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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a couple cans of semi-gloss black for the engine bay. Semi-gloss black is getting hard to find. Now Im second guessing myself and thinking that the semi-gloss has to much gloss.

I painted the dash with Krylon Satin Black and it turned out really nice.

So now Im thinking the Satin Black is the way to go.

What would be more durable? Satin Black or Black with a Satin clear coat?
 

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I don't think a clear coat will help you much because it's just providing UV protection and shine.

I just rattle canned my engine bay with a semi gloss chassis paint (Bill Hirsch Chassis Black)....10 years ago. It still looks just as good today as it did then and hasn't budged. The gloss is going to come down to your personal preference. I like shiny things, so it wasn't too bad for me.
 

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I used Majic semi gloss enamel in my engine bay and underside. I like the fact that you can easily wipe it clean. It’s also easier to touch up a shiny color than a flat or satin color. It’s all personal choice.
 

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1965 Mustang, 302, C4 and 9 inch
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I used a semi gloss paint on a FJ40 20 years ago and it still shines as good as it did when I applied the paint. I got the paint from a body/paint supply house - it was expensive but well worth it.
 

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Is your engine in or out? I used Eastwood 2K Underhood black; 2K Aerospray Underhood Black Ceramic Paint – Eastwood on the underside of my hood.

They also have satin and another black. But you have to hold the can straight up to get good results. So if the engine is out this stuff is pretty durable.
 

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@bmcgc I love the satin look as well. Gloss does add durability but it just looks a little to shiny on a 60s engine bay to me.
 

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1966 Mustang GT 4sp Nightmist Blue
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I know a few guys on this forum swear by SEM semi gloss and thats what I plan on using.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The engine along with everything else is out.
 

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Krylon Semi-Flat Black is what you want.
 

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If you go the Krylon route, make sure you purchase the 1613 "Industrial" semi-flat black. I used it and it has performed extremely well. I was forced to strip and paint with the engine in place, so I had limited choices. Your prep work will determine how well your paint holds up.
 

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If the engine bay is empty, you can use SPI black epoxy.
It's pretty close to the original paint, and it's very tough.
If the engine is still in the engine bay, spray bombs, or a touch up gun are your best bet.
 

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SEM Hot Rod black. Perfect. Pardon the first pic, engine bay is a bit dusty. But the shot when the car is on the body cart is about 2-3 days after shooting the SEM.
760279
760280
 

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1966 GT Fastback, 289, TKO 5-spd, EFI, 4-discs, TCP coilovers
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I know a few guys on this forum swear by SEM semi gloss and thats what I plan on using.

Chris
No, no - don't do it - too shiny!! Eastwood makes a product called "Underhood Matte Black" that is close to the original factory gloss level. I thought you said you were trying to maintain "factory-ness" as much as possible.
 

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No, no - don't do it - too shiny!! Eastwood makes a product called "Underhood Matte Black" that is close to the original factory gloss level. I thought you said you were trying to maintain "factory-ness" as much as possible.
I am, thank you! I thought I heard that’s a good match. Glad to be corrected :)

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #17
nr, that is a work of art. Despite the 40+ hours I have spent on prep work, mine is nowhere near that level of quality.

Since getting the car back from metal work, Im going to put another 8-ish hours of prep under the hood and call it good.

I need to smooth out the area where the battery apron was patched and grind some welds where the radiator support was repaired. Im not going to put any filler in those areas so whatever doesnt grind or sand out will just be there. Once everything is in place, those areas will not be visible anyway.

My next area to tackle will be the front wheel well area. Im going to wire wheel that down and paint it before I paint the engine bay. Im also doing the Shelby mod, installing new springs and 90° zerks.
 

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PPG DP90LF works fantastic and looks right. Bonus: It is resistant to most chemicals and does not scratch or chip easily.
760313
 
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Thanks bmcgc. I have a lot of time in this car. As a matter of fact I just started a late build thread with the basics. I fretted over the engine bay paint for awhile until I settled on SEM Hot Rod black. No regrets.
 

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"If you go the Krylon route, make sure you purchase the 1613 "Industrial" semi-flat black. " +1

It's the closest available in Rattlecan that you can buy today that's closest to what Ford Originally used.. Decades proven too..

SEM is good stuff too, but not as close as the Krylon Industrial 1613.....

Any closer to OEM. and You'd have to use a Custom mix from a spray gun..

:eek:)

Tony K.
 
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