Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
After some screwing around, I got the new build (347) running.....not great, but running. After 10-15 minutes of run time (roller cam), I was trying to tweak the timing in hopes of smoothing it out.....then the starter wouldn't turn it over.....it just screamed this gawd awful noise.

I could barely turn the motor by hand (crank pully nut). I pulled all the plugs, and then the starter would crank it over, but it still screams the same noise, coming from the bell housing (I think). I measured the compression with a plug-in type tester.....all cylinders at 175 (average) after two to three compression cycles.....this seems high doesn't it?
The motor turns normally by hand without the plugs.

I bought a fresh starter, and it makes the same awful noise. There is signs of metal filings both on the old starter and on the new flexplate teeth. This build includes a new 2400 stall converter, that seemed to install without a hitch (my first time at this). I did not prefill the converter prior to starting the engine....assumed it would fill on it's own.

Is it possible that this horrendous noise is coming from the converter?
If it didn't fill on its' own, could it have reached a critical temp. in just 15 minutes at nothing more than around 2500 rpm, just sitting in nuetral?
I really don't think the noise is related to the rotating assembly.....once running it sounded good.....a tad rough, and some skirt slap noise, but otherwise okay. The noise is REALY loud (just cranking!).....I think it is being amplified by the bell housing (sort of a natural echo chamber).

As stated above, all sounded normal when the engine was running. It's almost like something siezed up after I shut it down. For obvious reasons, I have not tried to start the engine since this noise started.

Don't know what to do next....need help......Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Check with a magnet to see if the metal filings are steel or aluminum. Sounds like the flwheel may be hitting the starter. Check the end housing of the starter and see if there are any contact marks. Be advised that there are different starters for stick shift and automatic trans use and the difference is the end housing which goes into the bellhousing. Start there and let us know as there are many possiblities.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
You sure you have the right flywheel, starter mount combination. It only takes a few teeth off to screw everything up...

M
That's what I was thinking. Are the starter teeth meshing correctly with the teeth on the flywheel? Are there any damaged or missing teeth on the flywheel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Flex plate misalignment

Normally when I hear this exact same story, it is because the installer did not get the torque converter drain plug THROUGH the corresponding hole in the flexplate. And if it just happens to be the bolt near the counterweight, it REALLY scrapes! That is, the counterweight hits the block plate. Most NEW flexplates have four drain holes in them so you can't do that, but it would be worth checking. Also be sure you have a starter for an automatic, and your torque converter was properly clocked into the input shaft of the tranny. With all 4 nuts removed from the flexplate, you should be able to push the torque converter into the transmission an 1/8" or so with no resistance. If it is bound up tight, it may be time for a tranny removal and possibly a front pump replacement.

Hopefully it is simply the drain plug issue. You can fix that by separating the engine and tranny by about 1/2" so you can rotate the flexplate on the torque converter. Remove the inspection plate and you will see easy enough if the flexplate is bent around the drain plug.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I was not aware of this, and thus paid no attention to the orientation of the drain plug relative to the flexplate. So, what you're saying is that the protruding drain plug will keep the flexplate from seating squarely against the TC< is that it?
If this were the case, wouldn't I have noticed this when attaching the nuts to the TC studs? If the plug was interfering, then the studs would not be fully through the FP....yes? I am quite certain that the TC was all the way home.
There were no issues at all attaching the nuts onto the studs.

I was just under the car with the inspection plate off. It looks like the starter gear is only engaging maybe 1/4" or so, judging by the wear marks on the gear and the FP gear. My solenoid is also eight years old......could it be that the solenoid is not transferring it's signal fully?

I will go back down and rotate the flexplate and inspect for any chafing against the engine plate......that's definitely the kind of noise that I'm hearing, but why wouldn't I have heard it when the engine was running?

Tom
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Just rotated the flexplate all the way around.....there are multiple holes form the drain as you said, but there's no drain plug in any of them. The studs are "proud" of the counterweight, so if anything was scraping the engine plate it would be the studs, and they're all clean.
I have no idea about the starter, as to whether it's for a standard or automatic....how does one tell the difference?
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top