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Did you ever try it ? Thanks for the offer .but my buddy @dobrostang has one he isn't using if I was so inclined to try one
I did have it on twice. I noticed that it really tightened up the ride. A bit too much for me. I have tons of bumpy roads around here and I thought my convertible had a more comfortable ride with the rear a bit loose.
 

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Did you ever try it ? Thanks for the offer .but my buddy @dobrostang has one he isn't using if I was so inclined to try one

I have a 5/8 adjustable rear bar but my thinking has been that I am looking for hookup, the rear bar actually lessens traction in the rear to make it looser. Its the right answer for people running larger tires out back to square up the performance. Also necessary for IRS but live axles couple in a similar action to a rear SB.



So until I exhaust every option for getting more bite up front, I'll wait on the rear. I'm actually getting very close after shortening the UCA half an inch, 1.5 degrees neg camber 4.5 castor and softening the Konis to 50%. I can get a little rotation if I trail brake but I'm not good enough on the throttle to induce rotation in Autocross, I've done it on the track but things just happen too fast for me in Autocross, end up spinning and making a mess of the track.



After looking at years of photos I have a ton of lean in hard cornering so I'm trolling for an 1 1/8 bar that someone took off in CL and FBMP to try that next. I would'nt suggest it for a street car but in my case I'm curious what would happen so that's next...
 

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I have a control-arm drop template, if you want it. It's lexan and will come with a transfer punch. I will ship it to you for the cost of shipping.
 

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I have a '65 2+2 and am trying to get an idea what going to 1" sway bar will be like vs just replacing the bushings and end link rubber.

The bar on there now is 11/16 according to my 1992 Craftsman wrench.

I have a monte carlo bar + export brace installed. The car is a weekend driver and my garage girlfriend :makeout: .

Thank you.
The front end will roll less.

The result of that is wholly dependent on the REST of your set-up. By itself, the installation of a thicker bar will INCREASE understeer but, if you already have made modifications that increased OVERSTEER then the bar will help bring you back toward neutral.

Like any "set-up", what one driver likes the other may not.... brings back a long ago memory of Jeff Gordon and Mark Martin swapping cars and turning a few laps.... Gordon complained about Martin's car being really "loose" (oversteer) and Martin complained about Gordon's being the opposite or "tight".

I'm happy with my 13/16 inch bar because I want a bit of roll to "set" the car for the turn. With relatively stiff sidewalls and "taut" springs the "feel" works for me. Others may not like it at all. Experiment until YOU are comfortable.
 

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The upper A arm drop is a game changer so definitely do that. The other change I recommend a roller bearing spring perches. I got mine from Open Tracker LLC. Totally eliminates any spring binding. Also recommend Bilstein Sport Shocks, pricey but worth it.
Bob S.
 

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Yep, get the right rear bar for good balance. The reason for that is most people put too large of a rear bar on the rear, and the balance goes the other way, from tight to loose. with a one inch front bar, you want a 5/8" rear bar, too many people install a 3/4" rear bar.
True. I put a 3/4" bar on when I installed the 1" front, drove it that way for some time. Then a bracket broke on the rear bar, so I took it off to prevent problems while I got or made another bracket. I actually liked the way it handled better, and never put it back on the car.
 

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I have a 5/8 adjustable rear bar but my thinking has been that I am looking for hookup, the rear bar actually lessens traction in the rear to make it looser.
well sort of. when you use a rear bar, you change the balance of the roll stiffness front to rear. remember that you want all four tires providing as much traction as possible when cornering, and anything you do to upset that means one end or the other loses traction, and thus cornering effort.

and there are many things that go into choosing a rear bar, or deciding not to use a rear bar, or how big the rear bar should be. start with the size of the front bar, add in the spring rates at each end, what wheel and tire combination you are running, any aero devices being used, what speeds you are going to run at when cornering, etc.

for instance, lets say you are going to run a 620 front spring, stock rear springs, and the 1" front bar, a 3/4 rear bar might just do what you want. if you up the rear spring rate though, you change the balance as now you have greater rear roll stiffness, and thus need to go to a smaller rear bar.

in essence there are two schools of thought when deciding on sway bars;

1: use stiff springs, and use the sway bars to tune the suspension
2: use soft springs, and use the sway bars to control the suspension

both work well and are proven philosophies.

i do like the idea of the adjustable rear bars though, makes it easy to tune the suspension without having to carry a lot of sway bars, like nascar, and other race teams do.

the other thing that goes into deciding on what rear bar to run it, how does it feel to the driver? some drivers like looser cars, some like them tighter. for me i like them looser than stock, as i adapt my driving style to the car not the other way around(take a dirt road curve with the devils nerve).

take two cars that i have owned over the years, my 83 grand marquis, and my 05 grand marquis. both fine cars, but for handling the 05 mops the floor with the 83. i like the more responsive suspension and steering input, but i can adapt to either car nicely and make them do what i want within the limitations of each car.
 

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I’ll throw in my two cents and hopefully not upset the apple cart too much...

I’ve got two Mustangs, a 67 and a 66 (the 66 is the wife’s technically, but I am the pit crew). My 67 is setup like a lot of the other folks cars here; a bit more aggressive with springs, shocks, and mods to make it go around a corner quickly. That one only has a 7/8” front sway bar, and after completing my first track day recently, it needs more front bar as the body roll is too much for my liking. On the street, it was fine, much less body roll/sway than a stock unit.

