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Discussion Starter #1
I searched the VM forum and the internet and have not found any good info regarding a near factory look for the red and blue. I am doing a full rotisserie restomod and even though it is a restomod, I want it to look as close to factory as possible. I purchased several Testors paints and would prefer to use this due to availability.

Black: 1147
White: 1145
Red: 1103
Blue: 1111

The white and black will likely work, but the red and blue seem to "opaque".

Would appreciate any feedback or suggestions.
 

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PRISMACOLOR Art Markers. You can buy them individually by color at a Michael's store if you have one near you. Many colors available, just match. Same type of opaque tinctured look. You'd have to thin down any Testor's paint drastically to get the effect desired.
 

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If I am reading the OP question correctly, he does not want an opaque look, but a translucent look like the original emblems.

I believe that the correct look might be had using a Candy Red and Candy Blue Model Spray paint, that are usually sprayed over a silver or gold Base Coat. Just don't use the Base Coat. Testors used to have these, but don't know if they still do. If not, maybe someone else makes them.

Bob
 

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Anyone have the correct color numbers? And how they matched the orginal color?
I remember reading about the correct Testors paint for emblems in a Mustang magazine several years ago. I have the bottles at home, but those numbers look pretty close to my memory. And I found this thread here:
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/concours-forum/623520-paint-fender-emblems-gas-cap-steering-wheel-1965-a.html
Not able to find the original article on google at the moment tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update

Final Testor's paints used.

Fender Emblems
Blue 1539* on the Mustang badge
Red 1105* on the Mustang badge
White 1145 on the Mustang badge

Used a toothpick and would load up the point and place "dabs" of paint on the part to be painted. The combination of the capillary action of the paint and pushing the paint around with the toothpick worked well. Coverage was good and was able to paint in one coat. The metal groves in the Red 1105 and the Blue 1539 were visible and that was the look I was trying to achieve.


Gas Cap
Black 1147 on the Ford lettering and the perimeter ring.
Red 1103 on the Ford lettering
Blue 1539* on the Mustang badge
Red 1105* on the Mustang badge
White 1145 on the Mustang badge

Used the same painting technique on the gas cap. Used a paper towel to wipe off any bleed over on the lettering. Light pressure to avoid pulling the paint out of the lettering. After drying I used 0000 steel wool with light pressure to remove anything the paper towel left behind.

*The Red 1105 and the Blue 1539 are metallics.

Pic below is a side by side comparison of a before and after.

Hope this helps.
 

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I have to remember the toothpick trick next time I touch mine up. Little tiny brushes tend to be too big for some spots on those.
 

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White is just Testor's Regular White... Red and Blue are Testor's Model Master Translucent Red, and Translucent Blue.

The Red and Blue "*The Red 1105 and the Blue 1539 are metallics." look good though, but believe the Model Master Translucent Red, and Translucent Blue are more correct.

Wipe any excess residue wipe Ronson's Lighter Fluid....and a bunch of Paper Towels..

+1

"The white and black will likely work, but the red and blue seem to "opaque".

No really Opaque, but Translucent!...as you can see right through the paint..

:eek:)

Tony K.
 

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Update

Final Testor's paints used.

Fender Emblems
Blue 1539* on the Mustang badge
Red 1105* on the Mustang badge
White 1145 on the Mustang badge

Used a toothpick and would load up the point and place "dabs" of paint on the part to be painted. The combination of the capillary action of the paint and pushing the paint around with the toothpick worked well. Coverage was good and was able to paint in one coat. The metal groves in the Red 1105 and the Blue 1539 were visible and that was the look I was trying to achieve.


Gas Cap
Black 1147 on the Ford lettering and the perimeter ring.
Red 1103 on the Ford lettering
Blue 1539* on the Mustang badge
Red 1105* on the Mustang badge
White 1145 on the Mustang badge

Used the same painting technique on the gas cap. Used a paper towel to wipe off any bleed over on the lettering. Light pressure to avoid pulling the paint out of the lettering. After drying I used 0000 steel wool with light pressure to remove anything the paper towel left behind.

*The Red 1105 and the Blue 1539 are metallics.

Pic below is a side by side comparison of a before and after.

Hope this helps.
After i ran my horsey under the buffing wheel I decided they are too nice to use a re-pop

Would you have a pic of the gas cap so I can see the two different reds?
Are they supposed to be different?


Just gonna drop this pic from the other thread for easier contrast.
He used red #1103
 

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"In the model master paints what are the correct blue and reds?"

Again,

Testor's Model Master "Translucent Red" and "Translucent Blue".

They look the closest to the NOS Oriignal Ford Paint Originally used on the Emblems.

:eek:)

Tony K.
 

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Are there numbers that go with those?

I bought MM stop light red but it's a metallic (2724)
And MM ford engine blue (4661)
 

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Apparently Testors has altered the name a bit...Changing Translucent to Transparent...Interesting...Same stuff and stock#'s though... They seem to be playing with the name a bit over the years...but don't worry, It's the same stuff.

Red:

Can: #1605

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-Transparent-RED-CANDY-enamel-Spray-Paint-Can-3-oz-1605/362569910355

Bottle: #4630

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-Master-Acrylic-Paint-Transparent-Red-4630-1-2-fl-oz-NEW/312541499368

Blue:

Can: #1257

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-Model-Master-Transparent-Blue-Enamel-Spray-Paint-Can-3-oz-1257/352517458575

Bottle: #4658

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-Model-Master-Acrylic-paint-4658-Transparent-Blue/162391648487


This should help everyone some....

:eek:)

Tony K.
 

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Apparently Testors has altered the name a bit...Changing Translucent to Transparent...Interesting...Same stuff and stock#'s though... They seem to be playing with the name a bit over the years...but don't worry, It's the same stuff.

Red:

Can: #1605

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-Transparent-RED-CANDY-enamel-Spray-Paint-Can-3-oz-1605/362569910355

Bottle: #4630

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-Master-Acrylic-Paint-Transparent-Red-4630-1-2-fl-oz-NEW/312541499368

Blue:

Can: #1257

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-Model-Master-Transparent-Blue-Enamel-Spray-Paint-Can-3-oz-1257/352517458575

Bottle: #4658

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-Model-Master-Acrylic-paint-4658-Transparent-Blue/162391648487


This should help everyone some....

<img src="http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/images/smilies/blush.gif" border="0" alt="" title="blush" class="inlineimg" />)

Tony K.
Looks like I'll be buying new paint and repainting
 

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Pretty happy for 50 year touch ups. Used the toothpick, happy it laid down to show the grooves.
Based upon what I read on a few hobby forums I used enamels
1103 Red, 1111 Blue which come in Testors kit #9115X.
Experiment on a sad window crank

I see I need more detailing after zooming the pics


Sent from my K92 using Tapatalk
 
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