Engine and Trans Removal

1960 Views 20 Replies 14 Participants Last post by greenguy, Jul 21, 2015

greenguy

Discussion Starter · Jul 20, 2015 (Edited)

Picked up an engine hoist over the weekend and looking to pull the existing trans and motor next weekend. I'm not quite sure where to go for mounting locations. Heads? Intake Manifold? Exhaust bolt? What's the best and easiest?

I was going to pick up a hoist leveler for the job also thinking that would make life easier.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html
The existing motor has the carb and manifold installed and was planning on putting the new motor in with both installed as well (ideally). But most pictures I see on the net have the manifold off when using the leveler. I don't care so much about the existing motor but when the new one goes in that I've spent so much time and money building I'd rather there not be chain rubbing or pushing awkwardly on parts.

Is a lift plate and leveler an even better combo? Lastly I don't have springs on my hood hinges. Chances of me getting away without removing the hood? Aligning is a PITA

Thanks in advance

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

Chrisss31

· #2 · Jul 20, 2015

If there are no factory lifting rings on the engine, a plate bolted to the intake works well. Not so much on the way out, but when your putting the engine back in you'll appreciate the leveler!! As far as the hood goes, I wouldn't even try without taking it off.

JPIII

· #3 · Jul 20, 2015

I found it's best to take the engine & trans out separately. there are threaded holes in the heads (fore & aft) that are useful with a spreader.

. The whole set up goes in together. It's tight but doable.....not a one man job. I forgot to take a good pic.

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silverblueBP

· #4 · Jul 20, 2015

Get a lifting plate for the intake. Use the front hook opening and pull the engine by itself. Remove bell housing from trans and then drop the trans by itself. A lot less hassle and can be done by one person.

No need for a leveler.

Sent from my stupid phone

multi68stang

· #5 · Jul 20, 2015 (Edited)

I agree on removing the trans & motor separately. Drop the trans out of the bottom first then pull the motor from the top.

With the stock hood & hinges the only way you're going to get away without removing the hood is to install just the short block & reassemble the heads & intake in the car.
I removed my springs from my hinges & run a prop rod setup. Because of this I was able modified my hinges to allow the hood to open more & sit almost vertical, because of that with angling the motor a bit I can install my 390FE fully assembled with the bellhousing bolted up without removing the hood.

I usually bolt the chain to the heads & use one or two tie down straps to help keep the motor straight or angle it some.

Also make sure your engine hoist is long enough, I have read of people & personally experienced having HF engine hoists not being long enough to reach into the motor bay.

greenguy

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jul 20, 2015

THanks for the replies. Guess I'll pull them separate then and go with the manifold plate. Was going to pull the trans and have a tech give it a once over. No known issues with it. Maybe I'll just leave it in there then and only deal with it if there is a problem down the road. We'll see

silverblueBP

· #7 · Jul 20, 2015

greenguy said:
THanks for the replies. Guess I'll pull them separate then and go with the manifold plate. Was going to pull the trans and have a tech give it a once over. No known issues with it. Maybe I'll just leave it in there then and only deal with it if there is a problem down the road. We'll see

It's a lot easier to R&R the trans once the engine is out. Do it now (if affordable) and save yourself some grief!

Paul1958

· #8 · Jul 20, 2015

greenguy said:
THanks for the replies. Guess I'll pull them separate then and go with the manifold plate. Was going to pull the trans and have a tech give it a once over. No known issues with it. Maybe I'll just leave it in there then and only deal with it if there is a problem down the road. We'll see

Ive pulled/installed lots of engines/trans from lots of Mustangs. Always pulled them out and put them in in one piece. Thats how they were done on the assembly line and I think its easier that way. Also I always use the 3/8 exhaust manifold bolts and not the smaller 1/4 or 5/16 intake/carb bolts.

Respect everyones opinion though and whatever way you want is fine.

Good luck
Paul

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jdub

· #9 · Jul 20, 2015

I pulled the engine and trans as a unit with a leveler. Couldn't have been easier. Not sure why anyone would say to do them separately. That doesn't make any sense to me.

If you do separate them it is possible to sneak the engine past the hood. Seen it done. I just marked my hood before taking it off.

Hawthorne

· #10 · Jul 20, 2015

I just pulled my 289 with a lifting plate without removing the hood. I removed the transmission and left the bell housing on the engine.

G

· #11 · Jul 20, 2015

I will disagree about removing separately. It is MUCH easier to remove them as a unit. I like easier.

silverblueBP

· #12 · Jul 20, 2015

PetesPonies said:
I will disagree about removing separately. It is MUCH easier to remove them as a unit. I like easier.

That's the nice thing about this place...so many opinions and options. Having removed the engine and trans both ways, I would be 180* of your opinion

Then again, I'm always doing it by myself.

G

· #13 · Jul 20, 2015

I do it by myself too. I've removed countless engine/transmission combinations over the years. It's not even close as far as which is faster and/or easier.

agb_abq

· #14 · Jul 20, 2015

I've only done it once. Ever. After reading and assessing my own comfort level, I decided to pull them together, no hood, with a quality leveler attached to the heads themselves. No problems. That's a nervous rookie's point of view.

Jerry 10

· #15 · Jul 21, 2015

I always remove the hood. It makes the job so much easier since you don't have to be nearly as careful doing everything. As far as putting the hood back on correctly and in the right place where it came off, I take the painters tape and lay a strip of the tape all around the hinge plate where it bolts to the underside of the hood. I have also marked it with a scratch awl, but that cuts the paint whereas the tape doesn't. Good luck Jerry

greenguy

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jul 21, 2015

Aww man now I'm back to considering them as a pair. I've heard that lifting the rear of the car also aids in ease. Anyone else hear that?

LeeFred

· #17 · Jul 21, 2015

Pull and install with the transmission still bolted up to the engine. That is my preferred way of doing it. Without a leveler, I've hooked the chain up to the rearmost bolt on the exhaust on the driver's side, and then the front bolt on the exhaust on the passenger side. Remove the rocker arms that will be in the way of the chain and lift away. Definitely do it without the hood...it gets in the way.

Chaplin

· #18 · Jul 21, 2015

PetesPonies said:
I will disagree about removing separately. It is MUCH easier to remove them as a unit. I like easier.

This.

jonahdeich

· #19 · Jul 21, 2015

I would agree with everyone saying to remove them togethor provided that your ceiling is high enough.

GypsyR

· #20 · Jul 21, 2015

I never saw the point of pulling both unless I actually wanted the transmission out too.
Not long ago my '67 had a 5.0 and a T5 in it. I decided to swap the 5.0 for the 351W I actually intended to have in there. I pulled the engine without every getting under the car. Pulled it 100% from the top. Only used a floor jack to raise/hold the transmission in place. Didn't even jack the car up. I have to admit that other than a VW bus years ago I've never done another engine without having to crawl under the car. Beat THAT for easy.

Discovered later I forgot to install the two lower transmission dust cover screws which might have complicated things had they been in there.
After lining up my hood completely to my satisfaction I drilled an 1/8" hole through each hood hinge into the hood. Very hard to spot if you don't know they are there. When I put the hood back on I use an icepick to align the holes and done.

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

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