Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I ran a couple of water tests this weekend and found all of the leaks, or at least the first three there may be more after I fix these.

The first was in the windshield at the lower passenger side. I reasealed the window with clear silicon and that stopped the window leak till I can get a new window and seal. I need one anyway.

The other two leaks are in both cowl vents going into the heat ducts. I poured water in the cowl and had spill on both sides. I oredered a cowl vent seal kit that contains two rubber gaskets for the vent tops and silicon.

My qoestion is this. How can I get in to the vents to install these seals. I am driving this car daily. Has anyone installed this type if kit before?

Suggestions would be appreciated.

I know the best way to fix this is to cut out the panels and replace them, but I cannot do this right now. And I want to try and fix the vents before I seal up the entire cowl. If I could avoid that it would look and function better to keep the cowl open.

Thanks

Jimbo65

65 I6 200 Coupe (Daily Driver)
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
There is a lot of info about this topic on the old forum. Try a search for cowl. Here are a couple url's from the members which will show you what your working with:

http://home.pacifier.com/~dnstoys/cowl2.htm

http://www.geocities.com/akatajam/cowl.htm

Adrien.

65 GT Coupe, dismantled waiting for resto.
67 Restomod Coupe, in assy.
69 Mach 1, SWMBO say don't take it apart!
91 5.0 LX HB, driver.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1594363&a=12146434&p=44060413.jpg<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by stangs4me on 03/27/01 00:50 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
2 books have fixes for this,
Mustang how to vol. 1
and
Mustang how to Vol. 2
One outlines the Cowl Vent repair kit you are referring to.

1968 Coupe, 6cyl Std, Bench Seat. Driven through 10 years of College.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,395 Posts
I got the same kit to repair my right side cowl leak. All we did was remove the rusted out parts of the old cowl part and install the repair part with with silicone. It was extremely easy and worked fine for me.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Can you give me the authors for these books.
Or where to pick them up?
I am having trouble locating these..

Thanks....

J.

Jimbo65

65 I6 200 Coupe (Daily Driver)
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
First, you can check my site for cowl repairs and pictures.

I assume the kit you're referring to is 2 plastic hats and silicon. To install these you need to drop the heater box at the passenger side and the fresh air vent on the driver's side. Once you've done that you have 2 options:
1. Take a dremel/air cutter and cut the old hats out (recommended if they're really rusted through)
2. Wipe the old hats down and pop the new hats directly into the old (gobbed up with silicon of course)

If your old hats are really rusty cut them out, then reach your hand up in there, clean out all the junk, rust convert the cowl insides the best you can with naval jelly or Por 15, and get it primed and painted. Then pop your new hats up in there.

Keep in mind that there's a good possibility the hats won't stop all leaks; if there's any holes at all anywhere else around the hats (and there usually is, especially where the old hats were welded to the cowl) water is going to find it's way in. Best bet there is try and reseal the old cowl hat to cowl seam as best as you can before you slap the new hats up.

Finally, when you say "seal up the entire cowl" are you talking about sealing the cowl grills on the outside of the car shut? If so, you don't want to do this. Aside from looks, your defroster will cease to function correctly due to a lack of outside air. Also, in my opinion, it will only accelerate rust in the cowl because any moisture that gets in (and it will get in, thru the wiper post holes, etc) will not get out very easily because there won't be any air flow. So you definitely don't want to do this if that's what you meant.

Visit my repair page for Repair info, with pictures! http://home.dencity.com/mustangcub
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
TennesseeCub
I tried your url and the cowl page doesn't seem to be working....just passing this along....could be me....don't know.

Adrien.

65 GT Coupe, dismantled waiting for resto.
67 Restomod Coupe, in assy.
69 Mach 1, SWMBO say don't take it apart!
91 5.0 LX HB, driver.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1594363&a=12146434&p=44060413.jpg
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I pulled the glovebox and heater parts out today and found the upper flange of the hats has rusted away an two places. One on the driver side. There were no holes in the metal round the hat. Only on the hat itself.

This being the case I will cut out the old hat and clean the area up and install the new hats and silicon. This will have to do for now, till I can remove the fenders and fix this right.

I have not checked the seam where all of these meet, but I will look in there and do another water test after I get the vents fixed.

Thanks

Jimbo65

65 I6 200 Coupe (Daily Driver)
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Good luck on the repair. Considering Ford did not galvanize or prime the inner cowl until '67 or '68, I decided to remove the cowl and do it once the right way (Yes, I drilled out every spot weld). Anyhow, the cool trick is to repair, seal, and paint and then lay plastic over the area before you reweld the cowl cap. With the ends of the plastic hanging through the lower vent holes (heater and fresh air), you can remove the plastic after final painting on the car. Viola! Beautiful inner cowl with no overspray.
The reason I wrote was to make sure you've cleaned the debris from the inner drain holes (where the cowls meet the fenders). If not, you may be creating a bath tub which furthers the internal rot. Remember, you're already fighting a losing battle. Ford didn't plan on these cars still being on the road 35+ years later.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top