yes the cam is too small, use a high energy 268h or the summit hyd cam with 218 deg's duration and 480 lift.
21 - 40 of 43 Posts
Just so you all know, i am reading these, but its harder now. We just moved from where i was living here in iraq back to a main base. With that being said, im closer to home, however, it is difficult to get on the computer from here. Thanks again for the help, and when im here, ill be sure to keep you all updated. As it looks now, i might be home sooner than i thought to wrench on that stang
Welcome.
Read, read and then read some more. There isn't a question that you may have that has not been asked here before. Learn from the mistakes of all of us... well, not me, but most of these other guys
Anything over 300 HP to the rear wheels is going to get you in trouble in a street car. "Trouble" comes in many forms. Speeding tickets, reckless driving tickets, car in a ditch wrapped around a tree tickets..... These cars are light enough that 300 HP will plant your back firmly in the seatback. As an example.... an OEM "low back" seat back by the looks of the pictures on the cardomain site.... 350 RWHP is a race car. With stock seats and a lap belt? Really? 350 RWHP means you'll need to stop faster/quicker than the OEM brake system ever dreamed of doing. 350 RWHP will twist the unibody frame design of the car without any strengthening. Sub-frame connectors are only a piece of the strengthening puzzle. Adding a passenger side torque box to your "doesn't have one of those" '67 is one area for chassis strengthening improvement.
Think about this for a second....
If you had an unlimited budget to build a 700 HP motor.... would it spin the rear tires faster/longer than a 250 RWHP "budget engine". Yes, it would, but guess what? The object of building a high HP motor is the ability to successfully transfer that power to the ground... to create rapid forward movement/acceleration, not to spin the tires. A kid on a moped could get to the finish line before you if you're still sitting at the starting line with your tires spinning.
To get those tires to stop spinning and "bite" requires money. You could simply slap some slicks on the back and the tires would bite, but then you'd snap your pinion gear. After you invested $2-3k in a new rearend, you'd snap your 1310 series driveshaft u-joints. After you upgraded your driveshaft to a 1330/1350 series unit, you'd likely grenade the tranny.
Do you see how/where this is going?
Building a car that will reliably transfer 300 RWHP to the ground is an "undertaking". Usually one that is not accomplished by a novice in short order.
The first advice I can give you is stop watching "over-haulin' reruns". 99% of those cars are pure junk that are nothing more than a showcase for Chip's one-off wheels that never see a rain drop. Along with "overhaulin'", wipe your arse with the aftermarket car magazines that are written only to support the advertisers within them. Little, if any, real knowledge can be gained from them and the money would be better spent on something softer/more absorbant.
Come here for your education/learning experience. We all live in the real world.
The next piece of advice is to plan on it costing more than you're currently envisioning. Likely, lots more. In the end you'll have a nice car that you'll have likely spent twice as much on as it'll ever be worth.
Read, read and then read some more. There isn't a question that you may have that has not been asked here before. Learn from the mistakes of all of us... well, not me, but most of these other guys
Anything over 300 HP to the rear wheels is going to get you in trouble in a street car. "Trouble" comes in many forms. Speeding tickets, reckless driving tickets, car in a ditch wrapped around a tree tickets..... These cars are light enough that 300 HP will plant your back firmly in the seatback. As an example.... an OEM "low back" seat back by the looks of the pictures on the cardomain site.... 350 RWHP is a race car. With stock seats and a lap belt? Really? 350 RWHP means you'll need to stop faster/quicker than the OEM brake system ever dreamed of doing. 350 RWHP will twist the unibody frame design of the car without any strengthening. Sub-frame connectors are only a piece of the strengthening puzzle. Adding a passenger side torque box to your "doesn't have one of those" '67 is one area for chassis strengthening improvement.
Think about this for a second....
If you had an unlimited budget to build a 700 HP motor.... would it spin the rear tires faster/longer than a 250 RWHP "budget engine". Yes, it would, but guess what? The object of building a high HP motor is the ability to successfully transfer that power to the ground... to create rapid forward movement/acceleration, not to spin the tires. A kid on a moped could get to the finish line before you if you're still sitting at the starting line with your tires spinning.
To get those tires to stop spinning and "bite" requires money. You could simply slap some slicks on the back and the tires would bite, but then you'd snap your pinion gear. After you invested $2-3k in a new rearend, you'd snap your 1310 series driveshaft u-joints. After you upgraded your driveshaft to a 1330/1350 series unit, you'd likely grenade the tranny.
Do you see how/where this is going?
Building a car that will reliably transfer 300 RWHP to the ground is an "undertaking". Usually one that is not accomplished by a novice in short order.
