a piece of wire and a Autozone ballast resistor for a Mopar.

The solution is to remove the resistor, run the wire directly to your coil from the firewall. Another wire needs to run from the same point on the firewall to the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid (factory stock this is a brown colored wire). Under the dash, you'll need to find the "ON" terminal of the ignition switch (factory stock car has a short umbilical lead with female connector). This female plugged into a male connector and Pink colored wire (ballast wire) that goes to the firewall connector. I can't remember for sure but I think the firewall connector also has a short umbilical wire. If it does, the pink wire has a female on the firewall end and connects to a male coming from the firewall plug. In this position you should see aftermarket wire connection. This is a very easy fix once you know what to do. You should have no problem finding the replacement ballast resistor wire. It should be 1 ohm to 1.2 ohms and be long enough to reach from the firewall to the ignition switch under the dash.
 
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