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I put a 98 explorer 8.8 differential in my 65, I hooked up the parking brake but it barely holds my car. What have everyone else done with their 8.8 parking brake?
 

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It has a star wheel to adjust the shoes just like drum brakes. Tighten the wheel until the shoes just barely drag the drum (rotor).
 

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The issue is one of leverage, enough to truly engage the exploder brakes which were engineered for a truck foot pedal, not a small car under dash pull arm. The difference in the amount of force that can be brought to bear is significant between the two types. I've heard of lengthening the dog leg arm under the car to increase leverage (resulting in at least one custom length cable I suppose), no biggie if you can devise it. Some go with a center mount pull handle (like Lokar, for instance) and say they work okay. I need to address this myself as my explorer parking brakes (even after being re-built and adjusted) don't hold well at all. I've looked into this problem off and on but haven't decided how I'll deal with it yet, but will do something this summer. There have been a few threads on this subject here at VMF, worth searching for.
 

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I have a tunnel mounted parking brake lever from a Fox body in my '65 and it activates Explorer parking brake shoes that work just fine.
 

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I have a tunnel mounted parking brake lever from a Fox body in my '65 and it activates Explorer parking brake shoes that work just fine.
So do I, and it doesn’t. I devised a great little bracket for the cable ends that works great with the lever poking through the backing plate, but it definitely doesn’t hold like it should. I’m definitely open to ideas if you can share.

Part of the problem is that I ditched the equalizer bar on the transmission mount when I went to the T5. That might be part of my issue.
 

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So do I, and it doesn’t. I devised a great little bracket for the cable ends that works great with the lever poking through the backing plate, but it definitely doesn’t hold like it should. I’m definitely open to ideas if you can share.
I have a '65 that uses a different style yoke at the adjuster than the '66 uses. The '65 style has 2 individual cables while the '66 has 1 cable. This '65 yoke fits on the threaded adjuster rod from the Fox handle exactly like it fit on the original adjusting rod. I cut the forward end off of the Explorer cables and spliced them to the '65 cables with 1/8" cable clamps.

For some reason my driveshaft has a extra ring around the yoke and the adjuster hits it.
You must be using an Explorer driveshaft. They have that balancing ring on the front yoke. Replace that yoke with an older yoke that doesn't have the balancing ring.
 

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Honestly, I carry a 6" piece of 2"x4" in all my cars that I set under the wheel on the downhill side wherever I park. On the side of the block clearly written in black sharpie is 'Parking Brake'. I'm dead serious too!! My '65 GT rolled across a parking lot, missed multiple cars, and came to a stop roughly 6' from going into a pond. What stopped it was a groundhog hole in the dirt- otherwise it was headed for a bath!! The blocks give me piece of mind... lol
 

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The blocks give me piece of mind... lol
For some reason my cars like to give me a "piece" of their mind when I'm working on them and it's usually something I don't want to hear. When the job's all finished it gives me "peace" of mind to know that they're ready to go again.
 

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So do I, and it doesn’t. I devised a great little bracket for the cable ends that works great with the lever poking through the backing plate, but it definitely doesn’t hold like it should. I’m definitely open to ideas if you can share.
The only reason I haven't dealt with mine yet is I've had it with laying on my back under the damned car. Fortunately, super VMF member and all around good guy Dan Babb has this awesome lift in his shop and is gonna let me use it in a few weeks when his build goes out for paint. I'm in the same boat as you, ideas are welcome.
 

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It has a star wheel to adjust the shoes just like drum brakes. Tighten the wheel until the shoes just barely drag the drum (rotor).
Yeah, and those star wheels aren't all that easy to get to either. If it helps anyone though, I have in my notes that on the driver's side you turn the star wheel down to tighten and on the passenger side you turn it up to tighten. If you don't have a special tool for this a paint can opener works good on the driver's side (pull/turn wheel down) and a longish thin screw driver on the pass. side (push/turn wheel up).
754899
 

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As stated, the issue is how to generate enough force without braking the stock cable, but it is also how to generate enough movement. The Exploders use the foot pedal system just like the 69 and up mustangs. You can generate a lot more force using the foot pedal.

