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Father/Son 66 Coupe Restomod

18417 Views 71 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  rbtconsultants
My son is 15 and he really wanted a vintage mustang as his first car. I didn't want to deal with a rust bucket, but I didn't want to buy a "finished" runner either. I wanted something he and I could restomod and make it look vintage while having it modern under the skin. I wanted him to have something safe and reliable, with some of the creature comforts his friends cars have, while still having it be a muscle car that would stand out above his friends tweakers and beemers.

So, we looked around a bit, and found this on craigslist for $2500. We started on it November, and we've made quite a bit of progress. I've been taking pics all along the way, and he's been bugging me to blog it somewhere, and this forum has been my favorite resource, so I decided to blog it here.

In coming posts, I'll add the pics of our progress. The metal in the front and interior was pretty much replaced when we bought it, so good floors, new toe pans, firewall, cowl, aprons, shock towers, fenders. As I'll show upcoming, there was rust in the trunk/quarters/framerails but we have since dealt with that.

One thing I liked was that it was partially disassembled, interior was out and engine was out so a lot of that hassle was already done.

So, more to come, but for now, here are the original Craigslist photos.







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Just to close the loop, Borgeson confirmed for me that external stops are not necessary, and the internal stops can be relied on without damage concern.

Bob
I am following along for continuing education on my restomod and to live vicariously through someone who can do the father/son project.

Nice work!
Now that the engine is in, we back to moving towards our goal of "Stop, Go, Steer". Started with steering. Since we had new suspension in the front, we also put new tie rods on, and added a Borgeson Power Steering box. To do that, we needed to cut down the steering column, and use a new, short Borgeson shaft, along with a Borgeson Rag Joint. We also added a lower column bearing setup from Mustang Steve to keep things stable and tight and smooth.

Here's a couple pics. You can see the hydroboost and Hydraulic clutch master being dry fitted in these, but we'll get more detail on them later:





Oh, here's a pic showing that the Borgeson box didn't exactly center itself in the firewall hole. This was not an issue with the firewall hole, but it caused me to have to jigger a bit with the column bracket plate you see in this pic to get it to fit to the firewall after the column was hooked up to the steering box.

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A little more detail on the Hydraulic clutch and Hydroboost.

The hydraulic clutch is a slave setup from Daze. I originally used the master from Daze also, but I didn't like the plastic reservoir setup, so I replaced the master with this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11972. It's got a 13/16 bore and 1.4" stroke, so plenty of fluid volume to operate the clutch slave. You can see it tucked in here under the hydroboost, braided steel line to the slave:



The Hydroboost and master cylinder were off of a 2000 mustang, picked up last summer at Carlisle. The hydroboost had its own challenges, and I fiddled with a few different scenarios to get it where I wanted it.

I originally cut down the bracket that was on the hydroboost and drilled it so it would be bolted in by the firewall bolts that hold the pedal support to the firewall. However, since it held the hyrdroboost at an upward angle, it didn't line up with the brake pedal pin. Some folks have moved it up on the firewall but I didn't, instead I got a flat bracket from Tallon hydraulics to mount it level.

Of course, now that it was level, it interfered with the Hydraulic clutch master. To resolve that, we rotated (clocked it) so that there was room for the clutch master. To do that, I had to grind the notch out of the Tallon bracket so it would rotate.

Then, with it rotated, the brake master was no longer level. To resolve that I decided to go with a remote brake reservoir. I got my hands on a Mercury Villager master and remote reservoir, but the master would have needed massaging to fit, so I decided to use the remote reservoir with the Mustang hydroboost master.

I was a bit concerned that the brake master might have clearance issues with the shock tower, but after fitting everything, it has a sold 1/2" of clearance without being tilted upward, so yeehah!

Ultimately, I decided I didn't like the villager plastic reservoir setup either, so I ordered some master cylinder remote billet reservoir nipples from Lodestone Billetworks. Then we ordered a billet CNC remote reservoir setup.

Here's some pics of the whole setup. Power steering hoses still aren't hooked up yet, and we're going to replace the black rubber remote reservoir lines with braided lines, but you get the idea. In this first pic, you can see the hydroboost setup, with the hydraulic clutch master, and the borgeson box, all tucked in to that small amount on real estate in the corner of the engine bay. Also, just lying there is the proportioning valve/distribution block for the brakes, which has since been installed along with all the brake lines, (but I need to get some pics of that):



Here's an overall look at the engine bay, with the remote reservoirs installed and plumbed temporarily with black rubber hoses:



And, here's a pic of the clutch and hydroboost pushrods poking through on the inside of the firewall, waiting for pedal installation:

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So, I need to get and post a few pics of the brake line setups in the engine bay and on the front discs, but here's a couple pics of the brakeline setup in the rear. We switched the rear distribution block/bracket to the one for dual exhaust, since we'll be going that way:





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Super thread !!!! Nothing better than a Dad/son project. I've enjoyed reading and looking at the progress and improvements you've made so far. Best of luck as you move forward, and thanks for sharing :thumbsup:

Bossed
Love the remote reservoirs. Where did you get them?
The reservoirs are CNC. Here's the link: CNC, Inc. - Accessories

I bought them in October from autoplicity for around$150.

