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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My son and I are having trouble getting his Fitech Go EFI 600 to run well. It appears it may be an ignition issue actually and not a fitech issue. At idle it runs good, even off idle it runs goid, but if you give it some throttle it falls on its face. It feels like you just ran out of gas. We have checked for vacuum leaks and repaired one, checked the transmission vacuum modulator, no apparent issues. It currently has a GM style HEI distributor. while playing with that, changing the module, etc, I was able to make the problem move around or get worse, but not better. I have a big suspicion that the distributor is the problem.

so, I would like to replace the distributor with the “2 wire distributor” compatible with the FiTech unit so that we can utilize the timing control through that. I am unable to discern exactly which unit to use though. The only distributor that I can find any reference to is an $400+ MSD unit. I am not a big fan of MSD for long ago reasons that are likely not still valid, but still not a fan. I would also like to avoid spending $400 on a distributor I am going to lock out all of its functions and use only as a trigger.

Also, once I get said 2 wire distributor I am going to need a new coil. I would prefer a newer style HEI like the E core GM style coils, but am not stuck on anything in particular, I just need it to work together.

Thanks, any advice is appreciated.
 

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1966 Coupe C Code
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What does your afr say on the Fitech screen say when it happens? May be something you could tune out. Accelerator pump?
 

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1965 C-code Coupe, Silver Metallic Blue, 3-speed toploader, 3.00 rear
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We just did a FiTech conversion on my neighbor's C10. Idle was good, slow, part throttle was good, and slow acceleration. But if you snapped the throttle, it would fall right on its face. Turns out the accelerator shot setting has two categories: Normal and Fast. Normal is for part throttle and slow acceleration, and fast is like a giant pump shot from goosing it. The "Fast" setting was WAY rich and bogging it out. Try checking those settings and playing around with them a bit; see if you see some blue smoke and it smells like it's trying to asphyxiate you. :)
 

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MSD, summit, Kegs, etc..all make a version of the 2 wire distributor. I have the MSD and I works well. Like others say. Check your AFR when going from part throttle to WOT. You may be running real rich.
 

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My suggestions after having 2 TBI injection setups is

1. Don't have the FiTech control the ignition. Install a stock distributor with an MSD box, the MSD box will provide a perfectly clean tach signal to the EFI. I battled ignition noise on my old powerjection 3 and tried every distributor under the sun and on a last ditch effort went with the MSD box. The tech guys at Professional products said it more or less guarantees a clean tach signal and it did in my case. When I installed my FiTech to replace the powerjection 3 I ran the same stock distributor and MSD box and it ran flawlessly. Over time I thought I could swap on an MSD distributor, phase the rotor, and let the FiTech control the timing. It left me stranded on the side of the road 2 out of the 2 drives I went on so I went back to my stock distributor/coil/MSD box.

2. Make sure you have good grounds on the unit and also put relays on everything. I have a relay to power the FiTech and a relay on the fuel pump.
 

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What does your afr say on the Fitech screen say when it happens? May be something you could tune out. Accelerator pump?
Just be aware that rich and lean misfires will both make the AFR reading go really lean. What it does before and after that (in a real datalog, not trying to eyeball it while driving) will offer clues as which type of misfire it is.
 

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I used the Holley Hyperspark system. The distributor, e core coil and the CD ignition box with great success.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, ignition problems have been ruled out. I have been playing with accelerator pump and fast accel settings for the last hour. What happens is at part throttle or if I try to depress the throttle at anything more that the slightest amount the engine feels like it just ran out of fuel. AFR numbers start to climb if I have the throttle on the edge of when it does it. I have bumped up the accel pump and fast accel pump starting at 0 and increased 10 at a time until the max. no real change. Not really sure where to go from here.
 

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A "relatively cheap" solution? Get a Ford DurasparkII distributor, remove the advance springs and weights and (my recommendation) remove the round "pins" the advance springs attach to, run a 5/32" drill bit down the hole into the plate below, tap the hole for a 10-32 machine screw and fit one each with a lock washer AND red threadlocker to each hole to lock the mechanical advance in place. For the vacuum advance, either remove it and replace with a "lockout kit" or find a really long self-tapping screw that will thread into the vacuum nipple and bottom that sucker out so it can't move. Stick a "fake" vacuum hose on it to confuse the general public.

