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Discussion Starter #1
I have enjoyed all the wisdom available on the variuos FE forumns. I have a cronic low oil pressure problem on a fresh 352 rebuild. Main and rod clearance is .001 to .0015. I'm running 10-40w and a melling HV pump. In the morning, about 60DEGF, I get 60 PSI at 1,000 RPM. Has the engine heats up, idle pressure drops to 5 PSI. Here are the readings at 185DEGF engine temp.
Idle 5 PSI, 1000RPM 10PSI, 1500 18PSI, 2000 28PSI, 2500 39PSI, 4000RPM 50PSI. All readings from a calibrated guage. Rocker shafts are remanufactured. At idle, the shafts are dripping oil but not "running" oil. At idle, I get an occasional oil light. The engine runs good and there is no valve train noise. Melling tech support advises they suspect engine clearance issues. The original brake-in went bad as a had a cam lobe go flat. On teardown, I found cam bearing #3 totally destroyed. I tore down the engine, cleaned it and installed new bearings, using the poper tools. The new cam turned freely. When the second cam broke in, I had 80PSI, at 3500RPM, at first. As the engine warmed up, pressure dropped.

I need to get back on to my twin turbo Mustang Fastback project so I'm thinking about using 20-50W and forgetting about this for a while. The truck is a ranch truck with occasional use. This FE has taken way to much time. I could have rebuilt three SBF fords in the time I spent on this truck engine. What a pain!
 

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Have you looked to see if the oil gallery plug is in place at the end of the lifter valley at the distributor gear? This plug could be out and overlooked. Some people drill a hole in it to lube the distributor gear. I am assuming that you have confirmed the pump to be good and you are using a good oil filter. The fact you had a cam failure on one of the bearings indicate you may still have some trouble in that area. You may have a cracked block or the new bearing has spun in the saddle. FE's seem to be pretty simple on how they oil, good luck to ya...
 
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Eric, I doubt if I'll be much help, due to my admitted lack of engine rebuilding knowledge but....
My FE had been using oil since its rebuild. The builder (Ray Miller 408-866-6661) suggested straight 30w stating that those old FE engines have clearance problems after rebuilds. My oil level seems stabilized now.
Ray only works on Fords so if there is a problem he's encountered it.

Just a suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Triple checked all oil gallery plugs. The pump was the one that went through the first cam failure. It looked good, no scoring that I could see. Cover plate had minor wear. I use FL-1A Motorcraft filters. The cam went in and turned well. If I had alignment issues, it would have shown up then, don't you think? Someone had mentioned that it is possible to get the oil filter adapter to block gasket in wrong. This is the only thing that I haven't checked. As far as a plan goes, maybe I should drop the pan and look for debris. I sure don't want to pull the engine for the third time!
 

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The thing that worries me is that the new cam bearing could have been loose and spun again once the motor was started. (the previous spun bearing would have rounded out the hole) It would spin out and create a direct oil leak because the clearances on that bearing are way out of wack. Except for the low oil pressure you may never have known about it...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Mike,
I called Ray and he was helpful. He suggested using 30W oil and reporting back what happens. Actually, I belive the manual suggests using 40W at the temperatures we have here in the Central Valley. I will confirm this and try some different oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The #3 bearing was severly worn but it had not spun. The oil hole was still lined up correctly. See my reply to KBMWRS post. Thanks!
 

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You can start by pulling the valve covers, fill the engine temporarily with 5W20 and run the oil pump with a 1/2" drill motor. Look for excessive flow around the rocker shafts. That isn't likely to be your issue, but the easiest to look for.
Next, pull the intake manifold and look real hard for that leak under the same test procedures.

It's a good deal harder - and messier - to do with the pan removed, but it can be done. It may get to that. You need to see where the oil is going -
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cosmo, What would be considered excessive flow?
 

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Did you put an oil restricter in the galley to the rocker arms? I read that the valve train gets too much oil and you should put a 0.10 inch restricter in to lessen the oil that gets to the valve train.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have read suggestions to use #90 holley jet or a gallery plug with 1/16 hole. The oil mod is usually reqd for racing applications where they are trying to reduce oil to the head. It wouldn't be much work to try this. I wonder what size gallery plug would be required?
 
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Hello,,,Jeff here.I am "assuming" that when the engine was rebuilt,the oil gallery passage in the block--from the pump side to the adaptor where the filter screws onto--was enlarged to at LEAST a 3/8 opening with a chamfer at the point where the pump gasket meets the block.The main feed oil passage was dismally small from the factory,,,,resulting in the oil pressure problems you describe.Also,,on the mains,,,the oil holes in the block side are halfway cut off by the inserts,,,,hopefully the block was chamfered at these points as well to make the mains get more oil.Hope this helps a bit.
 
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