I have switched my setup to use rollers instead of the little bent bar (idler it is called) and equalizer to reduce the effort. Even perfectly adjusted so the shoes just start to drag, I am not getting enough cable movement to hold the car on a hill. If I adjust it more, the shoes drag quite a lot, but I am getting to the point I am afraid I will break the factory cable from the handle to the equalizer.

People have suggested moving the pivot point or moving the point where the equalizer bar attaches outward away from the pivot to get more movement. But I think I will just end up breaking the cable as the force required also goes up.


754891



I am open to ideas if you have them.

One I had was to use a dual pulley setup to reduce the required force. The Load would be the emerg cable running to the brakes and the Effort side would be the emerg brake handle side. But the space to do this is quite a lot.


754896
 

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Dimples
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Yeah, and those star wheels aren't all that easy to get to either. If it helps anyone though, I have in my notes that on the driver's side you turn the star wheel down to tighten and on the passenger side you turn it up to tighten. If you don't have a special tool for this a paint can opener works good on the driver's side (pull/turn wheel down) and a longish thin screw driver on the pass. side (push/turn wheel up).
View attachment 754899
Very helpful, thanks!
 

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Here's how I did my Explorer parking brake cables.

1) Installed a tunnel mounted parking brake handle from a Fox body. It came out of an '84 IIRC. I cut out the section of tunnel that it mounts to. It has a "bowl" that the handle mechanism sits down inside. I cut out a section of the original tunnel and welded in the Fox section.
2) The original cable brackets that are spot welded to the underside of the tunnel were too far forward now so I drilled out the spot welds and moved them aft. These brackets hold the end of the outer cable housing with a clip.
3) I used the original '65 cable equalizer on the Fox tension adjusting rod. This equalizer is designed to capture a ball swaged onto the end of each brake cable. If you have a '66 car you will need to buy this equalizer.
4) The Explorer cables are far too long for the Mustang. Cut the ball ends off of the forward end of the cable and pull the inner cable out of the outer housing. Attach the outer housing to the Explorer brakes. Route the housing to the brackets that are spot welded to the floorpan and mark where they need to be cut for the proper length. Take the housings out of the car and use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the cable. Use a wire wheel to "grind" the outer rubber sheath away from the steel housing. The fitting on the end of the cable that locks into the bracket is swaged onto the steel housing and can't be reused. The steel housing is 3/8" OD. I called this shop and told them what I needed and they fixed me up with the end fittings.
I used JB Weld to attach the fittings to the cable housing. Push the inner cable back through the outer housing and install the cables in the car.
5) I used 1/8" cable clamps (2 per cable) to splice the Explorer cables that now have no swaged ball on the end to a section of the original Mustang cables that have the balls. After overlapping the cables and clamping them together I trimmed off the excess cable.

Sorry, no photos. My car is too low to the ground to get underneath for photos.
 

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65 Fastback 289 4 spd, 65 convertible 5.0L 5 spd. 3.73 8.8
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I put a 98 explorer 8.8 differential in my 65, I hooked up the parking brake but it barely holds my car. What have everyone else done with their 8.8 parking brake?
I have an 8.8 out of an Explorer. I bought new shoes, adjusters, springs, drums/rotors, 2 new right side explorer cables and used the original pull, front cable, equalizer. Mine is a convertible so I figured the distance and made a bracket to bolt to the center plate. I think I cut 7 rings off of the new cables to the backing plates, that will take away the tension required to pull the brakes. Those springs are really stiff for Explorer foot pedal. I had spent some time to get it just right, but it does work.
 

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65 Fastback 289 4 spd, 65 convertible 5.0L 5 spd. 3.73 8.8
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What do you mean cut rings out?
The springs on the cable at the backing plate end. It is awful stiff. mark it with a marker straight from the end of it and cut the spring 7 coils and remove them. the cable will end up being longer then the housing from original, but it will be not as hard to pull.
 
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