Electrical question.

2306 Views 66 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Snulma1, 7 mo ago

Snulma1

Discussion Starter · 8 mo ago

I have an electrical problem I’m trying to wrap my head around.
Dissasembled my dash to replace my gauge cluster, redo the radio, repaint, and then replace my heater core and wiring.
Swapped out the gauge cluster, and tested the lights with them all working. Then plugged back in the wiper switch and seated cluster as well as screwed in.
Went to check the cluster one last time and they lit up but then went dark.
Thought that may be the battery was low, so pulled it out and placed on a charger for two hours. Placed back in and the lights lit up and the wipers worked but then everything clicked off again.
I’m assuming there’s a short somewhere but not sure where to start. Does anyone have any suggestions?

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Em1ssdv

· #61 · 7 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
What does "R" have to do with things? That's the rear tail lights which, I believe, work fine. I though the issue was the instrument cluster lights, which is "I", and which the OP already tested, above and which stop working with the switch in the "HEAD" position even though a "bench test" shows continuity.

Sorry Snulma1 unfortunately I don't know anyone in your area that could help.

To explain my comment, voltage on a line can interfere with taking an ohm reading therefore I stated to disconnect the power source. With the circuit breaker shut points A and B are the same electrically. With switch in park position, arrow straight up & down, power moves from switch to the right to R (tail lights) and up to the rheostat to power I (instrument panel). With the switch in head, arrow at about 225 degrees, power enters the part I highlighted before splitting to the tail lights and instrument cluster. However, Woodchuck is correct that if there something wrong in the highlighted portion you would also loose your tail lights.

If it's not a distraction, start the car and perform the following; with switch in park measure voltage between ground and I then measure same with switch in head. Do the same measurements and switch positions between ground and R. Because the instrument cluster goes through the rheostat (relatively higher resistance), a ground on the highlighted area could cause a voltage drop so the tail lights work and the instrument cluster is not receiving enough power to see the lights through the rheostat.

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Snulma1

Discussion Starter · #62 · 7 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
Sorry....

Find that red tap with the BLU/RED wires and stick a test light into it. If you get a test light but no dash lights you can assume (I know, I know....) that the problem may be the cluster connector or "printed circuit".

So, using my tester, I was unable to get a light while tapping into the red tap with the blue/red wires. I tried with the key in the off position and light switch in the off, then park, then head position, as well as with the key in the on position, and the light switch to all positions

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Woodchuck

· #63 · 7 mo ago

Snulma1 said:
So, using my tester, I was unable to get a light while tapping into the red tap with the blue/red wires. I tried with the key in the off position and light switch in the off, then park, then head position, as well as with the key in the on position, and the light switch to all positions

Okay... let my brain think for a minute.... Key doesn't need to be "on" for cluster lights to work.

With the headlight switch in the "park" or "head" positions is there power to both sides of the 2.5A fuse in the fuse panel?

One side only = fuse blown.
Both sides = okey dokey. Apply 12v to the red "double tap". Do the cluster lights come on? If so, power isn't getting from the fuse box out to circuit 19. Trace wires FROM the fuse box to the lighting circuit.
Neither = power not getting to fuse box from headlight switch. Trace BLU/RED wire (circuit 19) from fuse box to headlight switch. Make sure terminal in headlight switch plug is being properly retained by it's "tab" and not getting pushed out when plugged in. You already indicated power was getting to the terminal in the headlight switch so..... Also make sure something isn't getting stuck that is pushing the rheostat contacts away when the switch is installed..

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Snulma1

Discussion Starter · #64 · 7 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
Okay... let my brain think for a minute.... Key doesn't need to be "on" for cluster lights to work.

With the headlight switch in the "park" or "head" positions is there power to both sides of the 2.5A fuse in the fuse panel?

One side only = fuse blown.
Both sides = okey dokey. Apply 12v to the red "double tap". Do the cluster lights come on? If so, power isn't getting from the fuse box out to circuit 19. Trace wires FROM the fuse box to the lighting circuit.
Neither = power not getting to fuse box from headlight switch. Trace BLU/RED wire (circuit 19) from fuse box to headlight switch. Make sure terminal in headlight switch plug is being properly retained by it's "tab" and not getting pushed out when plugged in. You already indicated power was getting to the terminal in the headlight switch so..... Also make sure something isn't getting stuck that is pushing the rheostat contacts away when the switch is installed..

The 2.5A gets power on both sides.
how do I “apply 12V”?
Sorry probably a basic dumb question

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Woodchuck

· #65 · 7 mo ago

Snulma1 said:
The 2.5A gets power on both sides.
how do I “apply 12V”?
Sorry probably a basic dumb question

Find something to use as a jumper wire, find a power source (you know the fuse has juice), shove some bare wire into the double "tap", touch the fuse with the other end and observe.

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Snulma1

Discussion Starter · #66 · 7 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
Find something to use as a jumper wire, find a power source (you know the fuse has juice), shove some bare wire into the double "tap", touch the fuse with the other end and observe.

Got it. Thought it was as simple but wanted to make sure. I’ll give it a shot when I get home

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Snulma1

Discussion Starter · #67 · 7 mo ago

So I tore everything out, cleaned battery posts and clamps, charged battery, put in a new starter solenoid and even put a new headlight switch in.
now the gauges light in park and head position.
not sure where the issue was. But the dash is almost completely back together.
Thanks so much for the help.

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