Theoretically the lifter does not ride on the edge of the cam lobe. The base of the lifter is supposed to be convex.
By my eye it looks like the faces of the lifters are worn concave, you might want to pull the valve covers and see if all the rockers are moving the same amount, or just bite the bullet, pull the intake and examine the lifters directly.This is what we thought as well. Still leaves us wondering what causes the damage there though, we did not find that many shards in the oil pan.
Nice find, I see that now too indeed.I would run it, the lobe and lifter are not centered with each other. You can see half the lifter in the one pic, proving my point. The shiny edges (the area of the lobe that contacts the lifter) seem to be opposite of the damage so it shouldn't hurt the lifter.
exactly, it takes more effort to turn the pump so its harder on the distributor, drive gears, driveshaft.I mean it works, so I wouldn't see why it causes a lot of stress other than pushing out move volume.
As I said several pages back in this thread, plenty of SBFs have chewed up distributor gears due to running a HV pump. I’ve seen it several times. It adds a lot of unnecessary stress to the gear.]Hey guys,
Before I decided to install the oil pan again I wanted to check if the oil pump was an original since I have had read the following online:
￼"Excessive distributor gear wear can be a problem with Ford engines. Most of the time, the problem is a result from the use of a high volume oil pump. High volume oil pumps put a lot of stress on the distributor and cam gears. A high volume oil pump is not necessary on a street driven engine that turns no more than 7000 rpms. Only extreme racing engines require the high volume pump. Should you use this type of oil pump, the following precautions will save your distributor gear from early destruction."
Turns out we actually have a HV pump:
View attachment 762435
Do you guys think this can be the cause of the problem?
Well your gloom and doom about MSD has me wondering about the hundreds of thousands of miles I put on engines, running MSD stuff, with no failures. HmmmmmmHmmm… Now you have me wondering. When I rebuilt my 289HP in 1981, I installed a TRW HV pump. That was more than 200,000 miles ago.
You might want to zoom onto the images I posted, it's small but it's there.I don’t see anything that looks bad on that distributor gear. Did you use marking paint and check the witness marks after installing the new distributor gear? It’s funny how it’s common practice on a differential, but nobody seems to want to do it on a distributor. I always do it.
If the timing chain broke, be prepared for more carnage. You’re going to want to make sure the valves didn’t hit the pistons.
Thanks again for the clear explaination LSG. Do you think it would be best to disassemble the engine as a while or would be replacing the cam, lifters and possibly the timing chain be enough?Steve, the timing chain could have broken, the drive pin in the end of the cam could have sheared, or the key in the crank snout could have sheared or come out. But, you have to remember, your engine was assembled with at least SOME junk parts. Look at your camshaft pictures. The little pockmarks on the cam lobes tell us the cam was probably rusty and should have been discarded. What ELSE was done wrong, who knows.
But, just for a minute, lets get back to the HV oilpump. It is NOT causing your problem. Yes, there are people who don't know what they are talking about that think that HV pumps hurt cam gears. What I'm telling you, with 35 yrs engine shop experience, is that the HV pumps are not the problem. In the strictest possible sense, the HV pump pushes out 20 % more oil, so it could increase the load by 20%. But that is not a life VS death issue when the gears and drive are strong enough to withstand several hundred pounds of force. Go out to the garage and do a little test. Get a 5 pound bar, and do a couple of presses, weightlifter style. Then get a six pound bar and do the same. Can you even feel the difference ? And your camshaft gear and distributor drive are LOTS stronger than you are.
Yes, I know there are people who have anecdotal stories of problems, some of them personal. Did those folks work for a machine shop owner with 35 yrs of experience ? I'll bet not. There ARE however, lots of engines assembled with incorrect oiling, the wrong assembled height, incompatible parts, or just plain junk parts. Many home builds are not even CLOSE to clean enough inside. The fact that the engine had a bronze gear in it, and that fact alone, tells us that at least SOME of the parts were chosen incorrectly. The rust pockets and chips on the cam tell us at least SOME of the parts were junk. Sorry. LSG