[jimeast]

Paxton w/FE

The only thing I've ever seen is the 427 Cobra with twin Paxton's. ERA Replica's made a copy of the original and I was at their shop and got to see it. Google ERA Twin Paxton Cobra or something and you might be able to find a few pictures. Also Cosby Cobra may help fond some pictures. The engine compartment was pretty cool, but the car with the hood they had to use was not for me.

Nice! I almost forgot about "Little Red". Unfortunate that it did not survive the scrap heap.

Do you have a link to any photos of the engine bay? It would be interesting to see how they fit that thing under the hood. I guess it must have been a custom hood to create the space? Even with the 289/302, the Paxton barely fits in the engine bay, especially the '68 version with power steering.

I have seen a couple of photos and it looks like the hood has some extra cut outs or some similar type of mod.

 

[dalorzof]

It weighs several hundred pounds lighter than a 390 (even with aluminum heads and intake). My motor would run laps around any 390.[/qoute]

Really? "Several", like 300-400??

The 351 only weighed 70 pounds less than a 390 from carb to pan, less bolt-ons. 530 vs 600 per Ford. So I seriously doubt "several" hundred pounds savings is realistic (or you got your 351 down to about 200-250 lbs). Maybe 100... maybe a little bit more, with similar alloy head/intake replacements as sizes are close, but a bit larger intake on the FE so a few pounds more... (but it sure sounds good with no actual evidence!)

Its about more than the weight of the engine, 427's weighed in at 680 (must be a ship anchor!) yet are oddly desireable! Otherwise T codes would rule (lighter is better right?)

And "any" 390? FE's pushing well over 600Hp (some carb'd over 700) and massive torque, pretty bold... but may be true. But there are lots of after market goodies to pump up a FE these days. A bit more cost, yep, but not really staggering differences.

351 to 393 stroker kits.... $1200-2000
Ford Engine Kit - Ford 393 Stroker Kit, 351 Windsor Stroker

390 to 445 stoker kits... $1900-2300
Survival FE Engine Kits

So in the long run of a restoration not a real big difference in cost to build a big FE over a high performance small block. And to me the bling factor when you open the hood is worth it.

The mythology and legend against the FE is ingrained, but with some new parts they run quite well and give very good power to weight and great torque curves with the right build. A great engine, no, (but is the 60's 289 or 351 really top notch either in original form?) but not as bad as many suggest...

They will all go down the road at a fun pace... but if you want a race car a Mustang is a bad start if cost vs. performance is the goal!! Far better cars for far less $ available if the lowest lap time is the end game...

 

[GLHSCODE]

OK, so let's all jump on the FE guys for liking big heavy blocks for whatever reason. I'm going up to 390 in my GT/CS because I like big blocks and I ain't gonna lie, and also because that is what it was born with. When I got it it had a 289, which has now gone into another Mustang. It does take a lot of other parts, but I think I have them all except for that elusive bell housing. My 65 GT 289 A-code convertible is a blast to drive and I put a lot of miles on it. and it went through one home restoration or rather freshen up. That was not bad but the 390 change over is quite a bit more on the mechanical side. I will look at the "rebuilt" 390 when I get in there to change the heads to the GT heads. Meanwhile stil on the quest for a 390 GT bell housing. Later

 

[Israel]

2011 Thread

 

[CJM68GT390]

OK, so let's all jump on the FE guys for liking big heavy blocks for whatever reason. I'm going up to 390 in my GT/CS because I like big blocks and I ain't gonna lie, and also because that is what it was born with. When I got it it had a 289, which has now gone into another Mustang. It does take a lot of other parts, but I think I have them all except for that elusive bell housing. My 65 GT 289 A-code convertible is a blast to drive and I put a lot of miles on it. and it went through one home restoration or rather freshen up. That was not bad but the 390 change over is quite a bit more on the mechanical side. I will look at the "rebuilt" 390 when I get in there to change the heads to the GT heads. Meanwhile stil on the quest for a 390 GT bell housing. Later

HI
Your first post and you jumped on a 10 year old thread. Are you looking for help, or are you considering starting a build thread?

 

[GLHSCODE]

HI
Your first post and you jumped on a 10 year old thread. Are you looking for help, or are you considering starting a build thread?

