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Discussion Starter #1
So I am going crazy doing my homework and have seriously been debating two approaches:

1) Being so fortunate to find a very complete Cyclone 390 engine I could just get the engine rebuilt and balanced with forged pistons and go with an Edelbrock Performer intake and matching performer-plus cam. I would use the stock GT 390 manifolds, stock heads with some minor porting, and mostly stock equivalent bolt-on's like fuel pump and water pump. I suppose I could rebuild the fuel pump I have if I got so inclined. I would also rebuild the Holley 600 CFM carb converting it to an electric choke.

2) I would get the engine rebuilt the same but I would go with the Performer RPM intake, cam and heads. I would also upgrade the rockers to roller rockers, I would get a larger Holley carb about 750 CFM, probably go with an aluminum water pump, matching fuel pump, and I would go with 428 CJ manifolds, I do not want to use headers.

I estimate option 2 would be about 100 more horsepower than option 1 at a cost of about $3,000 more.

If you have any ideas outside of 1 or 2 I am open to that as well. I would like to come up with a build plan and get started as soon as the rain stops so please let me know your thoughts.

I want a fast car with lot's of torque but do not plan on taking the car to the drag races.

Thanks
 

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If it were mine I would go with the aluminum heads for sure. FE heads were known to crack up by the spark plug hole.By the time you spend the money to rework a set your going to have over 1/2 the price of the aluminum heads and you still have cast heads. Aluminum will take alot of weight off the front of the car and are cheap horsepower.
 

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I would get a SCAT 4.125 crank and rods. That will make lots of torque. I would go with Edelbrock heads and have them ported. Stay away from the RPM cam...heard it is not that good of a cam. I would look into a roller cam if you can afford it. The performer RPM is a good intake. Your bottleneck will be the CJ exhaust manifolds, but this would be a great torquey motor and will give you 425 CI. There are a few other tricks you will want to do for oiling mods. PM or email me if you have questions, or check out www.fordfe.com and do some searches.
 

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I know I can't afford to put aluminum heads on my car so I envy your ability to have that choice. If I could afford it I would get them just to take the weight off of the front end (yes the added HP is a plus too!) I used most of my engine budget on a factory Shelby dual quad intake with new issue carbs. I too am going with the original manifolds (so far) since a) I have them, and b) they are the exact same part# manifolds that were actualy on a 67 Shelby (the clone I'm building) Yes I will take a hit in HP from my 428, but I never expect to need that extra 20HP and the "cool factor" of having original Shelby Manifolds, correct casting numbered heads, correct (as far as anyone can tell) 428 block, 1U crank and a Real Shelby Dual quad intake works for me. I will go with forged pistons and I may use lighter rods with ARP bolts. I will also do a little of my own porting by matching my gaskets and smoothing out the runners with the bigger valves and an agressive but not over the top cam. Can't afford any dyno time unless you count "I dyno if I'm gunna do another burnout or not." LOL
 

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I know I can't afford to put aluminum heads on my car.
So tell me again how much all them Shelby doodads cost? :joker: Hah hah, just pullin yer chain. You'll get a lot more fun out of the Shelby-ness than you'd ever get out of aluminum heads.
 

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You'll get a lot more fun out of the Shelby-ness than you'd ever get out of aluminum heads.
Sorry, but I'd rather have an aftermarket dual duad that looks the same as the C7ZX and flows better which allowed be to afford the aluminum heads. Nothing wrong with any way you build a FE motor...they all are gonna have plenty of power and stock looking is cool. I wanted more power and I got a smokin' deal on the heads and porting job so I couldn't refuse when I was comparing to what it would cost to build up a set of cast iron heads. And the weight savings is nice too.
 

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I know I can't afford to put aluminum heads on my car.
So tell me again how much all them Shelby doodads cost? :joker: Hah hah, just pullin yer chain. You'll get a lot more fun out of the Shelby-ness than you'd ever get out of aluminum heads.
LOL, I hear ya'

The intake I got is for a 67 Shelby which is really the medium riser 63 427 intake. The carbs, aircleaner and mounting kit are all brand new re-issue parts from Holley. This also came with one REAL 63 427 or 67 Shelby carb and a set of used Lemans valve covers all for about the price of a new Blue thunder reproduction unit. In my "cool factor" book, a pair of dual quads sitting on a real Shelby intake beats the aluninum heads and a 4bbl like a straight flush beats a pair. The rest of the stuff, I got REAL cheap, including all of my FE 4spd parts. The next big ticket item is machine work and rebuild parts. That's why I'm watching this thread for advice and tips. I'm also going with PS, so headers and PS sound like a nightmare to me. So I'll give up 20HP to be able to parellel park. ;)
 

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olddustyrelics,

Have you checked into FPA headers? They don't hang low like most aftermarket and they will work with 4 spd and PS. Sounds like you got a good deal on the dual quad intake and valve covers. Are you sure that is a MR intake? Medium Risers weren't available until 65. A 63 intake is probably a Low riser.

GTSCode...What is your budget on your engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Budget, I would like to keep it under $6,000 for the entire engine from carb to fuel and water pump. I could go more if it makes sense, I do not want to cut corners. Money is not my big concern I need to get a freaking clue about what I want the car to do. I want a nice driving fast car that doesn't run rough, a little lope is a good thing but not too much.

Thanks for the input so far.
 

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Talk to Doug Garifo in Clovis CA, he runs a shop called Performance Oil Pumps. My stroker kit was about 2300 with balancing. Of course I am doing all the work, but I bet you could build one heck of a motor for 6000 inlcuding whatever support parts you need

Doug is a big player in the FE parts and knows his strokers. Tell him Ross from Virginia sent you. His email is [email protected]
 
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