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Engine Bay Paint

9K views 24 replies 18 participants last post by  jdub 
#1 ·
I bought a couple cans of semi-gloss black for the engine bay. Semi-gloss black is getting hard to find. Now Im second guessing myself and thinking that the semi-gloss has to much gloss.

I painted the dash with Krylon Satin Black and it turned out really nice.

So now Im thinking the Satin Black is the way to go.

What would be more durable? Satin Black or Black with a Satin clear coat?
 
#2 ·
I don't think a clear coat will help you much because it's just providing UV protection and shine.

I just rattle canned my engine bay with a semi gloss chassis paint (Bill Hirsch Chassis Black)....10 years ago. It still looks just as good today as it did then and hasn't budged. The gloss is going to come down to your personal preference. I like shiny things, so it wasn't too bad for me.
 
#3 ·
I used Majic semi gloss enamel in my engine bay and underside. I like the fact that you can easily wipe it clean. It’s also easier to touch up a shiny color than a flat or satin color. It’s all personal choice.
 
#5 ·
Is your engine in or out? I used Eastwood 2K Underhood black; 2K Aerospray Underhood Black Ceramic Paint – Eastwood on the underside of my hood.

They also have satin and another black. But you have to hold the can straight up to get good results. So if the engine is out this stuff is pretty durable.
 
#7 ·
I know a few guys on this forum swear by SEM semi gloss and thats what I plan on using.

Chris
 
#11 ·
If you go the Krylon route, make sure you purchase the 1613 "Industrial" semi-flat black. I used it and it has performed extremely well. I was forced to strip and paint with the engine in place, so I had limited choices. Your prep work will determine how well your paint holds up.
 
#17 ·
nr, that is a work of art. Despite the 40+ hours I have spent on prep work, mine is nowhere near that level of quality.

Since getting the car back from metal work, Im going to put another 8-ish hours of prep under the hood and call it good.

I need to smooth out the area where the battery apron was patched and grind some welds where the radiator support was repaired. Im not going to put any filler in those areas so whatever doesnt grind or sand out will just be there. Once everything is in place, those areas will not be visible anyway.

My next area to tackle will be the front wheel well area. Im going to wire wheel that down and paint it before I paint the engine bay. Im also doing the Shelby mod, installing new springs and 90° zerks.
 
#19 ·
Thanks bmcgc. I have a lot of time in this car. As a matter of fact I just started a late build thread with the basics. I fretted over the engine bay paint for awhile until I settled on SEM Hot Rod black. No regrets.
 
#20 ·
"If you go the Krylon route, make sure you purchase the 1613 "Industrial" semi-flat black. " +1

It's the closest available in Rattlecan that you can buy today that's closest to what Ford Originally used.. Decades proven too..

SEM is good stuff too, but not as close as the Krylon Industrial 1613.....

Any closer to OEM. and You'd have to use a Custom mix from a spray gun..

:eek:)

Tony K.
 
#21 ·
I bought 2 cans of the 1613 a few weeks ago, its hard to find.
 
#22 ·
The 1613 changed formulas about 10-12 years ago. Is teh new 1613 as close a match as the old 1613?

I really like the SEM HotRod black, to bad it doesnt come in a rattlecan. I need a couple new hoses and a drier anyway, its just another system to put together while Im in the middle of a bunch of others.
 
#23 ·
The 1613 changed formulas about 10-12 years ago. Is teh new 1613 as close a match as the old 1613?
An MCA judge over at Concours Mustang says 1613 is what they still use as the concurs reference. If you have trouble finding it locally you can get it at Zoro online. Zoro is the consumer/small business outlet of Grainger. I’m lucky there are 5-6 places to get industrial Krylon locally.
 
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