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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

At what HP level do you think a person would require an engine torque strap?

I have a 66 - 289 at about 260-270 HP with regular rubber motor mounts

Thanks, Greg.
 

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If your motor mount insulators are in good shape, you wouldn't even come close to needing one.

If you were putting out, say, 400 hp, it might be a different story, but at less than 300, you should be fine with good rubber mounts only.
 

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If under hard acceleration your motor rotates enough to start hitting items like shock towers. At your current HP level, good motor mounts should be fine. Also, if you still have concerns, I heard of a trick of drilling a hole through the motor mount and inserting a high quality bolt (grade 8?) as an extra level of security.
 

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Buy Lakewood Muscle Car motor mounts. They come with built in torque limiters. TCP also makes competition motor mounts for early Mustangs.
 

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It's really not about HP. It's about torque and how you abuse your car.

I used to pop mounts all the time with a stock 289 backed by a toploader because I dropped the hammer a lot (I was young back then).

If you are really concerned about breaking things you should look at the Lakewood mounts or the TCP mounts. The straps/chains/turnbuckles/etc are a particularly ugly solution, IMHO.
 

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When you tear a mount, its time for a torque/twisting limiting device. Its the torque of the motor that will tear the mount, not the HP. Even though HP is a function of torque, we won't get into that discussion again...

If you are hard on your driveline, quick launches, jerky throttle application, I would put one on just to keep things where they should be. If not, then I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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In addition to what others have already said, if you are drag racing the car, add one. Regardless of the hp, it will help to apply the engine torque to the frame. Otherwise it is motion wasted.
 

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I think it depends more on engine/header clearance than hp. I've got a gas station rebuilt 302 (from PO) that I'm sure is under 200hp, and I needed a torque strap. My headers were only about 1/4" from the fender, and with new engine mounts, it would still smack it. A turnbuckle torque strap for around $15 solved my problem.
 
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On my 390 their are a few bolt holes in front of the driver side head and i just bolted a chain to the head and found a sturdy place on the frame. Awhile ago before I had the chain, the chassis flexed and the fan cought the radiator shroud and dropped stuff on the track so i was DQ.
 

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You can solve this for a couple dollars,permanantly.Get a long 7/16 drill bit and drill a hole through the bottom flange of the motor mount,all the way through the rubber and through the the upper flange that attaches to the block.Use a 3/8 bolt(at least a grade 5),about two inches long(I can't remember the exact length), slide it in the hole and double nut the other end.Leave about 1/4 inch between the first nut and the mount.This allows the mount to isolate vibration but it will stop the two halves of the mount from separating.I do this to every mustang I work on,and have done it for at least twenty years without a single failure.No ugly strap in your engine compartment and costs almost nothing....
 
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