The DurasparkII module is a magnetic-trigger and although the plug has 3 wires, one is a ground. The other two are your "supply" and "reference" wires.
 

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Okay, ignition problems have been ruled out. I have been playing with accelerator pump and fast accel settings for the last hour. What happens is at part throttle or if I try to depress the throttle at anything more that the slightest amount the engine feels like it just ran out of fuel. AFR numbers start to climb if I have the throttle on the edge of when it does it. I have bumped up the accel pump and fast accel pump starting at 0 and increased 10 at a time until the max. no real change. Not really sure where to go from here.
I am running the FiTech 600 as well. The only thing that bothers me about the system is exactly what you are discribing. Going from part throttle to WOT throttle causes a rich bog. Watch your AFR when you gas it to WOT. First mine blips slightly lean and the goes real rich like 10.6 and stays that way for several seconds as the engine struggles with the rich AFR. Finally as the AFR hits 12.5 it takes off like it's supposed to. When I go from part throttle to WOT slowly I don't get the problem. I originally thought it was the accelerator pump shot being lean and the FiTech overcompensating and going real rich. But I have adjusted the pump shot and the rich bog is still there. I have been working a lot lately (5-6 12 hour shifts a week) and just haven't had time to mess with it. And today I realized that one of tips for the cord that plugs into the handheld broke. So I have to secure a new cord. Once I get a new cord and some time I will try to figure it out and let you know. Set your screen to large gauges and watch what you AFR does before during and after you go to WOT.
 

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What is the vacuum on the engine? What cam setting are you at? Is the IAC set correctly? I would bump up to a higher cam profile. Reset the settings. Set the IAC and let it learn again. You really have to give it some time to learn before you go in and mess with everthing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What is the vacuum on the engine? What cam setting are you at? Is the IAC set correctly? I would bump up to a higher cam profile. Reset the settings. Set the IAC and let it learn again. You really have to give it some time to learn before you go in and mess with everthing.
The vacuum is a bit odd. It sits at about -10 (not sure what units it is measuring in), then when you start to open the throttle it doesn’t really do anything until the motor tanks, then it drops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I do believe I have discovered the issue. At start up the fuel pressure is 58, then idle it is 58. Then as rpm increases over about 2600 the fuel pressure tanks, maybe 20 psi. I will mount a fitech external fuel pump tomorrow and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay, the external fuel pump fixed the issue. It has some start up issues and does need to be tuned a bit, but it drives, so maybe it can do some of its own self improvement.
 

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Okay, the external fuel pump fixed the issue. It has some start up issues and does need to be tuned a bit, but it drives, so maybe it can do some of its own self improvement.
Start up is entirely up to you to tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I put my fuel pressure gauge on a long hose and taped it to the front of the hood. My hose got too pinched coming out the back. I have 58 at start up and it maintains it for a while, then the pressure starts to tank under acceleration, and it doesn’t recover if I let off the throttle. I think I need to tear apart my filter, blow through the hoses, etc, until I find the culprit.
 

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If for some reason you should decide to change distributor still, you could use a later '80's unit with the TFI module, and only use the PIP signal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If for some reason you should decide to change distributor still, you could use a later '80's unit with the TFI module, and only use the PIP signal.
I ended up using the Jegs version of an MSD 2 wire. I had to try and phase the rotor, but the adjustable rotor just didn’t work well. Even set at the exact position as the stock rotor it would run crappy immediately upon swapping it in. I pulled the distributor apart and pulled the reluctor off. My plan was to remove the reluctor key and D&T a #6 set screw to allow me to phase the reluctor instead. What I found was that the key was a round sort of permanent key. And the key ways were just little triangular grooves instead of square brooches keys. The key ways were the exact shape of a triangular file. Perfect, I thought I would just make a new key way. There was already one on the opposite side that was maybe 10 degrees in the direction I wanted to go. So I reassembled it using the alternate key way, and it phased everything almost perfectly.
 
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