I like billet stuff :)

Bob
Bob, excellent write up! I like seeing father son/daughter projects.

Regarding the CPP LCA ball joint issue. I also have this kit. Mine had the same results as yours. The spindle is down too far on the ball joint! I'm not pleased at all with how CPP responded to this issue with me. However, I purchased the sleeve adapters from them for $6 each (4 required). These sleeves corrected the offset issue.
HTH
g
Thanks dieselman. What are the sleeve adapters? Are they different than the spacers they gave me for the castle nuts (I only have two of them because I only bought the lca's, the uca ball joints from open tracker fit the spindle fine). Are they like cones that fit over the ball joint taper to make it fit better? I don't see anything on their web site, do you have to call them? They didn't mention them when I called before to ask about the ball joint to spindle fitment. They charged you for adapters to make their product work correctly?

Thanks much,

Bob
Nice build!

I often wish that my son had shown the least bit of interest in a project car when he was still at home… then again, I'm not crazy about the hobbies my father is into either!

I'm hoping for an interested grandchild or niece/nephew….
Thanks dieselman. What are the sleeve adapters? Are they different than the spacers they gave me for the castle nuts (I only have two of them because I only bought the lca's, the uca ball joints from open tracker fit the spindle fine). Are they like cones that fit over the ball joint taper to make it fit better? I don't see anything on their web site, do you have to call them? They didn't mention them when I called before to ask about the ball joint to spindle fitment. They charged you for adapters to make their product work correctly?

Thanks much,

Bob
Hi Bob."sleeve adapters' are what I called them. there are small tapered cones that fit over the ball joint taper. This relocates the ball joint lower into the spindle - where they belong. I primed mine and used plenty of anti-seize when installing them.

Yes, they DO charge you more to make their kit work!!
Yes, you have to call them - be prepared for them to say that this has only happened on a couple of cars. IMHO, they use the wrong ball joints.
Since you already have 2, they should be all you need.

I've attached a couple of pictures of the "sleeve" and one of the install. Let me know if you need anything else.
g

Attachments

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So, I contacted CPP and they are sending the sleeves. I'll report back on the outcome.

Thanks,

Bob
So the sleeves arrived. They look exactly like the pic above. CPP did not charge me for them. Now we just have to wait out the polar vortex to install them. I'll take pics when we put them in.

Bob
Wow, your son is a luck SOB!!! lol My dad was a gearhead and never even considered getting me into a project like that. We had a 70 Mustang Roller for a year that I wanted badly but when we moved he just sent it the junkyard...I was PISSED!!! I was like 12 and all i wanted was that car lol,,, I might of had an obsession brewing. Great work though. I just read through the whole thread
Nice build! I love the hydro boost brakes. Just have one question is that chevy orange on the motor?
The motor has hemi orange on it right now. That's the color the boy wanted to paint it. It's interesting trying to strike a balance between the vintage nature of the car and the the tastes of a 16 yo boy in the 21st century. The color of the motor isn't high on my list of things I want to debate with him.

Bob
So the sleeves arrived. They look exactly like the pic above. CPP did not charge me for them. Now we just have to wait out the polar vortex to install them. I'll take pics when we put them in.

Bob
Just one more reason why I will give them ZERO of my future business! They charge some customers and not others for the same item which IS REQUIRED???
POOR customer service....
Yeah, Dieslman. I'm really grateful you chimed in on this thread and let me know those adapters exist.

The whole things seems a bit weird to me. When I first contacted them months ago they told me not to worry, they won't bind, no problems. Then when I contacted them after your post, it took a couple weeks to get a good response from them. I emailed them several times and left voicemails.

Then they finally respond with "no problem, we'll send them right out", which they did. An invoice for 0$ was included, and it stated that they were left out of the kit "unintentionally" as if they should have been included. The guy did ask me for my invoice from when I ordered the subframe kit to confirm I had purchased it from them before he sent them, so maybe that's why they didn't charge me.

I don't know, they don't seem to be trying too hard from a customer services standpoint. When I ordered the mini-subframe, I also ordered a 1" sway bar from them for the front/ They sent me one for the rear. I had to return that and wait for them to receive it and send me the correct one. They did pay for shipping both ways so props for that. It's a good thing I wasn't waiting urgently for the sway bar.

So, I have mixed feelings. In the end, the kit seems really nice, and they did get things ironed out, although it took more time and effort than it probably should have.

Bob
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I have a lot of catching up to do on this blog on our progress. I will post a couple things. First, here's a pic of the CPP suspension with the taper sleeve installed on the ball joint. Looks great now. Suspension in the front completely rebuilt with CPP mini subframe LCAs, progressive rate springs, OpenTracker upper LCAs, roller perches, KYB Gas-a-just shocks



On Easter Sunday, the 66 Coupe rose from the dead. First time in 30 years it drove under its own power.

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