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Discussion Starter #1
Need suggestions about what might be making tapping/knocking noise behind water pump area on 1965 Ford 6 cyl. I thought it was water pump - wasn't. Doesn't seem to be coming from pan area - just behind and under water pump. There is a build up of rust in the water jackets but not sure what sound is. Really would appreciate some suggestions of what I can check. I am no expert but can check a few things. Otherwise engine runs ok. Engine is not the smoothest I have seen nor very powerful. Please post back to the thread or even email me if you'd like at [email protected] Thanks in advance.
 

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I never worked on one but maybe it's the timing gear/chain that's making the noise.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I HAVE A '65 WITH A 302 THAT JUST STARTED DOING THE SAME THING. NOT SURE EITHER WHAT IT COULD BE. IF YOU FIND OUT LET ME KNOW...GOOD LUCK!!
 

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It could be several things:

1) Exhaust leak. Check all of your exhaust bolts, they may have loosen up over time.

2) If you have adjustable rockers (you shouldn't if the engine is stock, but you never know anymore) you make be out of adjustment. Even you don't have adjustable rockers, they could still be out of whack.

Those are my first two guesses.

Slade
 
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Discussion Starter #5
The knocking seems to be behind or just below the water pump area. It is not up high on the passenger side (exhaust manifold) nor up under the valve cover. It seems to be right around the water pump. Is there a timing chain cover there somewhere? Maybe the timing chain gears or chain are about ready to go... I dunno. I don't ever remember seein' a timing cover. Where's the timing cover at?
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe it is the timing chain or gear(s). Not exactly sure where these are ... I mean, when I changed the water pump I didn't remember seeing the cover plate. Must be right there somewhere!
 

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Maybe it is the timing chain or gear(s). Not exactly sure where these are ... I mean, when I changed the water pump I didn't remember seeing the cover plate. Must be right there somewhere!
Your Timing Chain is right behind the water pump. What you removed your water pump from is the timing chain/gear cover. . .it has the water inlets on it that are typically rusted/corroded & the opening for the mechanical fuel pump on it.
It would definately be worth checking to see if your chain is stretched very much, or damaged. If the timing chain is ok. . .I personally might think something internal might be suspect. I would then drain the oil & drop your pan & take a
close look to see if everything is still intact. Get a bright shop light up under the car with you & turn the engine by hand {grabbing onto the pulley bolted on the crankshaft. You may need a socket wrench for this on the big bolt in the center.}
Watch to see if anything is broken, you may want to do the same with the valve covers off {go ahead & put your pan back on & fill the engine with oil back to capacity. take your wire between the ignition coil & the distributor off & have a
friend bump the starter by quickly turning the key & then letting off. . .see if anything looks jacked up there either. . .}. Anyhow, I hope you & the guy with the 302 {sorry I forgot your screenname} with the same problems get things fixed soon. Take Care.-Chris
 

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1 more thing, you may also. . .if everything else checks out. . .check out your mechanical fuel pump. . .if you have a stethescope {sp?} . . .the kind you can get from an auto part store. . .
you can put it on parts of the engine & listen to it. Also, exept for when you need to bump the starter or when you actually have the engine running. . .disconnect your battery. :: -Chris
 

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Observe, with timing light, the consistency of ignition timing over a varied rpm range.

If OK, remove fuel pump, examine and also examine fuel pump eccentric bolted to camshaft (through pump mounting hole) for looseness.

Get back to us...
 

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The timing chain cover is immediately below the water pump you just replaced. The cover extends down from the base of the water pump to the pan. Front pan bolts actually screw into the base of the timing cover.

Important: If you remove the timing cover without dropping the pan, it is a very touchy operation to get the crankshaft seal centered when replacing the cover. This can be done, but centering the seal is the main goal, to prevent an oil leak. Always center the seal BEFORE tightening any bolts on the cover.

I doubt if the noise is coming from the fuel pump, as it's a looooong way from where you have determined the noise is coming from. Then again, the sound does travel through the metal, and sometimes it's hard to tell exactly where it's coming from. I've never used a stethescope, but have used a broom handle pressed to my ear.

Is the noise steady? Or, does it come and go? Does it do it at all engine speeds? Could be a loose link on the chain, or if it's loose enough, it could be flopping enough to hit the cover. Check the slop in the chain by removing the distributor cap and observing the rotor as you move the engine from one direction to the other with a socket and breaker bar on the bolt holding the harmonic balancer on. If you move the crankshaft back and forth with a significant lag in rotor movement, you have a lot of slack in the timing chain or distributor drive gears.

Good Luck!
 
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