You reminded me about a question i had, on priming the engine with the oil pump what kind of rod can I use, or do I need to take the gear off of the dist., on some of my other rebuilds I had an old Dist.,that I used but don't have 1 for this engine.
my 65 supposedly rebuilt 6 cylinder has sprouted an oil pond on the intake above numbers 4-6 cylinders. Also, the headbolt in the number 4 "pond" is putting out a bunch of bubbles, even with the engine off. Lest I think it is a valve cover gasket problem, there is water mixed in it and there is a nice slime of oil and water on my dipstick. Previously, the number 4 plug was oil fouled when I pulled it to replace. There is only about 500-600 miles on the supposed "rebuild". Do you have any ideas on what this might be, or how I can determine whether the head gasket is bad, block cracked, or head warped? Thanks.
on my 302, the oil pump drive shaft is hexagonal so I slipped a deep 1/4 inch socket, on an extension, duct taped to not fall off, then chucked the extension into my drill. Used a 1/4 inch drive extension and socket. Don't know about the size of the 6 cylidner oil pump drive shaft.
Hey, I've got a couple of questions since it appears that my straight 6 might be goofussed. First, does felpro make a headgasket for these engines? What brand head gasket did you use? Did you use rubber or cork gaskets for the valve cover/oil pan. Next, I just read here tonight that you are supposed to put some type of sealant on the threads of the headbolts or oil will work its way up the head bolt and out of the engine. Did you put any sealant on your headbolts? If so, what kind?
Lastly, just today my supposedly rebuilt engine started hemorraging oil from somewhere (from the head bolts?)and collecting in the intake, overflowing the intake manifold and runnign down the engine/exhaust manifold. There was water mixed in it as well. Do you suppose I have a blown head gasket? Is this a classic sign of a blown headgasket/warped head/cracked block? If it wasn't for the water, I would have thought just a bad valve cover gasket. But, there is water/oil mixed up on my dip stick.
Any suggestions on how to check this out. Doggone, it was running sweet there for about 10 minutes - finally got the auto choke and fast idle adjusted right.
Man sounds like your having some of my luck, ok let me see if i can help any, the only way I know of to check to see if the head gasket is blown is to start the engine and let it warm up enuff for the thermostat to open and then look into the radiator and see if there are any bubbles, if there is then it's either the gasket or the head it self.
I have not heard anything about the headbolts leaking around them, I sure hope it's not true, but it still would be easy to apply somthing to them 1 at a time.
I can't remember what brand name my head gasket was it came in the kit I ordered, but Felpro should have 1 I would think.
My valve cover and oil pan gasket are cork.
Hope I have helped you some
BTW if you find out for sure about sealing the headbolts please drop me a line and I shall do the same
Hi there, Thanks for for the eamil. I have an original 65 service manual. Chapter 8, part 8-2 describes removing and reinstalling the head on a 170/200 6 cylinder. The book says DO NOT use gasket sealer on the 200 head gasket. It also says to coat the threads of the number 1 and number 6 head bolts on the right side of the engine with water resistant sealer. IT does not illustrate which bolts are the nubmer 1 and number 6 bolts. I think that it is the number 6 bolt that is leaking air oil and water up into my intake manifold pocket. Looks like the bolt was not treated.
Also, I removed the radiator cap and saw gobs and gobs of foam, looking like the head on a mug of beer. Per your post is this a symptom of a bad head gasket? I suspect taht the rebuilder used gasket sealer on the head gasket and did not put any sealant on the headbolt threads. Water forced its way up the head bolt, vaporized to steam on the way and blew out the head gasket. I only hope the head is not cracked or warped. The books says to test head flatness by using a metal straight edge and checking diagonally across the length from corner to corner, then again down the middle of the length. The books has the maddening practice of say check to specifications, but not putting the specification in the book at that point. Have to thumb through it. For instance. It says tighten the head bolts in stages, first 55, then 65, then to specifications, but doesn't say what the final torque should be. grrr. Do you recall what the final torque should be?
Oh well, If I had a week off from work and could get this done. INstead, tomorrow I check out a 1978 Mercedes 240D and possible buy it. amazing.
Nah didn't fire it up today, hunnydoo's were pilling up but i'm alot closer
Ok head bolt torque 70-75
and the foam you seen is either the gasket or the head, I know the book said to check the head with a stright edge but I personally don't think thats good enough, its fairly cheap to take it to a machine shop and have them check it (money well spent)
I have found a link to get engine specs. like torque, gaps
oil types etc.
type in you car type and then go to specs. it's pretty cool it allso give tighting sequence's