Sorry 68 convertible with 200 ci engine.Year?
I forgot I also swapped out the starter solenoid too.
Sorry 68 convertible with 200 ci engine.Year?
I was thinking that too but same as you, I'm no electrical expertI’m far from an electrical expert but if you had a short I’d think it would blow a fuse and it would not have relit the 2nd time at all. Maybe a loose connection somewhere would be my first guess.
How would I know?Does the 68 have the two resetting circuit breakers in the headlight switch like the 65/66? If so you probably have a short and it keeps tripping and resetting?
I know I probably need to take the cluster back out, but it took so much effort to finally get it in. It breaks my heart to remove it againPinched wire behind the cluster?
I will check the fuse tomorrow, but it is a brand new headlight switch. I installed it three weeks ago.For the 7 cluster lights, check the 2.5A fuse.
The headlights don't need the key on, but they do need the knob out. Check that the knob shaft is engaged with the switch, but it sounds like a bad light switch, which could also cause a problem with the cluster lights.
So you’re saying that it wasn’t seated all the way in the cluster?If I may,
I had a similar problem after I installed my Dakota Digital cluster.
Mine turned out to be one of the main connectors on the firewall going to the engine bay. I thought it was all the way seated, but it was only partially seated.
Just a thought,
Hmmm. I’ll have to check that. Explain to me how that works?If the instrument cluster lights DON'T work but the horn DOES work then it's NOT the headlight switch.
So I pulled the cluster and made sure everything was seated and a good ground. So far everything is working.What Woodchuck is saying is that they are both powered by the same circuit breaker inside the light switch. But there is still a switch that could also be defective in "On" or "Park" (circled in yellow).
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No they are not. And neither are the taillights.No. The instrument cluster lights should stay on in both "Park" and "Head" mode. Make sure you have the correct headlight switch as some are "pinned" differently. It sounds like the cluster lights are getting power from the "park" feed. Are the parking lamps on with the headlamps?
I’m sorry still sort of a newbie when it comes to electric. I have a multimeter (7 Function Digital Multimeter)Then I'd pull the headlight switch and test it with an Ohmmeter against the wiring diagram. If it appears correct then I'd check the "pinout" of the headlamp switch plug.
Is there a specific reading I’m looking for?Grab your multimeter, set to the 200 Ohms scale, put the RED test lead on the "B" (battery) terminal on the switch, move the switch through its positions and check the other pins with the BLACK lead as shown below.
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Sorry, I didn’t follow the directions the first time.As close to zero as possible.
I went back and retested, realizing I didn’t follow the directions properly. Only D1 and D2 don’t have continuity I’m assuming that still means bum switch.Sine "P" did not change it sounds like you have a "bum" switch. "P" should be near zero with the switch in the first pulled position. D2 should be near zero with the knob turned all the way CCW into the detent.
There’s only continuity between D1 and D2 if it hits the point where the courtesy lights should turn onSorry, Look for continuity between D1 and D2, with the knob turned all the way.
I assume that means the switch is operating properly. So what would be my next step?There’s only continuity between D1 and D2 if it hits the point where the courtesy lights should turn on
The marker lights and the cluster don’t work when the headlights are on.Exactly WHAT stops working properly when you have your issue? Just the instrument cluster illumination or more?
Sorry I meant the parking lights.When you say "marker" do you mean the front side marker lights or the front parking lights? The front parking lights do NOT work with the headlights, only in the "PARK" (1st) position. If the cluster lights work in the "PARK" position but shut off when you pull the switch to the "HEAD" position then either the switch is defective or the plug is wired improperly.
Rheostat makes good contact through CW and CCW rotation and into contact point. I looked at the Blu/Red wire and it’s seated properly with a clean contact point.Check that the BLU/RED wire is properly located in the headlight plug in the slot matching up with the "I" position. If it IS, examine the rheostat and its contacts that something isn't moving when the switch is pulled out all the way.
Just to make sure I understand, if I use ohmmeter on the wiring harness for the light switch and test between A(or B) and R I should have continuity?If I follow the discussion properly, you have an open in the wire somewhere in the highlighted area. Disconnect battery cable, with headlight switch on you should have continuity (almost 0) between A (or B) and R. Where are you located? depending on where you are I or someone I know may be able to help you. I'm in NC.
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