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Discussion Starter #81
Hi Everyone,
I made good progress this weekend and I think I am ready for my start up. Everything is in place, except the distributor, all bolts have been checked, coolant and oil in the car. I primed the oil pump with an external shaft and drill. See the below video showing the oil flow. The pressure on my gauge was between 40-45.


I have a few more questions,
1. Does the oil flow look correct and is the Pressure OK ?
2. I was told to use Howards Cams Max ZPM Camshaft break in Lube ?
3. I have to put the distributor in, any insight on which way that should point ?
4. Can I start the car with the valve cover off so I can make sure the oil is flowing ?

Thanks for all your help,

Jared
 

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You've got flow and pressure when you primed it I see no reason to leave the valve cover off, you can, but it could sling oil everywhere and you need to follow the cam manufacturers specs to the letter on cam break in, which typically calls for raising the engine speed quickly up starting.
 

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3. With the #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke the rotor should be pointing towards the #1 plug wire nipple on the distributor cap.
 

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When I primed my oil pump I ran the drill quite a while. I also turned the crank by hand while pressurized. With the valve covers removed and oil pump pressurized, I could see the oil reaching the top end. Oil flowed up through the push rods and over the rocker arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
OK, another question. I tried to start the car today. No luck so far. Here is what is going on.

Engine won't turn over. At first I was getting gas spitting out of the carburetor and a little flame.
I pulled the distributor and tried to align it better to TDC and the #1 piston

I removed the distributor and rotated the rotor slightly and reinstalled.
I was close to getting to to start, but still no luck. I won't turn over. No more fuel spitting out of the carburetor. It's on the verge or starting but just won't go.

Any thoughts or idea's on my next steps. I am thinking I need to keep adjusting the distributor to get it aligned correctly,

Let me know what you think.

Thanks
 

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The distributor rotor should be pointed directly at the position for the number one spark plug wire when the number one cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
How do you figure out TDC on the compression stroke vs the exhaust stroke. I have TDC, but am not sure which stroke. Any suggestion on how to find that ?
 

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Pull the number 1 spark plug, place finger in hole and turn the engine over by hand. When you feel air blowing your finger off, you are on the compression stroke. Stop turning at TDC.
 

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Engine won't turn over. At first I was getting gas spitting out of the carburetor and a little flame.
"Turn Over" means the starter is turning the crankshaft. "Fire" means the engine tries to start. So your engine turns over but it doesn't fire.

To find TDC on compression stroke remove the #1 spark plug and put your thumb over the spark plug hole. Or you can buy a whistle that screws into the spark plug hole. Or you can put a bit of tissue in the spark plug hole. Now turn the crankshaft. It will be easier to turn if you remove all of the spark plugs. When the #1 piston is approaching TDC on the compression stroke the pressure will blow your thumb off the hole or it will blow the whistle or it will blow the tissue out of the spark plug hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Thanks everyone for all your advice. I found TDC on the compression stroke, aligned the distributor and it started right up. It's been a long journey and it was super satisfying to have it start up. Onto the next issue,

I have a coolant leak that I need to fix from the water pump or thermostat. I will have to drain the coolant, check both and go from there.

I am concerned that the engine seems to be running hot. I only let it run for 5-10 minutes. Before my rebuild I had an issue with the engine running hot.

Question, should I remove the thermostat to make sure the coolant is flowing. I am not planning on driving this car in cold weather at all. Thoughts ?
 

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Thanks everyone for all your advice. I found TDC on the compression stroke, aligned the distributor and it started right up. It's been a long journey and it was super satisfying to have it start up. Onto the next issue,

I have a coolant leak that I need to fix from the water pump or thermostat. I will have to drain the coolant, check both and go from there.

I am concerned that the engine seems to be running hot. I only let it run for 5-10 minutes. Before my rebuild I had an issue with the engine running hot.

Question, should I remove the thermostat to make sure the coolant is flowing. I am not planning on driving this car in cold weather at all. Thoughts ?
No, the thermostat serves an important purpose. Maybe your water pump is bad and leaking out the weap hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
It's a new water pump. I am pretty sure it's leaking from the seal. I was told by a few people if the car is running hot that you can remote the thermostat. I will check my seals and go from there.
 

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Technically, you can remove it. But don't. Pull it out and test it in a pot of hot water on the stove with a thermometer. Make sure it actually opens.
 

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It's a new water pump. I am pretty sure it's leaking from the seal. I was told by a few people if the car is running hot that you can remote the thermostat. I will check my seals and go from there.
What is your indications that it is running hot? The gauge pegged? coolant blowing out the radiator?
 

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Discussion Starter #97
I have to do some further investigation on the engine running hot. I haven't driven the car yet. I have had it idling in the driveway so far. next step is to take it for a drive and watch the temperature gauge. I had a small coolant leak that I am trying to track down.

One more question, is there a break in procedure for a rebuilt engine. I did use a break in additive that I know needs to be changed after 1000 miles. Is there anything else I should be doing in this break-in period. Do I need to drive a certain way, keep the speed and acceleration down ?? Anything like that ?
 

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Have you set the ignition timing? If the timing is slow it will overheat.
Did you break the cam in before letting it sit and idle?
 

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Discussion Starter #99
No on both. I attempted to set the timing, but I am not sure how accurate I am. I have a timing gun, but need to try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Another question for the group. I did my first test drive on the road today for a few minutes. My temperature gauge was hot after a short ride. I do have a small coolant leak to be fixed. I am concerned about the overheating issue. I had this issue before I rebuilt the engine. The car has the original radiator. I did a flush prior to re-installing. Do you think there might be a problem with my radiator ? Should I consider replacing it ?
Any thoughts ?
 
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