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FNG with tons of questions

3726 Views 42 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  GenTso
This is my first post, and im accustomed to posting an into first, so ill just slap it on the front end of this questionare of sorts

First off, My name is Dan and im 22. I live in PA, and im NEW to vintage mustangs. I have alot to learn, and am willing. Currently, im deployed to Iraq, and will be home shortly wrench in hand.

Im no gear head by any means, but i just purchased a '67 6cyl auto coupe. Body is in good shape, just needs a little reworking. This is a project for me and my father (who has been not just a mustang enthusiest for years, but a ford enthusiest for years). He will be the brains behind this operation. However, i am doing all i can to learn up.

He had a 351w sitting in his garage he has donated to the project. We have both selected a T-5 convertion kit from Modern Driveline.

These are the parts i have selected for the car myself through help of one of my buddys here with me. The goal is a good combination of reliablility and streetability, with a little 'UMPH'.

Summit Cam - Duration 204/214 Lift .448"/.472"

Summit Street/Strip Stage II Intake

Wolrd Products Windsor Sr. Iron Heads

Edelbrock 1411 Carb

Anyone good at estimating HP gain? Any suggestions are helpful to improve that number. Without the stroker, I'd like to be spending 2000, AT THE VERY MOST 2500.

Now my father had said about stroking it. I understand it adds cubes, am i right as guessing its more of a tourque thing?

I wont keep typing all the tons and tons of questions i have, ill get to them in due time im sure. Thanks for the help in advance.
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First let me say, thanks again. As someone with limited knowlege (as in i can for the most part name what i see in front of my, knowing little of the specifics of what it does) all this advice is im sure saving me oodles of cash, and time.

However, i was wanting to do a little better than that. It seems everyone agrees that the manifold is a good call. So that i will not change. I know im asking alot, but i was hoping to finance a way to be somewhere over 300 hp at the wheels. Basically what i did for this kit, was take the edelbrock power pack (the "bargian" kit), and match it with some cheaper gear with close numbers. If someone out there has the time to RECCOMEND some items for purchse, or could tell me what i have to do to get in the low to mid 300 range, i sure would appreciate it. Im sure some of you have some tried and true tricks and suggestions, and im open to all.

As far as the rest of the car, i was looking at using the rear thats in it (8" from a maverick), and having the local speed shop install a posi unit for me. I was thinking a set of 3.73 gears. Suspention, i have no idea what im doing there yet either. This is the intention of the car currently.

T-5 mentioned above

351w - Hopefully about the low 300 range ( and i was hoping for at the wheels.. if i need a bump in the budget, let me know how to do it on the cheap. This isnt something i want to keep ripping apart every year or two heh.)

Subframe connectors - I was told that the V6 was set up a little weaker than the V8. Never hurts to solid up an investment was my call on this one.

8" rear (installed)- install 3.73 rear upgrade
I do have a neighbor who i called who is doing a ford resto project of his own, and i believe he told me that he has a 9" rear he is gonna get rid of. I dont know what its from, but its definitely something to look into.

Then some asthetic stuff. The car has a few things that needs a ban-aid. Pass fender needs to be swapped, Hood, Front bumper, and one headlight bucket. They are not TERRIBLE and i can totally deal with it for now, but i was hoping to spend the winter getting this all together.

Anything you folks have in your head to throw out.. things that you should have done on your first build, anything looking back in hind sight that you wish you would have done, feel FREE to throw it out. My budget is flexable, and i would rather spend a little more and get what i want, than to spend twice if at all possible. However, i am cost concious. If i wasnt id just call TrickFlow haha.

Thanks again

*EDIT* I wanted to add the cardomain site i got when i purchased the car. Everything listed there is by the previous owner.
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Allentown is a hop, skip, jump, and a combat roll away. I live close to Hazleton. I find myself in Allentown on occation for business back home. Good to see a little local action around here.
I had my neighbor check the body out.. he said he was very impressed with how the body was rust-wise. He did say the car had a few bondo mistakes where the panels were replaced, but nothing major.. He said a supervised weekend in his garage will be sufficient :)

Im just tore up about what to do about this 351w. I wish i would have started learning this stuff years agao.
Again, all great information. The 2-3k budget was for the engine alone. I have a seperate budget for the tranny planned. Now i have to plan yet another budget for the suspention upgrade. Because im trying to stay on the cheap, what components MUST be changed. Ill start my suspention research now.

