[HoosierBuddy]

Guys,

I've completed everything on my engine now and it is ready to reinstall once the engine bay work is complete.

Two simple questons:

1. When I look into my t-stat housing and see my theromostat, should I be looking at the spring or the other side (with the housing on the engine, upper radiator hose disconnected)?

2. Distributor reinstalation question. I took the distributor back out last night. I installed the left v/c. Put in 5 quarts of 10W40. Then I used my oil pump primer on my Makita spinning CCW. I ran the drill a while, then turned the engine over 1/4 turn, then ran it a while, over and over until I'd spun the engine 5 or 6 times. Then, I watched the intake valve. Once it opened and then closed, I turned the crank CW (looking from the front) until the TDC mark matched the pointer on the timing cover. Then I installed the right v/c (as the oil was starting to make a mess). Then I kept on spinning the crank 1/4 turn at a time while running the oil pump until I made EXACTLY two more revolutions. Then I installed the distributor such that the electrode on the rotor is just beginning to come under the #1 terminal. Is that right?

If those two items are OK, then I'm stuck waiting on an order from Eastwood, and then it will be on to sheet metal repairs in the engine bay. That'll give me about 3 evenings to go on "SWMBO Patrol" and get all that crappy house stuff out of the way so I can have more time to work on the car. I'm pushing the car project as hard as I can, because we are expecting the second week of April. That's going to make it A LOT tougher to spend 3 or 4 hours a night in the barn. I suppose many of you can relate /forums/images/icons/wink.gif.

Phil


'65 Convertible (with many mods.)
http://www.blueriver.net/~finite/Pony.htm

 

[camachinist]

1. The pill and spring should be facing inside the intake manifold.....that's where the hot water is...

2. You don't need to turn the engine over while pre-lubing it...the pressure of the oil forces it into the clearances.....and, your cam lobes are rubbing away on the lifters while doing this with only the cam lube you put on to protect them....other than manually turning the engine to set the valves before firing, I never turn the engine over at all until it's ready to fire.
Intake valve will close just after BDC on the compression stroke...once you see it close, turn to the TDC mark and spin both pushrods...if they're easily turned, your in the right spot. Distributor rotor should be pointing at #1 cap post terminal. If you want to pre-time the car, you can do so with a timing light by manually turning the engine over one time with the ignition on.....6-8 degrees BTDC should be sufficient...

One reminder; if possible, try to have a knowledgeable buddy around when you fire the engine and I recommend doing it outside if possible with a fire extinguisher around....
Safety and experience are always helpful when bringing a new beast to life...*G*

Things happen really fast when firing a fresh engine....

Have fun!

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG

 

[66benchcoupe]

1. Pointy side to the front and spring to the rear of the motor. Push the thermostat open before you put it in and carefully place an asprin or 2 in there so it's held open. This will allow water to fill the block so you won't get any hot spots from air trapped in there. The asprins will dissolve away and then the thermostat will function normally.

2. TDC is at the end of the compression stroke. You can hold your finger over the plug hole and feel it. Or you can watch the rockers as you turn the crank. In between the intake valve closing and the exhaust opening is TDC. Remember to turn the crank counter-clockwise when you do this.

Good luck!

Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
robert94928 on Yahoo Messenger

 

[camachinist]

Read 66benchcoupe's reply here....he replied to my post instead of yours...

Have fun!

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG

 

[66benchcoupe]

I guess it would matter if he was having replies emailed to him.

Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
robert94928 on Yahoo Messenger

 

[whisperer]

Hey Pat, I'm sure this will work fine on a SBF stock but I've got another theory. I made a new post to explain. It's REALY long but I'd like to get feedback on this. the new post is at <http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/forums/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=forum&Number=51095&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5>

Hal
Love hard, drive fast, wear your seat belt.

PS, that's my 'bird...... My Mustang is too ugly to take pictures of yet........*G*.

http://www.teleport.com/~cosa/bird2.jpg

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Thanks for all the advice. I 2x checked the t-stat and I got it right. I was having trouble matching up what I did to the advice on insuring TDC, so I just pulled the #1 spark plug and made sure the piston was up (it was). Good idea on the fire extinguisher. I did actually pressure test my new fuel line last night. I couldn't check the flare at the carb fitting though. I had to unhook it there to put a plug on. I checked all the fittings and the flares with soapy water with 10 psi air. No leaks.

I think I'll do you one better on the fire extinquisher. I think I'll leave the hood off until I get the engine going /forums/images/icons/wink.gif.

Phil

'65 Convertible (with many mods.)
http://www.blueriver.net/~finite/Pony.htm