I recently changed my '67 from a 2-core to 3-core radiator.
I went to local parts store to pickup a generic 2-1/4" spacer
to replace my factory 3" part. There must be a couple
common sizes for the snout on the water pump because both
the Hayden and Derale I looked at had a larger diameter
female pilot hole than the Mustang water pump but both
included a bushing / insert that made everything mate
together properly. Maybe that is what OP is seeing?
A factory Ford fan spacer does not need a bushing- the spacer is machined to fit on the water pump "nub" tightly.
Some aftermarket fan spacers may include a bushing because although most water pumps have a standard 5/8" "nub" there were some such as Y-block Fords that had a larger "nub". The aftermarket suppliers may or may not machine the hole for the nub to the larger size and then include a bushing to use that spacer on the smaller nub. I just bought a Hayden spacer earlier this week and it was machined for the smaller nub. If I wanted to use it on a Y-block with the larger nub I would need to drill the hole larger.
I did a 4r70w swap in my 66 coupe. One of the issues that I'm having is the parking brake is in the way/doesn't fit correctly/rubbing.
Since I moved the trans mount to the rear for the 4r70w, the current configuration doesn't work. I've added a pipe nipple to the adjuster but it's just not...
Well, not really dangerously hot, just hotter than I think it should be. For some history, 8 years ago it was running about the same temp as it is noe. I took the radiator in to a local radiator shop, and he cleaned out, but did not rod it out. After that it ran as cool as I feel it should...
On my 66 mustang, I did a CSRP power disc brake conversion.
I'm ready to road test my new motor and trans (331 stroker and 4r70w trans) install. But I've got a concern.
When I installed the csrp disc brake conversion, I power bleed the system (and I prebled the master cylinder) The pedal felt...
My 66 coupe originally was a 6cyl.
Well, I had my new dual exhaust and X pipe installed last week. Exhaust guy told me that he had to zip tie the brake line out of the way, and I'll need to flip the bracket or make a new one. Crawled underneath and sure enough the rear rubber brake line to the...
I replaced front brake lines and had booster, MC and distribution block professionally rebuilt. I can lock up rear drums but not front disc on an original 1967 GT fast back. So, I am guessing rear proportioning valve needs rebuild/replace as well. I bought Classic Tube set from NPD for the whole...