You all have been a great help. I cant say thank you enough.
Just for added info, this is going to be mostly a cruise, fun summer car. Might see the track just for sh*ts and giggles. Nothing more
Just so you all know, i am reading these, but its harder now. We just moved from where i was living here in iraq back to a main base. With that being said, im closer to home, however, it is difficult to get on the computer from here. Thanks again for the help, and when im here, ill be sure to keep you all updated. As it looks now, i might be home sooner than i thought to wrench on that stang:)
Now that is a reply. That is definitely the reason why im reading and reading on these types of websites. Suggestions i get here are not taken lightly. I take alot of these suggestions from you higer posting fellows as seasoned veterens who have been in the jungle for years, as if i would sink or swim by what you all are saying. Thats the same reason i say thank you in every post. Ive been talking to more and more people here, now that were in more of a "community" kind of group. It would seem that i dont need 700RWHP and all that madness to get what i want. I want to be thrown in the back seat. I do want a little rear wheel spin on demand, yet at the same time controlable. It seems like my father is getting cold feet with this build too. He's giving me the 'You dont know what goes into this", and the "I havent done this kind of thing in years and i dont have all the answers". Reguardless, ive wanted this car for years, and id still like to see the task through. Please wise ones, guide me through my build. I was looking at the Grab-A-Track suspention upgrade.

Should that take care of my suspention worries? What else may i need?

Ok, going with just the engine.. tell me what you would reccomend for my application. From what im gathering, 300rwhp would be more than sufficient for my application. is this correct? Or may i need less. I dont want the fastest mustang that has ever graced the local streets, because, i dont need that. I just was a great performing car, thats streetable and fun to drive.

Thanks again for all the help. Ill be back checking in soon enough. Also, if anyone would like to talk to me about this, when im around im always on AIM messenger. Feel free to get ahold of me.

amplifighterdan - Aim
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[Ok, there are many reasons for me wanting to do this car. I figure since alot of you are being kind enough to share, ill share a little extra.

The purchase of this car actually couldnt have came at better timing. I was(and still am) overseas. Girlfriend of 4 years, who i had intentions of marrying gave me the old dear john treatment, and started seeing someone else. Its a little more complex, but this is a car forum. Since then, i found this car, and this is my like 'freedom' project. Or, maybe its just my time to do me. Either way, its allready got my mind past that, and gives me soemthing to look forward to. Also, its gotta be cheaper than she was to maintain.

Three years agao, my father and i started doing a 4cyl to 8cyl convertion on my '86 Mustang. We tried to do it on a budget, and it nickel and dimed the hell out of both of us. All in all, it was just a waste of time and money. Something i do not plan on replicating here. But, before that me and my dad (well really my step-father) werent on good grounds. The car brought us together more so than i was with my actual mother. We went from not talking after their divorce, to a good healthy father/son relationship. He had a '67 back in the day, and he ended up wrecking it. Took the insurance money, swore he would never own another '67 (he loved his like no other) and bought a '69 Fairlane Cobra SCJ. That car is still in his posession to this day

Speaking of that point, i have said to him numerous times that we need to start working on that car. He told me after i get one resto under my belt, im allowed to 'take the lug nuts off'.

So there are personal reasons i want to restore this, and more so than any other is just simply, the '67 mustang is what got me interested in cars. I remember being taken to car shows when i was little, and being mad (because i was just a wee kid) standing around in the sun. But at those shows, i was always attracted to the mustang. Then my aunt bought a '66, baby blue, V6 auto, that was in relitively good shape. She sold it for peanuts to a dealer when she traded it in, however, i rode in that car for a few years, and i loved every aspect of it. Ive just always wanted this car, and now i want a little more car than the factory had to offer.

After reading numerous posts, i think im going to work on things other than driveline. I want to solid up the body, get the body where it needs to be. SFC, torque box, the body work needed. Disc brakes, track lock, rear gear ratio, ect. Just build up the driveline slowly. I got an engine stand, might as well put it to good use.

