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Discussion Starter #1
It's warming up in Texas and I need to try and fix the ever present overheating problem in my '66. And with the decent coverage of cooling in the April 2001 issue of Mustangs & Fords I have an Idea of what I want to do.

Last year it was bad, I found a broken thermostat and collapsed lower hose, fixing these helped a lot! But it still would overheat on warm days after a lengthy drive. BTW it does have a 3 row radiatior and new cap.

My planned course of action:
1) replace water pump with high flow Edelbrock or Weind.
2) add fan shroud.
3) flush and clean entire system.

Has anyone used either one of these water pumps? What has been your experience?

Also, who has added a fan shroud to a car missing one? Has it made a difference? Which fan shrould did you use? Where did you get it? I've seen several offered by several vendors, some plastic and some metal.


Jason
Formerly Bluestangcom
"Got gas?"
Vintage Burgundy'66 Conv. 289 & C4. GT-ized
Strawberry/Silver '91GT
Rust/Red/Turquoise '67 coupe - Parting Out
Guards Red 2000 Porsche Boxster

http://www.bluestang.com
 

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I'd suggest looking at the Flowkooler water pump or a Milodon Hi-Volume (not their standard volume). They are about half the money. I have the Flowkooler with NO problems.

http://www.packeton.com/flowkooler/

Also, invest the $8 for a Mr Gasket thermostat. They are a hi-volume performance item with much larger openings than a standard stat.

My 1965 Restomod Shelby Clone
http://www.hometown.aol.com/ihatecar24/clone65.jpg<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by GT350Clone on 03/15/01 09:17 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

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I have always had an overheating problem with my 66 Convertible. Even short trips would run hot.
I talked with a GM Auto Engineer (Gasp), who told me that the basic problem is that the 289 block is too light and doesn't transfer heat effeciently.

This is what he told me to do, and it worked. I no longer overheat, or even run warm for that matter!!!
1) Go to a good radiator shop and have your motor flushed.
2) If your radiator has ANY blockage, get it cleaned at the same time. Don't forget your heater core. Either replace it, or have the radiator shop flush it VERY well.
3) Install a Gano filter in the upper radiator hose to catch "chunks" from the old block going into the radiator. I have to clean that filter every month - that's how much crap was going into my radiator. Your radiator shop should sell it - If not, call other shops - someone will have one.
4) Install a good high-volumn water pump
5) Install a good thermostat - not a $3.99 one from Kragen.
6) Verify that your timing is correct, and that your vaccuum advance is working correctly. If not you WILL overheat and nothing else will fix that. A good automotive shop (performance shop) can test your distributor's advance. I bought a new one and installed it, rather than bothering with testing mine.
7) Get rid of the Flex Fan and reinstall the original 5-blade fan. It's not as pretty, but it was designed to move the correct amount of air to your engine. A Flex fan does not move much air - but they sure look good :)
8) Install new anti-freeze, and use some "water wetter" if you like - it helps with heat transfer.

This whole deal cost me $300 and was done over a weekend - best money I ever spent on the car. I also have a 4-row radiator, but your 3 row should work just fine.
 
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I had heard that there might be problems with the Edelbrock pumps being to efficient for the old cars

I put in a new 3 row rad last summer(that worked). I had installed a fan schroud that was a repro of the original (metal from Dallas Mustang), which is not very thick, anyway after it got pushed through my new Rad, I ripped it off. If you really think you need one, go with one of the plastic 3 or 4 inch ones.
You can also try Water Wetter, I have some, but have not used it yet. It is suppose to drop water temp. (10+ degrees I think).


TJ - Highland Village, TX (DFW area)

66 coupe 302 2v c4 -daily driver
94 GT vert -SWMBO's
93 Aerostar - hauling stuff
50 Mercury Pickup - waiting to be restored, stored back home
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You said the fan shroud got pushed through the rad? Was it just too thin? I'll consider a plastic one, just don't like the look.

Jason
Formerly Bluestangcom
"Got gas?"
Vintage Burgundy'66 Conv. 289 & C4. GT-ized
Strawberry/Silver '91GT
Rust/Red/Turquoise '67 coupe - Parting Out
Guards Red 2000 Porsche Boxster

http://www.bluestang.com
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good advice. I never buy cheap thermostats or hoses. A Gano filter would be a great idea. I think I will end up going through the entire cooling system this time around.


Jason
Formerly Bluestangcom
"Got gas?"
Vintage Burgundy'66 Conv. 289 & C4. GT-ized
Strawberry/Silver '91GT
Rust/Red/Turquoise '67 coupe - Parting Out
Guards Red 2000 Porsche Boxster

http://www.bluestang.com
 
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My shroud was the thin metal one. It was tight clearance to the bottom of the fan. After a couple of weeks, I installed an export brace. I thought that moved things a little and when I started it, the fan hit the schroud, which poked a hole in the Rad. Now in hindsight, I know both of my motor mounts were broken and that is why things shifted a bit. Anyway, the stang has been fine without the Shroud.

TJ - Highland Village, TX (DFW area)

66 coupe 302 2v c4 -daily driver
94 GT vert -SWMBO's
93 Aerostar - hauling stuff
50 Mercury Pickup - waiting to be restored, stored back home
 

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Milodon and Flowkooler (www.flowkooler.com) also make a 'high capacity' water pump. That is, it flows more at lower speeds (like idle). Flowkooler is one of the few that actually advertises flow rates. Seems to me like the one to get.

You may also want to consider installing an electric fan. I purchased one from Hot Rod Air and like it. Install was very easy.



Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1571478&a=11942550&p=43703435.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
which would you recommend the aluminum or Cast Iron?

Jason
Formerly Bluestangcom
"Got gas?"
Vintage Burgundy'66 Conv. 289 & C4. GT-ized
Strawberry/Silver '91GT
Rust/Red/Turquoise '67 coupe - Parting Out
Guards Red 2000 Porsche Boxster

http://www.bluestang.com
 

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When I bought my C code 67 it did not have a shroud. I added a plastic one about 10 years ago. It made a huge difference. Sorry don't remember where I got it.

67 Sprots Sprint, Convert. Original C code, now 293 ci with Holley 450 and 295,000 miles
(image)http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1575962&a=11982331&p=43165927.jpg(/image)
 
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