Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,968 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, I still can't get it to start although it acts likes its trying now.

I think my timing is off just enough that it won't start. Then, I get it flooded, then playing with the timing doesn't help because it's flooded. Is there anyway to look at the rotor and eyeball the timing within a few degrees?

Does the ignition fire when the rotor is centered on the terminal, as it reaches the terminal, as it leaves the terminal or at some other time? I have a Pertronix if that matters.

Regarding my earlier post, I verifyed with Wynne Speed (who sold me the cam and AFR heads) that the cam I have uses the original 289 firing order. One person asked about cam instalation. I installed it Dot to Dot (crank dot at top...cam dot at bottom). Hell, I even degreed it and came out with 106 degrees just like the cam card said.

I don't have a timing light. I've never used a timing light. I don't really want to buy a timing light. Am I stuck having it towed somewhere to have it sorted out?

Phil

'65 Convertible (with many mods.)
http://www.blueriver.net/~finite/Pony.htm
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
If it is cam-related, I will not be of assistance, However, I recently had my distributer spin, so I'm pretty good at "eye-balling" it. #1 is the front left cylinder if you are looking at the engine from the front of the car. Find an old coat hangar, pull that plug and straighten the coat hangar out. Slide the coat hangar into the cylinder (being careful, you do not want to scratch the walls). Now pull the distributer cap off. If you rotate the engine to top dead center, on cylinder #1, the rotor should be pointing about 1 o'clock. eyeball it with the cap, and I think it starts to fire as soon as it reaches that point. I put all new plugs in after this trick and it fired right up.
By the way, a timing light is abour $30.00 and is totally worth having.
Good luck.
T
ps, My SWMBO is about to figure out what I've been putting into my cars.... Time for some flowers...


1966 C-Code Convertible, 59 Edsel Villager
Charlotte, NC
New Cars Have No Soul.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,176 Posts
The rotor should be a little past the #1 on the cap at TDC. You want it to be firing aprox 10 degress BTDC. My car will start
with the timing way off, having a timing light makes it alot easier. Connect the light to the number #1 plug with the plug
out, feel for TDC (finger over hole) as you slowly rotate the engine. The timing light will come on to indicate when the plug is firing. You can find TDC and move the distributor around to
get the light to come on also.

Regards,
BillGear

1966 Mustang Coupe, 302 custom roller cam, holley 650dp,http://www.289mustang.com
http://www.289mustang.com/images/vmfcar.jpg
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
There was a thread a while back with a similar prob

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/forums/showthreaded.pl?Cat=1&Board=forum&Number=49550&page=&view=&sb=&vc=1#Post49550

Refer to my post there and don't worry about chopping off your finger.
When your finger is in or covering the hole you will feel a push from the compression stroke that is how you will know that you are not 180 out. It is best to have one person crank and you rotate the dist to try to get it to fire. You can not expect to set the dist in place then go try to turn the car on and have it fire up. You don't need a timing gun they are helpful sometimes.
You did an excellent job from what I could see on your web site. This is the last little obstruction and after you figure out how to do this it is easy.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top