The first advice I can give you is stop watching "over-haulin' reruns". 99% of those cars are pure junk that are nothing more than a showcase for Chip's one-off wheels that never see a rain drop. Along with "overhaulin'", wipe your arse with the aftermarket car magazines that are written only to support the advertisers within them. Little, if any, real knowledge can be gained from them and the money would be better spent on something softer/more absorbant.
Come here for your education/learning experience. We all live in the real world.
The next piece of advice is to plan on it costing more than you're currently envisioning. Likely, lots more. In the end you'll have a nice car that you'll have likely spent twice as much on as it'll ever be worth.
Scrap the 351W idea.
While it can be made into a performance motor.... by dumping money into it..... right now it's likely more of a boat anchor than anything else.
Less money could be spent to get "more bang for your buck"....
Pickup a used, but "running good" 5.0 out of an 87-93 Mustang GT.
Performing the work to keep this engine operating on EFI is an undertaking, but not an overwhelming one. There are many people here who can guide you (and your dad) through this process. JamesW's Website offers a wealth of information. Going EFI, in my opinion will give you "I just want a great performing car, that's streetable and fun to drive."
If the EFI conversion task seems too daunting, slap an Edelbrock RPM intake/carb on the motor and ditch the EFI stuff for a future upgrade project.
While you're still in the planning stages, consider this.... You're going to spend a lot of money in order to take a "plain jane" '67 Coupe and quickly turn it into what you're looking for. Most people that modify their Mustang do the same thing you're doing, but slowly, over the course of years and in some cases a lifetime. To do it quickly will require a rapid infusion of cash.
Rear suspension/brakes - figure $500 on the low/budget end, $1500 for moderate and $3-8k for state of the art.
Front suspension/brakes - approx. the same as the rearend figures.
Engine - $2000 on the budget end, continually higher amounts for more reliability/performance.
Transmission - $500 to $3k
Electrical - It's likely that the wiring in your car is original. Unless you have no problems with continually troubleshooting electrical gremlins that live within your 40+ year old wiring, spend the money upfront to re-wire the entire car. See Painless Wiring as an example.
With the same train of thought as the wiring, plan for the worst that all of your hard metal brake lines are original and should be replaced also. Replacing the metal brake lines is not an expensive endeavor, but it will require a day or two to accomplish if you bend/flare your own lines.... considerably less time if you buy a pre-bent replacement brake line kit, but these kits don't often work well with upgraded braking systems as they're bent for stock applications.
Chassis - There is no "frame" on these cars. The frame structural pieces are integrated into the body panels to create what is called a "unibody" design. You've stated that the chassis is relatively "rust-free", let's hope so. Performance modifications to the drivetrain and suspension will quickly exceed the design integrity/capability of the unibody. If the unibody is weakened by rust, even quicker. After ensuring that the unibody is structurally sound, you'll want to improve a few areas of the basic design. Not until 1968 did the Coupe model receive a passenger side torque box. The torque box is located at the firewall/front frame rial/floorpan joint and strengthens the unibody from torsional, lateral and longitudinal "flex". You should add a passenger side torque box to your '67. The aftermarket offers you one. Subframe connectors, heretofore refered to as "SFC's" for ease of typing. The unibody design has front frame rails and rear frame rails. These rails do not meet, but are instead connected by the floorpan. SFC's bridge the 3.5 foot gap between the ends of the front and rear rails. SFC's should be welded on to better strengthen the chassis. You could bolt them on, but in my opinion it's like kissing your cousin... fun, but it ain't going to amount to anything.
Back to.... While you're still in the planning stages, consider this....
Do you really want to spend $10k and the next year of your life doing this? Can't you just enjoy the '67 for what it is in it's current condition? $10k would go a long way towards a late model Mustang GT that would require nothing more than gas and insurance.
I had this same talk with my son a few years ago while in similar circumstances. Single, he was working for KBR in Kandahar as a contractor. With time on his hands, no bills and a checking account balance that grew $10k a month, he got bored and decided "he wanted to build a car". We built his car....
..... but now he's wishing he'd bought a house instead.
One other point to consider is that every Mustang I've bought over the years has been from someone who got in over their head, lost interest and/or ultimately took a significant loss. Consider carefully the road you are about to embark upon.
DaveSanborn said:Welcome.