I can probally swap meet the parts i want cheaper here in the spring or something. I got all winter to work on the car before the driving season again, might as well do it right from the ground up.
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Im in the PA Army National Guard. Guard aint what it used to be i can tell you that. Im in the 56th Stryker Brigade, the only National Guard Stryker Brigade, as an 11C (Infantry Mortarman).
Just wanted to let you all know that im still alive and kicking. I got stuck as a medical hold over when i got to the states. So untill im fixed, no going home. I did however "covertly" asertain my POV (private owned vehicle). Since my VW let me down, i brought down the '67. So much for staying low profile. Anyways, im out of country and working on the stang as much as i can from here. They do have a sweet 'Auto Hobby Shop' here that you can take your car to and rent a stall. Stall is $4.50 without lift, or $5.50 with lift per hour, they provide tools. Pretty good setup aswell, bled my breaks today, and still i have about 4" of travel in the pedal.. Looks like work is never over. I tried to bleed the lines, and i cracked off a nipple today. Kinda sucks. What do i expect, it lasted 42 years :). Anyways, talk to you all later
Just another update.. started doing standard maintence on the car. Ball joints were shot, shocks were shot, wheel cylinders, timing was off about 40 degrees. Oil leaks, freeze plug leak.. all small issues, being slowly corrected. Almost all the interior chrome is pitted, im going to see what some time on the buffing wheel does. Replaced the turn signal switch, cleaned up all the chrome as good as i could with some steel wool (which i have grown to love). Still looking for a hood and fender thats not going to cost oodles to ship, if i dont find one soon, ill try during winter. Car runs good, and its strong. So far happy with the car.. Got a lead on a 383 Stroker engine that is prof. rebuilt.. so maybe :)

If anyone has a donor car sitting around that you dont need the clutch/brake pedal, linkages and so forth, please let me know :)

Thank you

If anyone here has done an automatic to manual swap here, id sure appreciate a parts list for what ill need for the swap.. i got a tranny, now im just piecing it together. Also, we decided on working a 351w for the car, so our engine guessing game is over. Thanks again for all your help
Its been a long time since i posted last, but i wanted to once again thank all of you for the advice. So far, not a bolt has been turned on the mustang since my return home in september. I was on medical hold untill mid decmeber, and i have done everything in my power to set up my garage. all i have done was clean out the two stall garage i aquired through a family member, got a 80gal single stage compressor (16.1cfm at 90psi), built the work bench, and tommrow hopefully i can get the sandblaster in the shop. Insulated the roof, installed heat (what a fiasco). But all in all, its soon getting to that time.. i also came up with a game plan finally for the way im going about getting this all done. I figure it will take about 2 years to do a complete resto by myself with the help of a few buddies and a few cases of beer for their labor. Again, thanks, and im sure i will be on more and more now that im back in the loop :)

-- Dan
I started the disassembly of the front end today.. the intention of the restoration as far as body work and clean up of rust is going to be in 1/3's.. from the front end to the end of the fender (and everything inbetween). So i tore down as far as i could without getting down to the nitty gritty and i have a few questions:

1 I have found a part i need to replace due to rust, but i do not know what in the world this part is called. Easiest way to describe it is if you look into the cars wheel well with the fender still on, its the panel most twords the rear. If the fender is off, it almost follows the line from the front of the cowl down. It has some kind of rubber material wrapped around the edge of it where it comes into contact with the fender. I dont know how to post pics or i would, but thanks ahead of time for giving it a guess without visual help

2 Is there any way to clean out the inner cowl without drilling out the welds. Im pretty sure there isnt, but id sure like to know if there is some fancy trick out there..

All and all it seems to be a straight forward disassembly. Phase 2 is to take out that 6banger. Gonna sell that to whom ever would like it. Along with the trans. 393 block/rotating assy was ordered today, so progress is moving along swell.
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(hope that works)

I believe i found it on CJ pony parts. Its called a splash sheild.

FENDER SPLASH SHIELD rt rear Behind front Wheel 1967-1968 - CJ Pony Parts, Inc.

Im hoping to have some pictures of the car up soon. I cant find my cord for my camera, so when i decide to get the laptop out and put the pics up, ill be sure to post some.


-- Dan
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Front side

Back side .. rust in the side cowl piece shows in the bottom

Top with obvious rust issue

This hole is about 1.5 "x 1"

both sections of rusting

The other side is in fine shape, although i need the two front splash guards. The kit sells for 60 or 80 bucks, so ill just replace the other side. Seems like its a simple bolt part, but im not so sure there is not some tack welds in the top.

Any suggestions on how the top section of the cowl should be removed? Im talking about the cowl that runs across the bottom of the windsheild. Word on the street is Ford never decided to do any rust prevention under there, and with the amount of work im doing, i think it may be silly just to ignore it.

As far as undercoating goes, if the old undercoating is sticking, i shouldnt have to worry about rust under it, correct? Also, should i worry about new undercoating not sticking to the old when its sprayed?

-- Dan
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