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Ok, I'm back home for winter break, and am in the process of replacing my floor pans, and have some questions about what needs replacement. I just took off my driver side seat riser, because it itself rusted through in the front, and i figured the floor underneath it was almost rusted through. Here are some pics:

the seat riser itself:
http://plaza.ufl.edu/whizmsm/seatrizer1.JPG

underneath the seat riser:

http://plaza.ufl.edu/whizmsm/underneath%20seat%20rizer.JPG

to me, this looks like surface rust, and doesn't merit replacement. I bought 2 floor pans; one up to the seat riser, and one including the section underneath the seat riser. Does this appear like surface rust i can just grind off, or am i better off just replacing the whole thing? Also here are some pics of the passenger side. I think for the floor pans, i am just going to cut out some sections of regular sheet metal, and weld that into the places where they rusted through.

passenger side from above:

http://plaza.ufl.edu/whizmsm/pasabov1.JPG
http://plaza.ufl.edu/whizmsm/pasabov2.JPG

passanger side from below:

http://plaza.ufl.edu/whizmsm/pasdown1.JPG
http://plaza.ufl.edu/whizmsm/pasdown2.JPG

I dont think that the floor board underneath the seat riser on the passenger side will be rusted, seeing as it wasn't rusted through on the driver side.

so now here are my questions:

1. Should i spray something into the passneger side underneath the seat riser as best i can (i have this spray from discount auto that transforms the rust into iron i beleive) and patch the other holes with regular sheet metal, or should i take the seat riser off and replace everything?

2. on the driver side, should i replace the exposed section, or does it look like surface rust that can be taken off with a grinder?


thanks for all your input,
~michael
 

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That is some serious rust in my opinion. Rust is always more pervasive than at first glance. Not knowing the overall condition of the car, I would say you should replace the floor pans entirely. You also cut the seat riser up unnecessarily, if you haven't yet done it to the passenger side, drill out the spot welds and lift it off.You can then sandblast the underside, POR-15 it, and weld it nicely back onto your new floor boards.
 

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i too second the full pan replacement. do it right the first time, its not the most fun the first time, going back a second time is even worse.
 

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Think about it.

You have everything ripped out.

You're cutting and welding anyway.

Use full length pans.

I used a short pan on my drivers side and regretted it almost immediately. In the end, it was just as quick to replace the full size as it was the shorty.

The metal that has rusted will be thinner and tricky to weld up. You only want to have to do this once.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
haha ok, that's what i figured also. the floor pan itself was rusted, so that is why i cut it, but to make it easier to take off, i just drlil through each spotweld, and then it will lift off easily. What about the rocker panel, do i drill through that side too? when i weld the new seat riser on, do i weld it from above or below? With the floor pans that i have, how much overlap should i leave on the transmission tunnel side? i was thinking about having the new floor pan be about 1 cm over the tunnel; then do i weld that from above or below?
thanks for all the help
 

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Here are some pics of the full floor pan replacement process. Hope they help. Do one side at a time - do full legnth pans. You will need to buy the toe board for the one side. Good luck. Feel free to ask as many questions as you need.
jer
http://www.nenny.com/floors

jer
 

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What about the rocker panel, do i drill through that side too?

Yep!Or at least wherever possible. My floors were so bad I wound up grinding most of what was left away. There weren't too many spot welds left to drill.


when i weld the new seat riser on, do i weld it from above or below?

I drilled holes in the seat riser flanges and plug welded from inside the car. Welding under the car was not much fun.


the floor pans that i have, how much overlap should i leave on the transmission tunnel side

I left about 1/2" although if I were going to do it again I would probably try to butt weld them in. At the time my welding experience was non existant so I went the safe way.

then do i weld that from above or below?


I did both. Seal welded inside and out to be sure I left no pockets for moisture to get trapped into.

I have a section on my web page on the floors as well. Good luck!
 

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IMHO there is almost as much work doing patches as compared to the new full floor now available. You open up the frame rails, clean them out and POR the inside of the rails, etc. It is about a 40 hour project and when done you have no weld to finesse back, etc. But getting the piece into place can be a trick if the car is not a full restoration project. We went through the rear window opening of the fastback, carefully.
 
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