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I recently got my '66 project back on the road with a rebuilt C4 and a rebuilt 8 inch rear with 3.55 gears. The car was originally a 6 and the PO put a '69 302 in it. It did not run very well when I bought the car but it starts and runs OK with the Edelbrock 1406 and rebuilt distributor I put on it. The intake is a Weiand 180 p (I have no idea how good this manifold is or if I should even bother with it.)

The engine smokes a little at idle and quite a bit when you give it gas while driving. The engine definitely smells of unburned hydrocarbons after driving (my garage smells of exhaust fumes when I park it.) It dives OK up to 50 MPH but above that it runs out of steam and vibrates. I have no idea how many miles are on the engine or even what it came out of. Also, the oil is almost black even though I changed it about 200 miles ago. My questions are:

* Is there something I can do to make this engine run correctly at highway speeds?
* If so, is it worth fixing or should I be looking for a crate engine?
* Is this intake manifold worth keeping?

I don't really have the tools or the expertise to rebuild this engine although I have installed a rebuilt engine before. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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sorry guy but im in the EXACT same place im 17 never done a rebuild but going to do it in a week. its my first so wish me luck. my car burns and dirtys up the oil every 100-300 miles, so im kinda stuck. i had the same smell in car port ohh yah mine goes to 70 then stops there. the intake sounds ok keep anything worth value just never reuse 30 year old fasteners(trust me)
 
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Hey, sounds to me like an engine needin a lot of TLC...I just finished..well almost..completely rebuilding my 289 and while it's not costing me more than it should, it isnt cheap. I'd wait for some of the more seasoned guys on here to answer, you may need to repostin the mornin or at like noon or something. But IMO rebuilding sometimes cost as much as it would be to get a decent crate engine. Good Luck
-ryan
 

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Sounds like bad rings.
Crankcase gasses are blowing past the rings contaminating the oil. Engine Restore (oil additive) will help with the blow-by but is only a crutch until you can rebuild the engine.
 

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Good luck there Johnny B on the rebuild in a week. I was going to do mine in that short of time too. When I was finished it was 60 days later and after 100 trips to the store for small piddly things and a few trips to the dealer I had $2000 wrapped in it. It was a 69 stang motor in a 78 T-bird. Everything was brand new. I am looking into a 300HP Jasper motor for my 65.
 

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* Is there something I can do to make this engine run correctly at highway speeds?

Check the compression on all cylinders. I'll bet you have some very low on compression and only an overhaul or rebuild will solve the problem.

* If so, is it worth fixing or should I be looking for a crate engine?

Fixing your engine depends on a number of variables you can't predict without a teardown inspection. Would you choose to rebuild it if it were already 0.060 overbore? Would you choose to rebuild it if it were already sleeved?
You don't have answers to this without a teardown and the teardown is going to cost you some money and it does not reduce your end cost. All it tells you is whether or not you can expect to safely rebuild your engine. A '69 is a fairly old engine and chances are its been rebuilt several times already (doesn't mean it has, rather its most likely).

How about a crate engine? Where do you expect to get one from and what are you willing to pay? The cheapest Ford crate I know of is an Explorer 302. The problem with this engine is the conversion cost to install. The next cheapest engine is an FRPP 302 (270hp). This engine is not real tame as it might sound from its hp rating. Its powerful (way over 270 hp with the right manifold and headers), and has a strong lope to the idle. Its definately a racing engine and not a show car engine. FRPP engines go more radical from there. Are there other alternatives? Yes, using a late 302 used engine ('87-'94) can be a good choice. There is conversion costs associated with using one of these and this adds to your rebuild costs. The first step in this choice is finding a good rebuilder core engine. If I were doing this, I would use an HO engine as the specification baseline. BTW, roller blocks run fine with carburetors, they just don't get the fuel mileage or smooth starting and running characteristics of an EFI set up.

* Is this intake manifold worth keeping?

Yes, if you intend to use a carburetor. Weiand makes good performance products.
 
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Thanks for your help. I'm going to have to think about this one. I have about a years worth of bodywork to do right now, so I don't have to replace/repair the engine this immediately.
 
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