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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I still have problems with Ping/rattle sound with my Mustang and you Are my last Hope.
I swapped a 90 302 from a foxbody to my 65 Mustang. Removed the efi stuff and Put in a carb.
The Situation is, that IT starts to ping, when its warm. When the engine ist cold, you cannot really hear that sound. IT starts at about 2k rpm and above. Nothing to hear under that rpm.
IT only does IT in Cruise. With almost No load. AS soon as i give some gas it gets less.
Sounds like a lean problem, i know, but i tuned it richer and richer in Cruise with No success.
Was already between 11 to 12 afr, but no chance. Set the Timing back so late that i had Backifring, still Pinging. Changed plugs, carb, pcv, wires, dizzi, cleaned both carbs, User seafoam, checked Eiterouting, changed coil, changed oil, tuned vacuum can, checked cooling water for oil and smoke.

Next i will try colder plugs and different carbonite cleaner, but my ideas are Out.

Any suggestions?

Could it be affected by a problem with the non used egr holes? I plugged IT with 2 screws and doublechecked If there are any leaks.
Also checked the engine and manifold For any leaks.
Changed the pushrods and checked the arms for rattle.

Really No idea at all.

Thanks
 

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What is your static timing set at and what's your all-in timing set at? What distributor are you using?

I had a similar problem and 90% of it was timing related. I was using a Pertronix II in a refurbished OEM style distributor. Ford distributors have an adjustment for the total advance. Turns out mine had 30 degrees of advance, so my total timing was like 45 degrees. I was able to correct it and that solved my detonation problem.
 

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How much vacuum advance are you getting?
As an experiment. disconnect the vacuum advance and cap the line going to the carb to avoid a vacuum leak.
Go test drive and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the answers.
I had a pertronix after the swap and changed to brand New MSD.
Currently i have 12 btc, but already tried 10, 8, 6, 4,2, tdc , 2 atc, 4, nothing fixed it.
The mechanical advance is 21 at 3k i think. But already tried the heavy springs for the late advance.
Checked all the above settings with and without the Vacuum can.
Changed die Default can with 16 degree to an adjustable one. Set that to 8 degree i think... Need to check that again.

So settings are: 12 + 21 in wot after 3 k, 33
12 + 21 + 8 in Cruise after 3 k, 41

Already did, but i can try IT again to proove your ideas:

8 Base, 21 with the biggest springs, No can.
It will Ping for sure.

Intersting Part is. It is starting to ping at about 2k rpm, No matter what setting i choose, and only when i am in Cruise. As soon as i give some gas all is good until i stay in the pedal Position , when its Not acceleratin any more it starts to ping.

Also tried 100 octane, No change.

If you want me to try Something i will do IT in the next days.
 

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Generally, and advance ping starts at low rpms and goes away at high. It should also move around in your RPMS with your timing. Could you have a nick in your head or piston that is causing a hot spot? Did you lose a screw (literally or figuratively) that went down the carb or intake, pull a plug wiht no electrode?

Could it be a mechanical sound and not a ping?
 

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I think Dobrostang is on to something... Any chance you are hearing an engine knock, piston slap, faulty whatever and not detonation? Try and capture the noise in a video clip and post it so we can all have a listen.

All the things you have done thus far should have stopped the ping, if it was indeed pinging...
 

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Thanks for the answers.
I had a pertronix after the swap and changed to brand New MSD.
Currently i have 12 btc, but already tried 10, 8, 6, 4,2, tdc , 2 atc, 4, nothing fixed it.
The mechanical advance is 21 at 3k i think. But already tried the heavy springs for the late advance.
Checked all the above settings with and without the Vacuum can.
Changed die Default can with 16 degree to an adjustable one. Set that to 8 degree i think... Need to check that again.

So settings are: 12 + 21 in wot after 3 k, 33
12 + 21 + 8 in Cruise after 3 k, 41

Already did, but i can try IT again to proove your ideas:

8 Base, 21 with the biggest springs, No can.
It will Ping for sure.

Intersting Part is. It is starting to ping at about 2k rpm, No matter what setting i choose, and only when i am in Cruise. As soon as i give some gas all is good until i stay in the pedal Position , when its Not acceleratin any more it starts to ping.

Also tried 100 octane, No change.

If you want me to try Something i will do IT in the next days.
When I curved my distributor the for GT40P heads I measured timing every 250 rpm up to 3000rpm and then every 500rpm. Two runs with and without vacuum advance. It is not perfect, but gives you a good idea about the timing. Plot it in Excel and share the curve.

I would also look into mechanical issues in addition.
 

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On EGR equiped cars they typically had a huge amount of vacuum advance to cover the effects of the egr operation. My dad had a 77 Granada with a 302. Very low 8's on compression. If I disconnected it would ping uncontrollably. Some of these vacuum advances on egr motors will pull in as much as 60* vacuum advance. On a lot of Ford vacuum cans, you can adjust the vacuum rate by sticking a Allen wrench inside the vacuum nipple. I don't know if the MSD is the same. I would suggest calling MSD to find out if in fact they are adjustable and their specs. You could put a mechanical stop on the vacuum linkage to limit total amount of vacuum advance. Hope this helped
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I will try to record the sound as soon as i can. AS AS soon as Corona lets me out of the Garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
On EGR equiped cars they typically had a huge amount of vacuum advance to cover the effects of the egr operation. My dad had a 77 Granada with a 302. Very low 8's on compression. If I disconnected it would ping uncontrollably. Some of these vacuum advances on egr motors will pull in as much as 60* vacuum advance. On a lot of Ford vacuum cans, you can adjust the vacuum rate by sticking a Allen wrench inside the vacuum nipple. I don't know if the MSD is the same. I would suggest calling MSD to find out if in fact they are adjustable and their specs. You could put a mechanical stop on the vacuum linkage to limit total amount of vacuum advance. Hope this helped
Changed the can to an adjustable one. Default ist 16 from the msd can. I reduced with the new one to 8 degrees.
But also tried all steps with disconnected can.
 

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Have you tried running with the vac advance disconnected. Set the timing around 16+ and go for a drive. If no ping look at your vac advance system.
 

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With all the timing changes not affecting your "ping" and, assuming you also tried driving with your vacuum advance disconnected AND the fact that it seems to do it when it gets warm, my money is on the Thermactor ports at the rear of the cylinder heads. You said you used "screws" to plug them. They make a special 5/8-11 plug for these and I'd install with Permatex Ultra Copper as a thread sealant.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, when this Corona thing dies down, I can swing by and lend a hand. I've got a lot of work in Frankfurt and will be spending quite a bit of time out there.
World be great. First i try to record the sound. Thanks everyone
 

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Discussion Starter #20
With all the timing changes not affecting your "ping" and, assuming you also tried driving with your vacuum advance disconnected AND the fact that it seems to do it when it gets warm, my money is on the Thermactor ports at the rear of the cylinder heads. You said you used "screws" to plug them. They make a special 5/8-11 plug for these and I'd install with Permatex Ultra Copper as a thread sealant.
I am pretty sure that it is sealed, because i used shortened screws with copper rings and fastened it against the block.
Anyhow thats an idea i will try out. I will Order the plugs.
 
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