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Discussion Starter #1
I'm no where near the stage of needing a motor for the mustang yet, BUT of course been considering different choices. Easy choice was just to buy a crate engine drop it in and be done with it. Want to stay carb'd for a number of reasons so EFI is ruled out. Recently I've picked up the rear end (9inch) and tranny (rebuilt t-5 from a '93) and talking with the individual I got the T5 from, he has a friend with a '89 5.0. The best part of this is he wants 100.00 for the engine. Has intakes, factory exhaust manifolds, distributor, chrome oil pan, SVO roller rockers, E7 heads.
Is it worth picking this up for the 100.00 and change it over to Carb??? The little searching I've done, it seems, I take off the EFI stuff, get a manifold/carb, new distributor (with correct gear), fuel pump, and throttle linkage.

So is that the basics of doing this??? Also is there an advantage to using this year 5.0 (roller block etc) or does it not matter, just use any year 5.0, and easier to get a carbed year???

Really not close to needing an engine yet, but for 100.00 for the base platform, if it works, why not....
 

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I am in the process of doing this with a '94 engine (conversion to carb). With the tranny, did you get the bellhousing?

$100 isn't bad, especially since it is pretty complete. You may want to consider rebuilding the engine (an almost 20 year old engine will have some wear around the rings). A valve job on the heads is also a good idea.

In addition to the items you mentioned, the oil pan will have to change to a front sump, to clear the steering linkage and crossmember. This will require the acquisition and relocation of a new dip stick, which may also require the acquisition of a correct timing cover and water pump. You will probably also need to change the exhaust manifolds to clear your steering gear box.

There have been a few discussions recently about roller vs flat tappet cams. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, with no clear winners. I am planning to keep my '94 block roller (probably start with using the '94 cam and upgrade the cam, carb and heads when money becomes available).

Hope this helps in your decision.

MustangChuck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I figured as much on the oil pan and the timing cover and water pump.

Was just curious on the internals if there was a plus or minus on the roller blocks. Guess that pretty much answers the question :)

did not get the bellhousing for the t5, but figure I'll get one somewhere. As the tranny was newly rebuilt by a place local, and upgraded internals, etc...I figured it wasn't a bad deal at 300.00
 

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$100 isn't bad for a complete 5.0, especially considering that new bare blocks are currently going for $500 at Summit. The age of the engine isn't as important as the miles and the care the engine had. The '89 has the best of what was offered on that generation 5.0; forged pistons, low tension rings, and the E7 heads which are an improvement over earlier castings although not by much. '91-newer has hyper pistons, pre-'87 had cast pistons, standard rings, and crappy heads, pre-'85 had non-roller cam blocks, so '89 production is right in the middle of when the best 5.0 engines were produced. If you can do a compression test on the cylinders to check ring seal you might find the engine doesn't need a rebuild. This generation 5.0 often goes over 200k miles with proper oil changes. For a cheap motor just to get the package together it's a good starting point, and you can swap heads and the cam later on for a performance boost.
 

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Rickmaan said:
If you can do a compression test on the cylinders to check ring seal you might find the engine doesn't need a rebuild. This generation 5.0 often goes over 200k miles with proper oil changes.
Agreed. A friend has over 225K miles on an '89 5.0L LX w/o a rebuild--another benefit of EFI.
 

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A $100 for the engine? How much for the entire car? It could be an EFI donor car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
He doesn't have the car.....just the engine. He got it from a friend for a project, but he plays mostly with 2.3 turbo's, and wants to get rid of the 5.0. So I'm sure for 100.00 it is what it is...but it's a start...
 

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I may have available the oil pan (a nice 9qt item, with oil pump and pickup), the timing cover, water pump and dip stick. I have a '68 engine in my '69 now that was trashed during Katrina. (If I had spent some time draining the water/oil and turning it by hand within the first month, maybe it would have survived.) The engine is in the process of coming out (but will probably be another couple of months before I actually remove it from the engine bay). If you are interested, let me know. I will warn you, though, my progress is slower than molasses in Russia on New Year's eve.

