Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone and thanks for your help in advance!
I have a 1966 I6 200 Emberglo Convertible Mustang. It is numbers matching with lots of original parts and no rust:) Circumstances came up and it sat in my sisters garage for about 8 years. I pulled her out and want to get it mechanically sound. I flushed it, changed the gas tank, rebuilt the carb(autolite 110 and looking for a replacement), pertronix(still kept points), new tires, new leaf springs, new drums and shoes, and I think thats all the major stuff. I got it running rather quickly with some quick shot in the carb. When I start it up, the engine shakes violently until its get warmed up(about 10 minutes on a cold start). I also see that the exhaust is blowing and grayish smoke and when I put my hand under the tailpipe, dark wet specks get shot on to my hand. I don't see smoke in or around the engine or exhaust manifold. Any ideas?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,428 Posts
It sounds like you didn't get the idle circuit clean when you rebuilt the carb. Did you run a stiff wire through all of the passageways? Undoubtedly they're clogged with gum and varnish from the old gas.
The smoke is present because the piston rings are stuck to the pistons due to the same gum and varnish that clogged the carb. Put a quart of ATF or MMO in the crankcase and run the engine. Put another quart in the gas tank.
The black wet specks are carbon that is being flushed out of the cylinders.
 
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
I believe your choke isn't functioning correctly. I'd bet one of Stevea's cars on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,216 Posts
1100's are so simple, yet such a pain to get right. Even when "right" they are troublesome. I had to get 4 different ones before gettting one that would run right after being rebuilt. I don't have a solution for it though...except for going to the large log head and converting it to a 2bbl autolite. Some day I will do it, got the head waiting...but now that Classic inlines is in the tanker...I am trying to be patient.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,272 Posts
There's a good possibility that, over the years while sitting, some corrosion built up inside the choke housing which is causing the "de-choke piston" inside to stick. It's purpose is, upon the engine starting and generating vacuum, to crack the choke plate open a specified distance to prevent the engine from flooding. If it doesn't function properly, the choke plate stays shut and causes the engine to run really rich until enough exhaust manifold heat is sent to the choke housing via the hot air tube to open the choke plate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I actually had someone rebuild the carb for me. He says everything was done. Looks clean but can't really tell you about all passage ways. Should I leave the quart of ATF in the crankcase and gas tank? I have used ATF on other cars for an engine flush but didn't leave it in too long and flushed before I put new oil/filter. I appreciate your help as I am trying to be more hands on with this!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
1100's are so simple, yet such a pain to get right. Even when "right" they are troublesome. I had to get 4 different ones before gettting one that would run right after being rebuilt. I don't have a soution for it though...except for going to the large log head and converting it to a 2bbl autolite. Some day I will do it, got the head waiting...but now that Classic inlines is in the tanker...I am trying to be patient.
Thanks for the info! I am thinking of changing to the Holley 1940(I think thats it). But heard they are no prize either from some
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
There's a good possibility that, over the years while sitting, some corrosion built up inside the choke housing which is causing the "de-choke piston" inside to stick. It's purpose is, upon the engine starting and generating vacuum, to crack the choke plate open a specified distance to prevent the engine from flooding. If it doesn't function properly, the choke plate stays shut and causes the engine to run really rich until enough exhaust manifold heat is sent to the choke housing via the hot air tube to open the choke plate.
I paid some carb wizard to rebuild it. After I paid him, I dorve the car and told him it was still rough at idle, and Violent at startup, he tried to sell me on a Holley Carb! Thanks for the help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,216 Posts
There is still some tuning and tinkering after a carb rebuild. You can do the basic bench adjustments, but after installing you have to dial it in w/ timing, setting the idle, fast idle, choke and etc. Do you have a manual or something to help with that part of the adjustments?

I use a vacuum gauge to set carb and timing. Learned alot on the Classic inlines website. Even though the classicinlines store is down and out, the tech section of website is a wealth of info, and still up and running. VMF is great, but for the inline 6 that site is also great. There are less of the "6" guys here.

If you haven't been there...here is a link to alot of reading. focus on the tune up section for your current predicament.

keep asking questions, as the folks here will get you going.


http://classicinlines.com/

http://classicinlines.com/Tech.asp
 
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
'ey Mick . . it's a classic choke problem. Now that doesn't mean it couldn't be a few different things causing the problem, but that is where to look. And just because it ws recently rebuilt doesn't exclude it from this problem . . unfortunately. You can verify this by taking the air cleaner lid off when you start the engine. You will see the choke plate practically closed, if not closed. If you grab it and open it up slightly, you will see/hear the engine run better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
There is still some tuning and tinkering after a carb rebuild. You can do the basic bench adjustments, but after installing you have to dial it in w/ timing, setting the idle, fast idle, choke and etc. Do you have a manual or something to help with that part of the adjustments?