Now the 66 is setup as a daily driver (modified of course but less aggressive setup). It has a pokey six cylinder and a C4. I installed a 1” bar in it and to my surprise, it swayed more in the corners than my 67 with the smaller bar. I then installed a one piece export brace and that helped stiffen up the chassis and I noticed less body roll. I then installed a Monte Carlo bar and that further stiffened the chassis and again reduced body roll further to the point it felt flatter in corners than my 67. I can crank the 66 around corners as fast (faster?) than more modern cars now and make those 185/14’s squeal for mercy. My wife won’t drive it like that, but if she does, I know it can handle it. 🙂

To reverberate the point others have been making, it’s the sum of the parts that make it handle the way it handles. Just changing bushings will bring it back to stock handling, and stock handling wasn’t real good on these cars, downright scary really. Keep adding parts until it feels right to you. Or better yet, dive down the rabbit hole with the rest of us... 🙂
 

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Just another $0.02... I installed the export brace and dang- it immediately seemed like I was driving a completely different (much better handling) car. Thus encouraged, I installed a 1" sway bar the next weekend, and... meh. Leans less around the complete loop exit I make at work, but definitely not as transformative as the brace (at least on my "not overly aggressively driven" I-6).
 

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The first thing I did when I got my 64 1/2 D code coupe in 2003 was to replace the steering linkage (tie rod ends and sleeves, and idler arm), upper and lower control arms with Moog parts. I also replaced the sway bar with a 1" bar and associated links using rubber bushings. I noticed immediately flatter turns but my steering box was still loose. It was a manual box with some play in it. I next added a curved (better than air) Monte Carlo bar. I noticed even more control when making turns. Next I swapped my manual steering to OEM power and had to swap out a couple of pieces of the steering linkage in the process as well as a good power steering, steering box. That took out the play. The car road well and handled even better. Next I later did the Shelby Arning drop, put in a SD export brace, replaced the original springs with Eaton improved handling (GT) rear leafs and front coils, and replaced the worn shocks with KYB Gas Adjusts. Now the car hugs the road almost like a modern car when I hit the corners. There is no noticeable lean and she handles like a modern performance car.

I heard so much about Bilstein and Konis being so much better than KYB shocks. I'm debating. I'm happy with the way my set up is now and shocks are so simple to replace. I wish I could try out a set of Bilstein of Konis before sinking the money into them. I had Konis back in the day on a 67 Vert and they were alright but I didn't have or even know about the modifications that improve handling back then. It's hard to imagine my car now handling even better than it does in turns by switching to a different brand of shocks.
 

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I heard so much about Bilstein and Konis being so much better than KYB shocks. I'm debating. I'm happy with the way my set up is now and shocks are so simple to replace. I wish I could try out a set of Bilstein of Konis before sinking the money into them. I had Konis back in the day on a 67 Vert and they were alright but I didn't have or even know about the modifications that improve handling back then. It's hard to imagine my car now handling even better than it does in turns by switching to a different brand of shocks.
I’m in the exact same boat you are. We gotta organize a shock share program to try before we buy!
 

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I went through this when I upgraded my suspension and did a lot of research on my own when deciding on shocks. My take on it is, KYBs are great if you're going to track your car or only drive on road courses because they provide great cornering but also a harsh ride. Bilsteins on the other hand (at least the street valved version) are also great with cornering but just slightly less so than KYBs, however the ride on the street is much smoother. Really it depends on how you plan to use the car. My car is never going to see a track or road course so Bilsteins were a no brainer for me.
 

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Holy Crap! I was looking at a front and rear pair of Bilsteins for my 66... $500 bucks! Whoa, I'd like a better ride but that's a lot of money.
 

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Holy Crap! I was looking at a front and rear pair of Bilsteins for my 66... $500 bucks! Whoa, I'd like a better ride but that's a lot of money.
Its true, Bilsteins are spendy. I think I paid $400 through opentracker, but shocks are one area that you get what you pay for. I put over 5k miles on my car this year and still have all my teeth, my spine is still straight, and I don't think anything has rattled off the car.
 

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I like my cheap Monroe Matic Plus gas shocks just fine. They took about half of the roll out for $80.00. Rides really nice and corners fine.

Well, I don't race my car, and certainly don't drive it like I'm at the racetrack... in fact, I baby the dang thing. Sure, I push her a bit, but I was shocked at how much those things were. Sorry to somewhat hijack the thread...
 

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Now the 66 is setup as a daily driver (modified of course but less aggressive setup). It has a pokey six cylinder and a C4. I installed a 1” bar in it and to my surprise, it swayed more in the corners than my 67 with the smaller bar. I then installed a one piece export brace and that helped stiffen up the chassis and I noticed less body roll. I then installed a Monte Carlo bar and that further stiffened the chassis and again reduced body roll further to the point it felt flatter in corners than my 67. I can crank the 66 around corners as fast (faster?) than more modern cars now and make those 185/14’s squeal for mercy. My wife won’t drive it like that, but if she does, I know it can handle it. 🙂
Just another $0.02... I installed the export brace and dang- it immediately seemed like I was driving a completely different (much better handling) car. Thus encouraged, I installed a 1" sway bar the next weekend, and... meh. Leans less around the complete loop exit I make at work, but definitely not as transformative as the brace (at least on my "not overly aggressively driven" I-6).
you guys found out that the stiffer you make the chassis, the more effective suspension mods become. and note that if you stiffen up the chassis well, you actually can use LESS spring rate than you would otherwise, and at that point the sway bar becomes even mire important to controlling the suspension.
 

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I like my cheap Monroe Matic Plus gas shocks just fine. They took about half of the roll out for $80.00. Rides really nice and corners fine.

Well, I don't race my car, and certainly don't drive it like I'm at the racetrack... in fact, I baby the dang thing. Sure, I push her a bit, but I was shocked at how much those things were. Sorry to somewhat hijack the thread...
Pish-posh...... I’ve got 560 a side up front, just in shock alone. There IS a big difference in performance between an 80 dollar dampener and a double-adjustable part. I learned a long time ago that with shocks, get the best quality available.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 
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