[thespazardman]

Ok, I just yanked my 289/C4 today, and I'm ready to start fixing up the engine compartment. My question: What tool(s) do you people use to prep the engine compartment for paint? I fiddled with my pneumatic sander, but all the crevices, etc are impossible to get to, and this could take YEARS and probably $200 in sandpaper. Any thoughts? I don't have access to a sand blaster either

Here's a pic of my engine compartment, you can see that I smoothed out a small part of the passenger side shock tower:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1576072&a=11982976&p=43170710.jpg

I know it's dirty "ass-all-bloody-hell", but I'm working on it

Thespazardman

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by thespazardman on 03/08/01 10:15 PM (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[janschutz]

you might try a drill with a wire brush attachment to remove the crud. Then go over it with scoth brite and cleaner. Tackle rust with sand paper and rust remover.

John L. Anschutz
Allen, TX
68 Diamond Blue Coupe - 302
68 Acapulco Blue Coupe - I6 - 200
http://www.dallas.net/~jjmsansc/parts/Stangs.jpg

 

[Guest]

You may want to try 'Engine Bright'. I think it's made by GUNK. It's the only product I've found that will work on cold parts. Spray it on, then brush with a heavy bristle brush. You may need a few sizes to get into the tight areas. Then... blast several pounds of that crap away with a hot power washer.

68 California Special- Acapulco Blue- Will someone please sell me one Marchal fog lamp lense?

 

[Torquewrench]

Sorry, nothing compares to a sandblaster for this job. Of course they can make quite a mess in the process. I've done one car without the blaster and one with. But luckily the one I did by hand was in good shape. Are you sure you couldn't rent one somewhere? Pressurized blaster are best, but hey you can do a pretty good job with a siphon blaster and they are pretty darn cheap.

A funny thing I found out when doing my bay with a blaster. It leaves a slightly rough surface and I was treating my bare metal with phosphoric acid and then cleaning it off with water and then drying it. Well the rough surface would grab lint off of any rag or paper towel I used. So when I finally painted I ended up with some lint and stuff in the paint. No real problem, I'll just wet sand behind it and shoot some more.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1575122&a=11977248&p=43129084.jpg
66 C-code convertible
66 C-code coupe
65 GTO hardtop
76 Nova hatchback

 

[autoxsteve]

Elbowgrease and a couple of BOXES of 220 grit wet/dry.

Keep it up, you're behind me in this department.



Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

 

[BillScott]

if you are not doing a show car you can triple clean with degreaser and high pressure water and simply spray can with something like Eastwoods "Under Hood Black". i did mine and it looks very nice - NOT SHOW. Neutralize any rust that you can not brush off with something like Eastwoods Coreloss before paint.

 

[Guest]

One note on the Engine Bright stuff - wear gloves when using it. I hate wearing gloves when working on cars, but I'm telling you, this stuff tears up your hands. I used it for about 1/2 hour one day, and washed my hands thouroughly afterwards, and my hands still broke out and peeled for about 2 weeks - no joke.

-Brian