[Guest]

I have recently taken everything out of the engine compartment of a 68 mustang. I am going to sand the firewall, inner fenders, etc. and then repaint the metal. What are the general recommendations for aerosol paints? Will a regular spray can primer work? How do you closely match the chassis black color? Thanks.

Oh my car is a 68 convertible with a C code 289. It is candyapple red with dark red interior (standard). C4 Automatic. Styled Wheels and a black top. My favorite part about the car is the turn signals indented in the hood.

 

[beechkid]

It can work well, what I did was take a trip to my local auto paint supply store (after I had everything ready to paint), they mixed up Eurathane paint for me with hardener in a spray can and it worked excellent. Total cost about $20.

Jeff
Member: Flatheads ain't so bad association
Never trust an over 40 Chevy owner association (They have to cheat to win)

 

[Art]

Eastwood has an aerosol product called Underhood Black, also comes in quart cans.
http://www.eastwoodcompany.com
1-800-345-1178

Required tools for operating a Vintage Mustang:
1. Duct Tape
2. J.B. Weld
3. B.F.H. (Big Fat Hammer)
4. VINTAGE MUSTANG FORUMS II
View Album Here: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1616948&a=12352157

 

[jntmjt1]

You might want to be careful using the Eastwood Underhood Black. I used it on my 65 coupe, and it looked super. I have no arguement about that. But... my car is a daily driver, and it didn't endure very well. After about six months, it was faded and splotched up pretty bad.

Like I said, I'm not knocking the product; I'd just be careful with it depending on your application. For a car not driven very often, I'd recommend it.

Good luck,
John Thomas

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=525545&a=7533002&p=26667243.jpg
65 coupe pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=3848066
66 conv pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=7533002

 

[Art]

PPG makes an enamel that is about perfect in flattness but must be sprayed on with a gun... Don't have the code handy but the name is Ford Accent Black... used it many times with outstanding results.
The spray-bomb stuff, I agree... Won't hold up like acrilyc enamel.

Required tools for operating a Vintage Mustang:
1. Duct Tape
2. J.B. Weld
3. B.F.H. (Big Fat Hammer)
4. VINTAGE MUSTANG FORUMS II
View Album Here: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1616948&a=12352157

 

[mrgem]

I'm not sure I'd bother to prime before painting the engine compartment, Ford didn't. The only reason for doing so might be to avoid paint incompatibility between the old and new finishes - then you might want to use a 'primer-sealer'-style paint first.

The suggestion about having epoxy paint mixed up is a good one, since this part of the car is regularly assaulted by chemicals, heat, and the elements.

What I finally decided to do was to use use garden-variety Krylon semi-flat black, #1613. While some argue that it is a little too flat for the application, I've read that some pro restorers use it for this purpose. It is cheap, readily available, and a pretty high-quality finish.

Best of all, when I encounter the invariable scrapes and chips, a touch up is a snap.

Just my $.02...

Glenn Morgan 66 GT Fastback 351w+toploader

 

[SHELBY]

I have used Krylon semi flat black #1613 on all my cars, lasts well, can be touched up easily when the need arises.

68 GT500
68 1/2 CJ Coupe

MCA# 18519