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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone: I've got a 67 fastback with a 289 4bbl and 4speed toploader. I've got a tribute tachometer in place of the am/temp guage that was working at one point along will all other electronics. One day the tach quit along with the turn signals, fuel gauge, temp gauge, heater fan and radio. The car runs perfect and starts great. Please help!! I'd like to fix this myself as electric diagnostics costs an arm/leg!! Thank you all for any help on this.
 

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How long have you owned it?
Have you done any work on it lately.
I think the word you wanna use is "electrical" problems, not "electronics" problems.

Sine what you state above are all electrical issues with instrument cluster, and you are handy, you'll be most likely looking for a dirty/bad connection. Since multiple circuits are involved, I'd pull dash cluster out or back and verify connections like at molex connector are tight and clean. But first verify ground wire on cluster clean and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How long have you owned it?
Have you done any work on it lately.
I think the word you wanna use is "electrical" problems, not "electronics" problems.

Sine what you state above are all electrical issues with instrument cluster, and you are handy, you'll be most likely looking for a dirty/bad connection. Since multiple circuits are involved, I'd pull dash cluster out or back and verify connections like at molex connector are tight and clean. But first verify ground wire on cluster clean and tight.

I've owned it since 2011 and restored it in about 3yrs. Just been driving it now so have not worked on it recently. Last time I checked the fuses we're good. I'll pull the dash when I get a chance and see what's going on. I do know that there is a regulator on the back of the cluster that controls certain instruments so maybe this could be the problem? Would be nice to find a simple answer but that rarely happens!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Electronics working fine then not working is usually a ground or fuse link of some sort.

Would be nice if it's just a ground. The last time I looked at the fuses they were good to go but will check again. Thanks!
 

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I do know that there is a regulator on the back of the cluster that controls certain instruments so maybe this could be the problem? Would be nice to find a simple answer but that rarely happens!
Doubt the regulator will not take out the radio or heater. Assuming its not a fuse, I would take a jumper cable and ground the dash good from the battery to see if its a ground or a power issue. If its not ground, then start at the power for the heater, radio and/or regulator and work towards the solenoid looking for a bad connection. There is a bulkhead connector at the firewall. THey can get funky, separate it on the engine compartment side and use a wire brush on the male pins. Then take ~3" regular electrical wire (multi-strand core) that just fits in the female ports, strip a 1/4" and fray the end a little, put the other end in a drill and clean out the female ports then blow them out good. Do that to every connection you find. Even if this is not the problem, its good to do every 50 years or so...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Doubt the regulator will not take out the radio or heater. Assuming its not a fuse, I would take a jumper cable and ground the dash good from the battery to see if its a ground or a power issue. If its not ground, then start at the power for the heater, radio and/or regulator and work towards the solenoid looking for a bad connection. There is a bulkhead connector at the firewall. THey can get funky, separate it on the engine compartment side and use a wire brush on the male pins. Then take ~3" regular electrical wire (multi-strand core) that just fits in the female ports, strip a 1/4" and fray the end a little, put the other end in a drill and clean out the female ports then blow them out good. Do that to every connection you find. Even if this is not the problem, its good to do every 50 years or so...

Thanks for this info!
 

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Byron I would start by looking at the accessory side of your ignition switch output circuit. Using a test light with your wiring diagram and visual inspection should be able to locate it with confidience.
 
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