Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a ticking noise in the back of the motor, I have removed the dust cover on the bell housing and starter and it appears that the weight on the flywheel is hitting both of these areas, I shimmed out the starter appx 3/16 of an inch and it is still happening! I am positive that the flywheel was mounted correctly. Has anyone ever had an issue like this one?????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,277 Posts
It happens everytime you don't get the torque converter fully engage in the input shaft. You should turn and push on the converter till you get that second click of engagement. I would be willing to bet that's the problem. There is no reason why you should have to shim out the starter.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,959 Posts
Your engine to bellhousing plate may be bent just a little also. Seems like it would hit that before the dust cover. Sure it's not that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
Yes, with a cheap flexplate on my boat, when revved it would flex and touch the starter gear and make a squeaking noise. Went with a scat unit and it solved that. Is this a new piece? Engine swap? Can you see on the counterweight where it hits? A lot of times the nose on a rebuilt starter is a lot thicker than the originals were, I have had to grind a few for clearance.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,959 Posts
Also---have you had it running enough to see if you have a vibration? Like gregp said, it could also be the flexplate flexing to much under high revs but sounds like you haven't got to that point yet though. Have you had someone just turn it over while you watch the flexplate underneath to check for it being bent? PS--unplug coil so it won;t start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
You did remember that plate that goes in between the engine and the trans? I cant think of what would be hitting if you forgot it but you never know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
I once had a similar problem only worse. The torque converter bolts were hitting. Spent forever trying to figure it out only to find out the rebuilder had put the crank thrust bearing in the wrong main.

Probably that is not your problem. Try seating the torque converter as suggested above.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,959 Posts
You did remember that plate that goes in between the engine and the trans? I cant think of what would be hitting if you forgot it but you never know.
Was going to ask the same question but didn't want to go there. LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Do I have to break apart the tranny and motor to seat the torque converter, or can it be done underneath by removing the dust cover and unbolting the converter and twist and push
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The motor is running strong, the flywheel is new, the ticking increases as rpm's go up, trying to answer some of the previous questions!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,959 Posts
So I guess you do have a trans to block plate on it right?? Yes-- you will have to remove all your torque converter nuts and slid back a little so you can turn it. You should be able to tell if it's seated right now by how much of the torque converter studs are sticking out through the flexplate. If the converter is up against the flexplate allready it should be locked in right. You would think anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,965 Posts
Warning

DO NOT PULL THE TRANSMISSION UP TO THE ENGINE USING THE BOLTS.
YOU WILL BUST YOUR PUMP INPUT GEAR!

IF YOU DO ANYTHING, DO NOT PRY AGAINST THE TORQUE CONVERTER TO GET IT TO SEAT DEEPER, OR TO BEND THE FLEX PLATE.

THAT PUMP GEAR IS VERY FRAGILE CAST IRON AND IT WILL ONLY LINE UP ON THE TORQUE CONVERTER IN 2 POSITIONS. ZERO AND 180. IF IT IS EVEN SLIGHTLY MISALIGNED, AND THE TWO FLAT SPOTS DON'T GO IN EASILY....KA-pow!!!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,959 Posts
DO NOT PULL THE TRANSMISSION UP TO THE ENGINE USING THE BOLTS.
YOU WILL BUST YOUR PUMP INPUT GEAR!

IF YOU DO ANYTHING, DO NOT PRY AGAINST THE TORQUE CONVERTER TO GET IT TO SEAT DEEPER, OR TO BEND THE FLEX PLATE.

THAT PUMP GEAR IS VERY FRAGILE CAST IRON AND IT WILL ONLY LINE UP ON THE TORQUE CONVERTER IN 2 POSITIONS. ZERO AND 180. IF IT IS EVEN SLIGHTLY MISALIGNED, AND THE TWO FLAT SPOTS DON'T GO IN EASILY....KA-pow!!!!
We'll said---+1 on all that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,821 Posts
You said you installed the flexplate correctly, but are you sure the torque converter drain plugs are poking through the holes in the flexplate? There may be one or two plugs, they're hex-heads. If you see empty holes between the holes that go over the studs, you likely need to disengage the tranny from the flexplate so you can turn it and get the drain plugs poking through the holes.

Frank
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top