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When i'm trying to remove my seat riser, do i just drill through each spotweld, and then lift it off easily? What about the rocker panel, do i drill through that side too? when i weld the new seat riser on, do i weld it from above or below? With the floor pans that i have, how much overlap should i leave on the transmission tunnel side? i was thinking about having the new floor pan be about 1 cm over the tunnel; should i leave more overlap then that? then do i weld that from above or below?
thanks for all the help
 

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Drill every frikken' spot weld on the seat risers out, and then, you'll probably have to use a thin chisel to break some of them cleanly off. Since you now have nice holes along the flanges, use them as guides for welding back into the new floor pans (from above). As for overlaps onto the tranny hump, I prefer butt welding. It takes more effort to fit everything correctly, but then there will be no overlapping metal that could form the basis for sitting water and rust later on.
 

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The riser (if a coupe or fastback) has a stitch welded piece , where it attaches to the tranny tunnel . Grind off the welds or use a cut-off wheel and cut right below them to remove the welds . Don't cut all the way through the tranny tunnel , just the upper layer of metal that's the seat riser . Takes some pratice and skill but is easy to do , just go slow and easy and watch the cut depth (wear safety glasses ) .
 

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Be careful when you put the seat risers back in that you get the 2 seat risers evenly spaced apart. You will notice a definite difference between the seats if you don't. Could have an impact on the inboard side of the seatbelt also if you're not careful to get even spacing.
 
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