This is awesome.
I am needing to sound deaden the interior like you've done. How was the process?
I am needing to sound deaden the interior like you've done. How was the process?
Father/Son 66 Coupe Restomod
My son is 15 and he really wanted a vintage mustang as his first car. I didn't want to deal with a rust bucket, but I didn't want to buy a "finished" runner either. I wanted something he and I could restomod and make it look vintage while having it modern under the skin. I wanted him to have something safe and reliable, with some of the creature comforts his friends cars have, while still having it be a muscle car that would stand out above his friends tweakers and beemers.
So, we looked around a bit, and found this on craigslist for $2500. We started on it November, and we've made quite a bit of progress. I've been taking pics all along the way, and he's been bugging me to blog it somewhere, and this forum has been my favorite resource, so I decided to blog it here.
In coming posts, I'll add the pics of our progress. The metal in the front and interior was pretty much replaced when we bought it, so good floors, new toe pans, firewall, cowl, aprons, shock towers, fenders. As I'll show upcoming, there was rust in the trunk/quarters/framerails but we have since dealt with that.
One thing I liked was that it was partially disassembled, interior was out and engine was out so a lot of that hassle was already done.
So, more to come, but for now, here are the original Craigslist photos.
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So, we looked around a bit, and found this on craigslist for $2500. We started on it November, and we've made quite a bit of progress. I've been taking pics all along the way, and he's been bugging me to blog it somewhere, and this forum has been my favorite resource, so I decided to blog it here.
In coming posts, I'll add the pics of our progress. The metal in the front and interior was pretty much replaced when we bought it, so good floors, new toe pans, firewall, cowl, aprons, shock towers, fenders. As I'll show upcoming, there was rust in the trunk/quarters/framerails but we have since dealt with that.
One thing I liked was that it was partially disassembled, interior was out and engine was out so a lot of that hassle was already done.
So, more to come, but for now, here are the original Craigslist photos.
4
61 - 72 of 72 Posts
The process was more difficult than we imagined. My son did all the work while I did other things. He spent easily 18-20 hours, although he claims he could probably do it in half the time if he had to do it again, based on what he learned as he went.
That time includes the Eastwood mat, the closed cell foam, and the mass loaded vinyl on the floor from top of firewall to top of rear trunk divider. Still haven't done anything with the doors, kick panels, quarter trim panels, sail panels or roof
He went a bit OCD on the eastwood butyl/aluminum mat, and it took a long time to tape all the seams with aluminum tape. We know you don't need to cover every square inch for the mat to be effective, but he was reading how the Eastwood mat can ooze a bit in the heat and the solution is to make sure all the edges are taped, so he just went for 100% coverage.
The closed cell foam turned out to be more difficult than anticipated. We figured it would do compound curves easily, but turns out it just bunches. Also he used spray adhesive to put the foam down, and he apparently regrets that. I think his problem was he was trying to make it too perfect and he was impatient waiting for the adhesive to set before he placed the foam.
The mass loaded vinyl he started using the spray adhesive too, and that was a trainwreck. That stuff is thick and does not mold well at all. Turned out to be much better to cut out a piece and slice/overlap it to create compound curves and Tyvek tape the edges to the foam. Then overlap the next piece on that and tape it.
So, skip the spray adhesive, and use tyvek tape for the foam and the vinyl.
Here's a couple pics of the Mass Load Vinyl going in. No pics of the closed cell foam, but you can see it peeking through in places.
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That time includes the Eastwood mat, the closed cell foam, and the mass loaded vinyl on the floor from top of firewall to top of rear trunk divider. Still haven't done anything with the doors, kick panels, quarter trim panels, sail panels or roof
He went a bit OCD on the eastwood butyl/aluminum mat, and it took a long time to tape all the seams with aluminum tape. We know you don't need to cover every square inch for the mat to be effective, but he was reading how the Eastwood mat can ooze a bit in the heat and the solution is to make sure all the edges are taped, so he just went for 100% coverage.
The closed cell foam turned out to be more difficult than anticipated. We figured it would do compound curves easily, but turns out it just bunches. Also he used spray adhesive to put the foam down, and he apparently regrets that. I think his problem was he was trying to make it too perfect and he was impatient waiting for the adhesive to set before he placed the foam.
The mass loaded vinyl he started using the spray adhesive too, and that was a trainwreck. That stuff is thick and does not mold well at all. Turned out to be much better to cut out a piece and slice/overlap it to create compound curves and Tyvek tape the edges to the foam. Then overlap the next piece on that and tape it.
So, skip the spray adhesive, and use tyvek tape for the foam and the vinyl.
Here's a couple pics of the Mass Load Vinyl going in. No pics of the closed cell foam, but you can see it peeking through in places.
2
Getting the carpet and seats in. Got the driver seat in and took it for a short ride last night. First time it felt like driving a car instead of an experiment
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2
Also, I thought I'd show a few pics of the underside. Two coats of rust encapsulator, seam sealer, two coats of extreme chassis black.
Exhaust system was installed by us. Welded the h pipe to "header buddies" ball connectors, makes for nice fit/seal to the tri-Ys. Had a pair of custom "s" pipes made for the end of the tailpipes to get the tailpipes through the valance correctly.
