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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finished my Granada swap last night at about 10pm. It only took me 7 hours from start to finish /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif. The biggest headache of it all was the darn proportioning valve and the lines going to it. Half of my lines needed to be moved around or I needed to make a new one, and that took a long time to make everything fit.

Performance wise, they aren't too shabby. I am happy with how well they stop, and how they grab and keep grabbing all the way to a stop, whereas the drums would grab and slowly fade as I came to a stop requiring me to push harder on the pedal.

One problem that I have is that on really hard stops, my LR tire will lock up. And on even harder stops my LR and my RR will lock up. It was this way when I had the drums too, only it was a tad worse with the drums. I figured the proportioning valve would do away with this, but I guess it didn't. Any ideas?

Other than that little problem they work quite well. And my total cost for going from drum to disc was about $200. Not too bad considering I replaced a lot of stuff with new pieces.

And thanks to all of you who helped to answer my questions regarding this conversion. I couldn't have done it without the VMF.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong; but on hard stops aren't they supposed to lock up. Or is the front not yet locking up. Adjust the proportioning valve more to front?????
 

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Make sure you don't have any brake fluid or axle lube on the rear shoes, that will cause locking....

On my proportioning valve, all the way in is full pressure to the rear wheels, when you back the knob out, you decrease pressure to the rear. I was adjusting the wrong way at first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The fronts aren't lockin up, just the rears. And the proportioning valve is non-adjustable, I didn't spring the extra dough for an adjustable one, I am just using the one off of the donor.
 

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When $ permit add an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear brake circuit. Summit has about the best price on them. I am running the stock Granada PV and added the adjustable to the rear circuit to further reduce pressure to the back. You will notice a significant improvement.
 

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I agree with 66coupe289, add a adjustable when you get some more dough and feel like fiddling with the brakes lines again. I'm happy to know you won't run into my rear bumper on our next spirited run through the twisties. *G* Sounds like your ready for some "open track" to me!!!!
 

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I've seen adjustable prop. valves on ehay lately for as little as $25. Dickson
 

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I agree with '66coupe289' also. An adjustable valve on the rear circuit would probably provide the needed improvement. I may be wrong here, but isn't the granada prop valve designed to provide a fixed % stopping power to the front and to the rear? The adj. valve would allow one to finesse those % a little more.

Congrats on the swap BTW. I was amazed how easy and straightforward mine went....to this point. I still need to deal with lines/prop valves/MC's/rear brakes....so the easy part of mine is done and the difficult part is ahead of me. $200 for a complete rebuild setup is the deal of the VMF, I'm sure. I'll have $450 in mine, though I'm counting the M/C, front brake lines and the wheel bearings/races also. And I paid $36.00 to have mine hot tanked to get all the #%@#% off them.
 

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I found the adjustable proporting valve to really help fine-tune my Granda brakes.
It also helped solve a slightly soggy pedal even after bleeding the brakes several times.
 
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