Ye,a I didn't see the date till I came back after the the post, but I think my point is still valid as the bell housings are still hard to find and expensive, so I'm still looking for one.

 

[GT289]

I had forgotten about this thread.
GT/CS with a big block is a fairly rare piece. I'd also go with that engine if it were mine.....
That would be about the only way I'd want a 67/68 Mustang with a 390.

Slim in post #10 had it somewhat right- the '67 390 car was intended to be marketed against the Camaro.
Its superiority was short lived when the 396 arrived. A 396 Chevelle would eat a 390 Mustang up, let alone a
396 Camaro. Been in a few of those races. back in the day.

 

[ElConductor]

The issues I have with big blocks are a few... first is the added weight. All things being equal, an all cast iron 390 is going to be about 160lbs heavier than an all cast iron 289/302 and about 100lbs heavier than an all cast iron 351w. An all cast iron 429/460 is even heavier than a 390 at about 720lbs, or roughly 300lbs heavier than an all cast iron 289/302 or 200lbs heavier than an all cast iron 351w. To me, that’s quite a bit of extra weight up front. Now obviously you can reduce that amount of weight by using aluminum cylinder heads, aluminum intake, moving the battery to the trunk and so on, but you can also do that to a 289/302/351w as well. The other issue I have is the cost.

IMO, a 289/302/351w is going to have about the most aftermarket parts available and are relatively easy/cheap to rebuild. It’s not usually until you get to the more moderately built 302 based stroker motors where you start to get rather expensive. Even the 351w is pretty cheap to build with some decent horsepower. When you get to the 390/429/460 though, the amount of parts available is usually quite a bit less and they’re usually also more expensive because of that, especially to have someone build one for you. I think a moderately built 351w or stroker 351w with 500+ hp/tq is more than adequate for me, especially if I’m just going to use it on the street and maybe see a little track time. I can’t imagine much else on the road would be able to keep up with that.

 

[Redneckgearhead]

If I was going FE (big block is a GM engine) I wouldn't stop at 390. No replacement for displacement.

 

[sixtysevenGTconv]

As said doable, but at what cost? A lot of parts it'll take to do, especially for a "Newbie"
My 67 vert (same engine bay as a 68 coupe) came with a factory 390 4 spd. But if you get a 390 from anything other than a stang, doable but again as said it'll take many parts to do.
Whether you do a C6 trans or (the lots of fun) 4 spd., it'll take a unique trans brkt for the 390 4 spd, bell housings, driveshaft, upgrade to 9" rear end, wire harness in engine bay, all the correct pulleys & brkts. Also diff radiator, probably want disc brakes then. Diff sway bar and coil springs. I did the ground up resto on mine, know the parts well.
As said yes you can beef up a small block with higher HP, but not sure it be the same as the high torque you get from a nicely built 390. I've own both a 67 FB with a mild built 289 4 spd & now a 67 vert with a 390 4 spd & the feeling of a down shift and getting on a 390 is awesome...
Oh it fits ~ 1" to spare. and of course I upped the game adding tri-power

But if a newbie, I'd stick with the easier to do 289 and learn the stang better.

 

[coupster]

For Future posterity:

I am all for small blocks, I love the Clevelands, and I also like the sixes. I've promoted them often and currently own several. 2 years ago, I installed a 390/C6 in place of a 302/C4 in my 70 mustang. Total change of the car. Do I like it better than the small block...YOU BET! Does it still handle-YES! Is it as nimble as my other small blocks or sixes-NOPE!. Do I care-NOPE! But it can still carve the corners pretty well, and surely will power out of them pretty damn good. I won't say it was cheap, nor was it easy. I got most of it in trade/ free, so it was worth it to me. I've learned alot. I wouldn't change it, nor would hesitate to install any small block or six in these cars. They all have their purpose and usefulness. You gotta know what the plan is for the car-cruiser, daily, strait-line, twistys, trailer queen or lawn art. You can try to build for all...but that's a different rabbit hole. Take your pick and dive in...

yeah its from 2011...but we know more now...and in my case...have forgotten much of it.

