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Discussion Starter #1
As I start compiling all the metal for my rust project... Ive been reading endless threads about how crappy the repop fenders are and fit. Its also pretttttyyy tough to find reasonable original tin here in BC and the PNW...

The car isn't going to be show quality.. just a fun blast around restomod with a homegrown paint job. It is just a lowly option less '6 auto car... that'll have a 5.0L and C4...

Who has run 'glass fenders? On a street car? Are they reasonable? I mean.. a bit lighter, never worry about rust or rot or dents.. similar in price to the 'better' quality repop metal ones...

I've been looking at UP and a couple others.. including a company in oregon (I could pop down in a day and save the truck freight).

I also plan to run bumper less with a shelby front valance, 'glass thunderbolt style hood and maybe even a 'glass trunk lid.

Recommends on those are welcome as well!!
 

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Fit and finish is an issue with all the folks I know that have them. Can't speak to street use, but the track applications have issues with the paint cracking or spider webbing due to the flexing. I do have a FG hood and trunk lid that have worked great.
 

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A metal car has it's issues. Most issues of fit, finish and repair can all be addressed in similar manners. Certain rules apply.
Add fiberglass, or any other non-metal compound and you introduce a new set of rules to learn and follow. Getting them to fit properly or repairing them. Now you have gel coat, epoxy, metal inserts and their use added to your need to be aware of and use.
Unless you have a need for the light weight or visuals, I would avoid it. Especially on something bolted ridged to the uni-frame. Hoods and decklids can move and expand on the hinges without much flex. Fenders are bolted tight and flex with the body and different temps than metal.
 

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The fit of my metal repop fenders were so bad, it would have been easier for me to make the fiberglass ones fit. To get the fender to door gap right, on the passenger side, I had to add material to the fender. On the driver side, the fender was OK (except the top seam where the fender meets the cowl), but the repop door needed metal added to the edge.

I think it's a lot easier to add or remove material from the edges of a fiberglass panel.

With fiberglass fenders and the R-valance, maybe you could even get everything fit and probably bond them all together (assuming you'd be able to slide the fenders forward before lifting them off the car. It would be a 2 person job, but I think it would be nice to have the fenders to valance sections bonded without seams.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thats the thing though, this car is for FUN.. fit and finish I'm not super particular about. It'll probably roll around in just a quick garage sprayed Grey or white single stage for a few years...
 

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FWIW . . . I have a 66' restmod coupe . . . glass fenders, hood, deck lid (and end caps) and glass rear flairs. The fit and finish of the glass in NOT good. It took me (I'm going to guess) 100 -150 hours to get the glass to look right. They were all too small (deck and hood) and no where near level. ALL have lots of waves. So even if they don't rust there still a real pain to get fitted.

I have a 66' convertible I'm currently working on and repop metal is a pain in the a$$ but nothing compared to glass. If you want easy I would stick to the metal and just work it to get it right. Just my .02 cents worth! Mel
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Interesting to hear. I am going to run glass hood, valance and deck lid. Was just wondering if the fenders were ok, or complete garbage. Again, I'm sort of going for a trans am, old race car kind of look.
 

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You should be fine. You can get the look you want, just add some vintage race type stickers.
 

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So you have a 1965 Mustang not 68. Because, Mike Maier's Mustang had lightly flared front fenders on it back then. 2.5" flare, he sells them in the old blue kit. He was running 315/30/18's on all four corners on 18" x 11" rims. His Mustang looked really good with wide tires with huge back spacing. The spindles were welded up nascar style and was totally custom, they were tucked in and I believe the pivot point for the upper control arm was on top of the frame rail. So we can't have what we see in the pic here, unless somebody else has done it with just the 2.5 flare?
 

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Now remember that Mike Maiers old blue has no original ford suspension so it is unlikely you can run the same tires and wheels that he does.
 
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