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Ok, real noob question. I'm pulling my 289 out and this will be the first engine pull I've ever done. My cousin has done this a thousand times and he is going to help me. Its a bucket list thing, rebuild an engine! But I have a few dumb questions. I've already pulled the PS pump and bracket, AC compressor and bracket, and alternator. Disconnected all the wiring and throttle linkage. I know I have drain all the coolant and trans fluid ( the trans is coming out also). I'm gonna pull the radiator, and fan. Any other helpful hints?

I'm going to be doing this with the car on jack stands. Should I pull motor and trans as a unit or can I pull the motor alone after I drop the trans. Can I get the trans out from under the car with it on Jack stands? How tall is the C4 bell housing?
 

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If it were me and this is your first time, I would put the car on jack stands and drop the transmission.
Then let the car down and pull the engine separately.

It’s a separate step, but might be easier and less dangerous for you.

It also depends how you are lifting it all and what kind of engine leveler you have.



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Assuming you are using an engine hoist? If so, I don't think you'll be able to get the engine high enough to clear the radiator support without putting the car down.

If you have to pull the trans anyway, you might as well pull it with the engine.

Phil
 

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I've never done it but I've seen the engine and transmission pulled together by putting the rear up on jack stands.
 
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I've never done it but I've seen the engine and transmission pulled together by putting the rear up on jack stands.
This is how I pulled and reinstalled mine. High in the back on ground in the front. I used a leveler and had to tilt the rear down pretty far to clear the rad support and trans tunnel.

I think it is easier to pull together versus dropping the trans then pulling motor,


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A couple things I'd do....

1. Grab some baggies and duck tape and SEAL any disconnected A/C lines. Use plastic caps available from the parts stores on the compressor. Most of the time I leave accessories connected and just lay them well off to the side to avoid such issues.

2. Disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the transmission and cap both the lines and the ports, again you can get threaded plastic plugs. Also get a plug for the output shaft (when you slide out the driveshaft yoke. You can drop the pan later rather than doing it now, then having to put it back on, then back off again when you service the trans.

3. Pull the carburetor so you can a) use an engine lifting plate and b) so you don't damage it by dropping a chain on it or..... Stick it in a safe place... one of those small, cheap plastic totes with a cover will work, short term.

4. Don't throw anything away until you have secured a replacement that you know is correct and fits.
 

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I recommend removing the hood first. Is there anything wrong with the transmission? I'd leave it in the car if there is nothing wrong with it and you don't have any reason to pull it. You will have to remove the four nuts holding the torque converter to the flex plate but that isn't hard. Remove the inspection cover and rotate the engine until you can get to each of them. I pulled quite a few Mustang engines that way. Putting it back in takes a little massaging to line up the trans and torque converter with the flexplate. Oh, don't forget to unbolt the ground strap between the engine and firewall. Don't ask me how I know this.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So forgot to mention, I'm swapping my C4 for a T5 from Modern Driveline so auto is coming out an NOT going back in.

Woodchuck, that was one thing I was curious about, pull the trans cooler lines and drain the whole thing or plug them. Any special plugs? Can I get them at my local Autozone/Oreilly's? Also already put the carb away nice and safe. The AC was never charged so there is nothing in it. The hoses are already ziptied out of the way along with the power steering hoses.

Tom, I've already done this.

I was going to get a leveler. Harbor Freight has them for cheap money. Thanks everyone for their help. Hoping ot get this out sometime in the next few weeks.
 

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So forgot to mention, I'm swapping my C4 for a T5 from Modern Driveline so auto is coming out an NOT going back in.

Woodchuck, that was one thing I was curious about, pull the trans cooler lines and drain the whole thing or plug them. Any special plugs? Can I get them at my local Autozone/Oreilly's? Also already put the carb away nice and safe. The AC was never charged so there is nothing in it. The hoses are already ziptied out of the way along with the power steering hoses.

Tom, I've already done this.

I was going to get a leveler. Harbor Freight has them for cheap money. Thanks everyone for their help. Hoping ot get this out sometime in the next few weeks.
I always drain as many/as much fluids as possible. Everytime I try to skip this step and just plug the holes something goes wrong and I have tranny fluid by the gallonon the floor
 
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similar situation - I need to pull my 302 / T5 as well (and put into a new vehicle)

I have 2 things to consider - if i want to pull the motor / trans together.

1 - I'm doing this in my 20 foot garage... so.. not a lot of room in front of the car

2 - i'm assuming this is the perfect time to replace the leaking rear engine seal - would you guys recommend pulling engine / trans together OR separating them out and only pulling motor only - which would let replace that while its on the hoist?

I guess I could separate them after if pull them together --- i would just need to make a jerry rigged thing to support the trans when I separate it.
 

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Schweigert, if you're separating them anyway and space is limited I'd pull the engine only. The car is just about 16 ft long. Once the engine is on the hoist there's not going to be much room (if any) to move things around. Just a thought.
 
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Never try to pull the engine separate from the transmission unless you like headaches...ALWAYS pull them as one unit and separate them after...unless there is an overriding reason not to do so...if you have an engine load leveler there is no reason not to pull them together...and you should always have a load leveler
 

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I have always found it easier to pull the motor and transmission separately. Im usually by myself so, getting the engine and trans at the angle needed to clear the radiator support while trying to control the cherry picker can be difficult.
 

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Like wicked93gs I never pull the engine without the trans. It's to awkward with too much time on your back.. Every time I have pulled the engine without the trans I have regretted it! Buy a $30-$40 engine tilter. Worth it's weight in gold.
 

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I prefer to pull the engine and trans separate. Well actually I just prefer not to have to do either :p
As you know the engine or engines went in and out of my car a half dozen times in little over a year and I did it both ways and pulling the engine with the trans took half the time and I had it under an hour and a half from loosening the radiator petcock to separated and on the engine stand. I hope to never get that good again.
 

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oh god you guys lol so many different opinions - I think i'd LIKE to pull together--- but space IS limited in my garage (20 feet) and then separating them seems like it would still be an issue after the fact no?
 

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Another issue could be height. I HAD to pull mine together and I am sure the C6 required another foot or two..luckily I have a 17’ ceiling so it wasn’t an issue.
736406
 
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