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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone out there help me learn more about the `choke stove' and if I my pony will run without it.

I have single exhaust on the 302 in my 66 and have found a leak in the right side (where the choke stove operates). Finding a pair of hi-po exhaust on and seeing a chance to improve effeciency I decided to make the purchase.

When they arrived I noticed two things 1. casting #s dont match and #2 hi-po exhaust does not permit for choke stove application...humm..See my problem.

So I looked up my collection of MM August 91 and found a great article on how to Plumb the choke stove. That little heat chamber, a metal tube which directs warm air from the exhaust manifold to the choke cover. Makes cold morning starts less challenging.

So here I am with these hi-po manifolds and I wonder if I made the right choice. (is that really guilt for spending so much money?)

So on to the question Bill...will my mustang run properly if I just cap the damm thing off? As was suggested earlier in this forum.

Since I only plan to drive on warm summer days, which are too few here in Maine will I experience any real problem w/out the choke stove?

Other good advise from a VMF post included the suggestion to fabricate a choke stove (mine is in poor shape) and wrap it arround the newly installed hi-po exhaust. The thought being that this would supply enough warm are to the carburator. Which sounds like a reasonable solution to me, being the novice I am.

So jump in here and tell me your thoughts.
Did I overshoot and should I have just bought the original right side exhaust (about $75.) and rebuilt the damm choke stove.

Did I make the right decision on the pair I bought (even if # dont match)

Or, anyone out there want to buy a pair of really nice hi-po exhaust manifolds?

Summer is going fast...Thanks for all your help,
Bill in Maine

Gone but never forgotten
25,239 Posts
You only need the choke when the engine is cold, and moreso when the wheather AND engine are cold. The car will run just fine without the stove, once it's warmed up.

Another alternative is to switch to an electric choke.

I'd keep the Hipo manifolds. The original non-hipo manifolds are extremely restrictive.

460 Posts
The HIPO manifolds didn't have matching numbers (C3OZ drivers side and C5ZZ passenger side)IIRC. A few years back I put a set of tri-ys on my 66 coupe. A local Ford dealer made a choke tube that went to a aluminum piece that is held on the header with a raiator clamp, I know that my car was easier to start after the automatic choke was working. The HIPO manifolds were designed for a manual choke carb.

Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The choke stove likes to break off of standard manifolds, thus, the aftermarket has kits to fix this problem. They clamp onto the exhaust pipe right at the manifold exit. I think they use these for header applications also.

I have one of these on my car, installed by to PO because it broke off in the manifold.

You could also go to manual choke. They make conversion kits for most carbs.
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