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Discussion Starter #1
So, i installed my engine with a new flexplate ( 289/302 with a c4)
I have a problem with the flexplate balance weight hitting the starter somehow?
What can i have done wrong? Is it possible to have installede the flexplate and torque converter together wrong? All of the torque converter studs are poking out of the flexplate, and i can see the drainplug thrue one of the holes, but could they be 90 degrees wrong?

Thanks in advance
 

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Torque converter my not be seated all the way in on the shaft. Did you put the converter on the shaft and rotate it until it clicked in 3 times? The other common error is not aligning the drain plug and dimpling against the flex plate. But you said you have that checked off.

Another thing I’ve heard of but not seen or experienced is a so-called ‘ballooning converter’. Hopefully GypsyR will chime in. He’s the tranny expert around these parts.
 

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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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" He’s the tranny expert around these parts." Am not Am not Am not!
Well, I know a little. Sounds like the converter isn't all the way in. If you only pulled the engine then it's possible the converter got dragged out of the transmission a little. It will NOT just push back in. You have to fiddle with it and spin it to get it to fully seat. To do that the engine and transmission have to be away from each other.

The way to tell is when everything is together but you haven't put the converter nuts on yet is that the converter studs will only be sticking about halfway through the flexplate and "loose". You can grab one and clank the converter back and forth. if they are jammed tight 100% through the holes, it's not seated. It has to come back apart.

Now you could have other issues, backwards or incorrect parts, but the converter problem happens A LOT! If that's what's going on than the converter being forward is flexing the flexplate (now you know why it's called that) forward enough that it's hitting the starter. IE, bending it. If you're lucky you can sort it out and the flexplate will spring back. If not then you will need a new plate and/or a transmission pump gear. As they sometimes break under this kind of stress.
 

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Be careful when changing flex plates as they aren't all made identical. They need to be measured to check they have the same width. The sfi rated (who cares) flex plate stood off my block 3/16" more than the stock OE flex plate. Not good if you don't measure and don't add that 3/16 back into torque converter/ flex plate spacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you all for the answers. The problem was that there was 2 drain plugs, and only one was poking out of the hole. Mistake corrected now, and i won't make that mistake again :p
I just hope now that my torque converter is all the way in, i have never messed with automatics before (95% of cars are with stick shift in europe). I couldn't seem to get my fingers behind the torque converter, witch i heard is a way to tell that it is seated probably, and it spun freely. Any other way to tell if its seated correct
 

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Gypsy told you, you should be able to move the converter forward and aft before you tighten the bolts, it should not be jammed up against the flexplate with any pressure at all. I was guilty of a bad install on my wife's 69. I swore to the transmission guy I had it installed correctly and he said don't put any money on it. He had the pump out in just a couple of minutes and showed me that I had busted it.
 

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I quite frankly forgot about some converters having the second drain plug.
It's hard to tell when a converter is fully seated before you assemble everything. One of those things you learn through experience mostly. On some later transmissions some people were sensible enough to take measurements on how far in the converters sit but I have seen where anyone bothered to do that on a C4. Yet.
The converter needs to go in STRAIGHT. So gravity is fighting you. Key to getting it in is to spin it back and forth while lifting it a bit so it has a straighter shot. C4's aren't usually that bad to get in, it's just that they can pop back out a notch so very easily.
The check of how the converter studs protrude through the flexplate is like the last thing you do before you tighten the heck out of the bellhousing bolts. And then you check them again after, just to be sure.
 
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