Then, at the very least, after you clean up the pan and replace the oil pump PICK-UP, set the pan back in place (no need for a gasket just yet) with a bolt on each corner, get a couple gallons of mineral spirits and a fresh oil filter and, using a gallon at a time, put one gallon in the crankcase and run the oil pump with a drill for 10 minutes or so at a stretch, drain off that batch, refill and run for another 10 minutes, dump THAT batch, then put in a gallon of straight SAE30HD and run THAT for 10 minutes, dump IT and put on your new filter, then button everything up. At least that might push anything else that's remaining the rest of the way through.... I'd also leave the valve covers loose and when you're pumping the oil through at the end make sure each pushrod is flowing oil. If not then you'll be at least pulling that lifter.Thank you Woodchuck. I agree with you, but I am going to look at the oil pump screen and oil pump driveshaft and clean up the pan. Then go from there. I am trying to avoid a tear down.
Looks like the "generic replacement" type idler arm of "less expensive" construction commonly used. The "better" ones have a one-piece bracket/shaft and look like this....Here are three photos of my idler arm. The lower bolt nut access is blocked by the cotter pin on the bushing castle nut which I could not see while laying on the ground. However, just looking at the photo I am a bit skeptical that I will be able to get a socket on the nut with the cotter pin moved away. The cone threads could still be blocking access to the nut. We shall see. View attachment 752822