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Exhaust system was installed by us. Welded the h pipe to "header buddies" ball connectors, makes for nice fit/seal to the tri-Ys. Had a pair of custom "s" pipes made for the end of the tailpipes to get the tailpipes through the valance correctly.
6
Time for another update. So, we took the car to be inspected and aligned, to a local place that has some specialization in classic restoration and repair. PA state inspection can be tough, but we got it first time
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No emissions inspection required, so that's good. They didn't have time to align it, so they asked me to bring it back the next day. No problem I said.
So, talk about a bad day. I drive it down for alignment, with my wife following to take me home. This is going to be in and out, so I have a pair of house moccasins on and no jacket. It's cold and raining. I pull into the parking lot, it backfires and stalls. Hmmm. Weird, I thought. I try to restart it, no dice. Very weird, it always starts.
I keep trying, no dice. I need to get it out of the middle of the parking lot, so I get a guy to help roll it backwards. It starts moving a little quickly, so I jump in the drivers seat to hit the brake. I hit the clutch instead and the open drivers door catches a pole and the hinges overextend. Great, so I'm wet and cold, the car won't start and the door won't close now.
I ended up saying screw the alignment, and had the car towed back to our garage so my son and I could assess. It didn't look bad sitting on the tow truck
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No emissions inspection required, so that's good. They didn't have time to align it, so they asked me to bring it back the next day. No problem I said.
So, talk about a bad day. I drive it down for alignment, with my wife following to take me home. This is going to be in and out, so I have a pair of house moccasins on and no jacket. It's cold and raining. I pull into the parking lot, it backfires and stalls. Hmmm. Weird, I thought. I try to restart it, no dice. Very weird, it always starts.
I keep trying, no dice. I need to get it out of the middle of the parking lot, so I get a guy to help roll it backwards. It starts moving a little quickly, so I jump in the drivers seat to hit the brake. I hit the clutch instead and the open drivers door catches a pole and the hinges overextend. Great, so I'm wet and cold, the car won't start and the door won't close now.
I ended up saying screw the alignment, and had the car towed back to our garage so my son and I could assess. It didn't look bad sitting on the tow truck
2
So, it turns out that the whole starting problem was that the distributor rotor broke and lost it's electrode, so no spark. &$% 7$ part caused all that. New rotor and it starts right up.
The door turned out to not be a big issue either. It was pushed forward a bit into the fender, and it was low at the back end so it didn't close correctly. However, researching I discovered a suggest "old school body man's" trick to jam something in the hinge (we used a 3/4" socket) and then apply pressure as if closing the door. this forces the pillar to bend back and puts the door back in alignment. Read up on "fixing sprung door" by searching. This REALLY worked.
So, we drop off the car again to get aligned, and it is there for a few days before they get to it. It's finally done Friday morning, so I go to pick it up. It drives Great, a little bit of return to center issue with the Borgeson but really handles well.
However, there is this knock/rattle that wasn't there before. I'm cursing, saying that's what happens when you let someone else work on your car. I bring it back to them, and we put it up on the lift. The sound actually sounds like it coming from the bellhousing. Then I try to remember. a year and a half ago when we mated the trans to the engine before we put everything in the car, did I remember to torque the flywheel bolts? I remember snugging them, and then thinking I needed to get the torque wrench to tighten them up, but don't remember actually doing it. Augh.
So, we get it home, remove the exhaust, drop the trans, take off the bellhousing, remove the clutch and sure enough the flywheel bolts are loose.
So we had time to tear it down, but not to reassemble. My son is annoyed with me because we have been trying to get it inspected and aligned so he can drive it for 3 weeks, and this one is all on me.
Hopefully he'll be driving it this week. Here's a few pics of it in my driveway, ready to run as soon as we put the trans back in. Plenty more to do for sure, but at least it can become a rolling project.
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The door turned out to not be a big issue either. It was pushed forward a bit into the fender, and it was low at the back end so it didn't close correctly. However, researching I discovered a suggest "old school body man's" trick to jam something in the hinge (we used a 3/4" socket) and then apply pressure as if closing the door. this forces the pillar to bend back and puts the door back in alignment. Read up on "fixing sprung door" by searching. This REALLY worked.
So, we drop off the car again to get aligned, and it is there for a few days before they get to it. It's finally done Friday morning, so I go to pick it up. It drives Great, a little bit of return to center issue with the Borgeson but really handles well.
However, there is this knock/rattle that wasn't there before. I'm cursing, saying that's what happens when you let someone else work on your car. I bring it back to them, and we put it up on the lift. The sound actually sounds like it coming from the bellhousing. Then I try to remember. a year and a half ago when we mated the trans to the engine before we put everything in the car, did I remember to torque the flywheel bolts? I remember snugging them, and then thinking I needed to get the torque wrench to tighten them up, but don't remember actually doing it. Augh.
So, we get it home, remove the exhaust, drop the trans, take off the bellhousing, remove the clutch and sure enough the flywheel bolts are loose.
So we had time to tear it down, but not to reassemble. My son is annoyed with me because we have been trying to get it inspected and aligned so he can drive it for 3 weeks, and this one is all on me.
Hopefully he'll be driving it this week. Here's a few pics of it in my driveway, ready to run as soon as we put the trans back in. Plenty more to do for sure, but at least it can become a rolling project.
4
61 - 72 of 72 Posts