 

[ElConductor]

If I was going FE (big block is a GM engine) I wouldn't stop at 390. No replacement for displacement.

Eh, I would disagree. I'd definitely much rather have a 427 cu in Windsor stroker motor with aluminum heads as opposed to a bone stock 460 cu in FE. Especially when put in an early 1965/66 car as the shock towers typically have to be removed for anything above a 351w, and the spark plugs are already difficult to replace. I can't imagine a 460 even in a 1967/68 would be easy to work on either. But again, that's just me.

 

[Israel]

Now stroke that 460 to 557 and you've got a Monster, kicking out 500 HP / TQ @ a sleepy 5400 rpm.

 

[Redneckgearhead]

Eh, I would disagree. I'd definitely much rather have a 427 cu in Windsor stroker motor with aluminum heads as opposed to a bone stock 460 cu in FE. Especially when put in an early 1965/66 car as the shock towers typically have to be removed for anything above a 351w, and the spark plugs are already difficult to replace. I can't imagine a 460 even in a 1967/68 would be easy to work on either. But again, that's just me.

Oh if absolute power and ease of wrenching is your goal by all means. My statement was based on a few things, IF I wanted a stock looking build and my car was an original FE car I wouldn't stop at 390 Cid. Since the 65/6 never had an FE its a moot point.

 

[Lfino]

I love the feel of a perfectly hit pitching wedge from a hundred yards out to the center of the green. Also can't beat feel of a Long straight drive down the middle! Two completely different smiles.

 

[CJM68GT390]

also because that is what it was born with.

Perfect. Returning it to its original configuration is always a plus (says a guy who took out his top loader for a TKO?).
Check out Mansfield Mustang. He deals only with FE items for Mustangs. Very knowledgeable and helpful. He probably has the parts that you are looking for.
Online Catalog (mansfieldmustang.com)

 

[ElConductor]

Oh if absolute power and ease of wrenching is your goal by all means. My statement was based on a few things, IF I wanted a stock looking build and my car was an original FE car I wouldn't stop at 390 Cid. Since the 65/6 never had an FE its a moot point.

Well... I’ve never really been a fan of many things in stock form, especially a classic mustang. My 65 fastback was originally a 289 c code and an automatic transmission. Now it’s nowhere near stock as it’s a 351w with well over 400hp/tq, a T5 transmission, 4 wheel disc brakes, different tires, wheels, brakes, different color paint and so on. At this point, there wouldn’t be much I’d change. The power level, lightness of weight and drivability make the car fantastic to drive. I think most classic mustangs being a minimum of over 50 years old at this point have generally had at least a couple things added or changed out on them that aren’t stock.

 

[Redneckgearhead]

Well... I’ve never really been a fan of many things in stock form, especially a classic mustang. My 65 fastback was originally a 289 c code and an automatic transmission. Now it’s nowhere near stock as it’s a 351w with well over 400hp/tq, a T5 transmission, 4 wheel disc brakes, different tires, wheels, brakes, different color paint and so on. At this point, there wouldn’t be much I’d change. The power level, lightness of weight and drivability make the car fantastic to drive. I think most classic mustangs being a minimum of over 50 years old at this point have generally had at least a couple things added or changed out on them that aren’t stock.

It doesn't have to be stock to look the part. My build is to look stockish.... 351w stroked to 393, proflo 4 injection. T56 with stock style shift handle, power windows that retain the crank handles etc.... windsors are fantastic, I love em. But I would have no issue building a stroked and injected FE to put down in a 67 and later mustang.

 

[ElConductor]

It doesn't have to be stock to look the part. My build is to look stockish.... 351w stroked to 393, proflo 4 injection. T56 with stock style shift handle, power windows that retain the crank handles etc.... windsors are fantastic, I love em. But I would have no issue building a stroked and injected FE to put down in a 67 and later mustang.

if that’s the case, and you’re referring to the 68 mustang coupe in your sig, then why didn’t you use a 390 FE or larger?

 

[Redneckgearhead]

if that’s the case, and you’re referring to the 68 mustang coupe in your sig, then why didn’t you use a 390 FE or larger?

Lol I'm not that wealthy. I'm not sure why you're trying to debate my opinion.