MustangChuck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well let me know, we'll see where I'm at when the molasses thaws out...HAHA....

question though, from reading around, I can go with the old style timing chain cover, and run the v groove pulleys. Though I can also choose to stay with the serpentine system. In order to do that, I keep the new timing chain cover, and reverse rotation water pump??? Question I have is, I've also been seeing mention of the cover having a mech. fuel pump boss, and those in the EFT do not. Can one just go with the new style cover and forget about a mech. pump, use electric or ??? Just what are the options there...


Actually I was just searching around, seems there's a replacement cover that has the fuel pump ecentric, dip stick hole, and will accept standard or reverse rotation water pump....would that be what would work?
 

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22 years ago Ford got away from carbs and went EFI. You mentioned you have your reasons for going back to a carb...many guys on this board are going EFI, and their reasons are quite sound: cold start manners, drivability across the RPM band, gas mileage, and engine/oil life. If you get past the learning curve and the looks, you will never regret EFI. Since you even have most of the parts, give it some more thought.
 

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crzipilot said:
Well let me know, we'll see where I'm at when the molasses thaws out...HAHA....

question though, from reading around, I can go with the old style timing chain cover, and run the v groove pulleys. Though I can also choose to stay with the serpentine system. In order to do that, I keep the new timing chain cover, and reverse rotation water pump??? Question I have is, I've also been seeing mention of the cover having a mech. fuel pump boss, and those in the EFT do not. Can one just go with the new style cover and forget about a mech. pump, use electric or ??? Just what are the options there...


Actually I was just searching around, seems there's a replacement cover that has the fuel pump ecentric, dip stick hole, and will accept standard or reverse rotation water pump....would that be what would work?
Pre-1990 or so the 5.0HO timing covers have the provisions for both a mech pump and front mount dipstick, just drill them out...
 

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gsxrken said:
22 years ago Ford got away from carbs and went EFI. You mentioned you have your reasons for going back to a carb...many guys on this board are going EFI, and their reasons are quite sound: cold start manners, drivability across the RPM band, gas mileage, and engine/oil life. If you get past the learning curve and the looks, you will never regret EFI. Since you even have most of the parts, give it some more thought.
Those are good reasons to go EFI. I've had an EFI-powered Mustang for nearly 8 years. In the beginning, ya it was great. Now age is setting in and the hassle and expense of hunting down and replacing tons of sensors is getting to me. With a carb, you only have to worry about the carb. When it goes bad, rebuild or replace. And, rebuilding isn't that hard (and the kits can be had for as little as $35).

The biggest effect I've seen on gas milage is gear ratios. My '69 has a T-10 with a 3.20 rear and pulls around 3000 RPMS at 70. It got 13 mpg. My '95 has an AODE with a 3.27 rear and pulls around 2000 RPMS at 70. It gets 19-20 mpg normal (city/commute) driving.

I guess it really depends on what you plan to do with it and how often you plan to drive it. The learning curve doesn't bother me. It's the expense of setup and maintenance.

Just my opinions.
MustangChuck
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm sorta with Mustang Chuck, Had a '95 GT, and that thing drove me crazy. This is a project with my 14 yr old son (have 2-3 years to get it done) and just want to have a mix of old-school, and new in this. Have him build up the basics, and then he can graduate to all the electronic crap.

A new development today though. The guy I'm getting the transmission from, called and he's cleaning out his garage (in process of moving) He told me he has a '86 motor I can take with me, obviously needs to be gone through. So with that, I imagine that would be just as good as the '89. Just as good, as long as I was going to go through both and change out internals. Heads/Cam/Pistions etc etc etc...so just plan on going ahead and building the engine up.

On the same note, he said he has a '69 351 block I could have too (for a few bucks) , don't really want to go the 351 route, but what would that be worth?? He says it has sat for awhile and will need to be bored, but that it was cleaned up and such before he let it sit.
 

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crzipilot said:
DaveSanborn said:
either that, or run an electric fuel pump...

Any advantage/disadvantage going with mechanical or electric???
The electric pump setup won't be simple or cheap. A mechanical fuel pump is idiot simple and cheap. :) Plus, it'll hook up just as a '65 289 would.
 

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gotstang said:
The electric pump setup won't be simple or cheap. A mechanical fuel pump is idiot simple and cheap. :) Plus, it'll hook up just as a '65 289 would.
Well, I was turned on to this fuel pump. It is pretty close to simple and cheap, just a little worried that it is too cheap. But, at that price, buy two and keep a spare in the trunk.

MustangChuck
 
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