I use a vacuum gauge to set carb and timing. Learned alot on the Classic inlines website. Even though the classicinlines store is down and out, the tech section of website is a wealth of info, and still up and running. VMF is great, but for the inline 6 that site is also great. There are less of the "6" guys here.

If you haven't been there...here is a link to alot of reading. focus on the tune up section for your current predicament.

keep asking questions, as the folks here will get you going.


Classic Inlines Performance Parts - Home

Classic Inlines
Thanks for the links and info! I have the Ford Mustang Falcon etc..shop manual..not sure if it is in there. I will look when I get home..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
'ey Mick . . it's a classic choke problem. Now that doesn't mean it couldn't be a few different things causing the problem, but that is where to look. And just because it ws recently rebuilt doesn't exclude it from this problem . . unfortunately. You can verify this by taking the air cleaner lid off when you start the engine. You will see the choke plate practically closed, if not closed. If you grab it and open it up slightly, you will see/hear the engine run better.
Thanks for the info! I am going to pop the filter off when I get home and tinker around the carb after I start her up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
There's a good possibility that, over the years while sitting, some corrosion built up inside the choke housing which is causing the "de-choke piston" inside to stick. It's purpose is, upon the engine starting and generating vacuum, to crack the choke plate open a specified distance to prevent the engine from flooding. If it doesn't function properly, the choke plate stays shut and causes the engine to run really rich until enough exhaust manifold heat is sent to the choke housing via the hot air tube to open the choke plate.
I actually had someone rebuild the carb for me. He says everything was done. Looks clean but can't really tell you about all passage ways. Should I leave the quart of ATF in the crankcase and gas tank? I have used ATF on other cars for an engine flush but didn't leave it in too long and flushed before I put new oil/filter. I appreciate your help as I am trying to be more hands on with this!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,216 Posts
Down here in S. Texas, I don't have to use the choke too much. Only cold a few months of the year. I usually adjust for summer, and then re-adjust the choke for the cold month...or months if we have more than 1 or 2. I see you are in NY. Spent alot of my childhood running through the cornfields in western NY. But I don't miss the snow from the Buffalo area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
OK....So I changed the oil filter, put a quart of ATF in the crankcase, ran it for a couple of hours, and the changed the oil and the filter again. The oil was black!! I dialed in the carb some(at least better) and it seems to be running better:grin2:. Hopefully it will get better as I run it.

I was driving it around near dusk and I noticed that the amp gauge ticks back and forth a touch consistently. The headlights tick from normal to slightly dimmer and back with each tick of the amp gauge...Obviously something electrical but any ideas as to where I can zone in on? Thanks again
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,428 Posts
It won't hurt to leave the ATF in the crankcase until the next scheduled oil change. It will continue to clean gum and varnish as you drive. It won't clean anything when it's in the waste oil recycling barrel.

Your headlights are overloading the circuit breaker inside the headlight switch causing the breaker to trip off then back on. Clean all of the contacts and connectors in the headlight wiring system and see if that cures it. Consider doing the "headlight relay" mod, especially if you're running halogen lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,216 Posts
I was driving it around near dusk and I noticed that the amp gauge ticks back and forth a touch consistently. The headlights tick from normal to slightly dimmer and back with each tick of the amp gauge...Obviously something electrical but any ideas as to where I can zone in on? Thanks again
Sounds like the mechanical voltage regulator is a little rough. This won't hurt anything (and may smooth out with use), but if it gets worse, or gets on your nerves, a Motorcraft electronic is the way to go.

Oh, and the dark wet stuff is water, a normal by-product of engine combustion, in your case rinsing carbon out of the engine and exhaust system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
It won't hurt to leave the ATF in the crankcase until the next scheduled oil change. It will continue to clean gum and varnish as you drive. It won't clean anything when it's in the waste oil recycling barrel.

Your headlights are overloading the circuit breaker inside the headlight switch causing the breaker to trip off then back on. Clean all of the contacts and connectors in the headlight wiring system and see if that cures it. Consider doing the "headlight relay" mod, especially if you're running halogen lights.
You must be the Mustang whisperer! Glad I found this site and thanks for your help. That was where I was going to start was with cleaning up contacts or issues in wiring with the headlights. I am not sure what the headlight mod is. Can I find that on the forum? I searched for that and it didn't result anything that seems like it would be inline with what I am trying to achieve. Thanks again
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top