Read, read and then read some more. There isn't a question that you may have that has not been asked here before. Learn from the mistakes of all of us... well, not me, but most of these other guys
Anything over 300 HP to the rear wheels is going to get you in trouble in a street car. "Trouble" comes in many forms. Speeding tickets, reckless driving tickets, car in a ditch wrapped around a tree tickets..... These cars are light enough that 300 HP will plant your back firmly in the seatback. As an example.... an OEM "low back" seat back by the looks of the pictures on the cardomain site.... 350 RWHP is a race car. With stock seats and a lap belt? Really? 350 RWHP means you'll need to stop faster/quicker than the OEM brake system ever dreamed of doing. 350 RWHP will twist the unibody frame design of the car without any strengthening. Sub-frame connectors are only a piece of the strengthening puzzle. Adding a passenger side torque box to your "doesn't have one of those" '67 is one area for chassis strengthening improvement.
Think about this for a second....
If you had an unlimited budget to build a 700 HP motor.... would it spin the rear tires faster/longer than a 250 RWHP "budget engine". Yes, it would, but guess what? The object of building a high HP motor is the ability to successfully transfer that power to the ground... to create rapid forward movement/acceleration, not to spin the tires. A kid on a moped could get to the finish line before you if you're still sitting at the starting line with your tires spinning.
To get those tires to stop spinning and "bite" requires money. You could simply slap some slicks on the back and the tires would bite, but then you'd snap your pinion gear. After you invested $2-3k in a new rearend, you'd snap your 1310 series driveshaft u-joints. After you upgraded your driveshaft to a 1330/1350 series unit, you'd likely grenade the tranny.
Do you see how/where this is going?
Building a car that will reliably transfer 300 RWHP to the ground is an "undertaking". Usually one that is not accomplished by a novice in short order.
The first advice I can give you is stop watching "over-haulin' reruns". 99% of those cars are pure junk that are nothing more than a showcase for Chip's one-off wheels that never see a rain drop. Along with "overhaulin'", wipe your arse with the aftermarket car magazines that are written only to support the advertisers within them. Little, if any, real knowledge can be gained from them and the money would be better spent on something softer/more absorbant.
Come here for your education/learning experience. We all live in the real world.
The next piece of advice is to plan on it costing more than you're currently envisioning. Likely, lots more. In the end you'll have a nice car that you'll have likely spent twice as much on as it'll ever be worth.
As usually, Dave hit it right on the head. I couldn't agree more with his post.
Just wanted to let you all know that im still alive and kicking. I got stuck as a medical hold over when i got to the states. So untill im fixed, no going home. I did however "covertly" asertain my POV (private owned vehicle). Since my VW let me down, i brought down the '67. So much for staying low profile. Anyways, im out of country and working on the stang as much as i can from here. They do have a sweet 'Auto Hobby Shop' here that you can take your car to and rent a stall. Stall is $4.50 without lift, or $5.50 with lift per hour, they provide tools. Pretty good setup aswell, bled my breaks today, and still i have about 4" of travel in the pedal.. Looks like work is never over. I tried to bleed the lines, and i cracked off a nipple today. Kinda sucks. What do i expect, it lasted 42 years . Anyways, talk to you all later
. Anyways, talk to you all laterJust another update.. started doing standard maintence on the car. Ball joints were shot, shocks were shot, wheel cylinders, timing was off about 40 degrees. Oil leaks, freeze plug leak.. all small issues, being slowly corrected. Almost all the interior chrome is pitted, im going to see what some time on the buffing wheel does. Replaced the turn signal switch, cleaned up all the chrome as good as i could with some steel wool (which i have grown to love). Still looking for a hood and fender thats not going to cost oodles to ship, if i dont find one soon, ill try during winter. Car runs good, and its strong. So far happy with the car.. Got a lead on a 383 Stroker engine that is prof. rebuilt.. so maybe
If anyone has a donor car sitting around that you dont need the clutch/brake pedal, linkages and so forth, please let me know
Thank you
Dan
If anyone has a donor car sitting around that you dont need the clutch/brake pedal, linkages and so forth, please let me know
Thank you
Dan
Its been a long time since i posted last, but i wanted to once again thank all of you for the advice. So far, not a bolt has been turned on the mustang since my return home in september. I was on medical hold untill mid decmeber, and i have done everything in my power to set up my garage. all i have done was clean out the two stall garage i aquired through a family member, got a 80gal single stage compressor (16.1cfm at 90psi), built the work bench, and tommrow hopefully i can get the sandblaster in the shop. Insulated the roof, installed heat (what a fiasco). But all in all, its soon getting to that time.. i also came up with a game plan finally for the way im going about getting this all done. I figure it will take about 2 years to do a complete resto by myself with the help of a few buddies and a few cases of beer for their labor. Again, thanks, and im sure i will be on more and more now that im back in the loop
-- Dan
-- Dan
Wow Dave,Welcome.
Read, read and then read some more. There isn't a question that you may have that has not been asked here before. Learn from the mistakes of all of us... well, not me, but most of these other guys
Anything over 300 HP to the rear wheels is going to get you in trouble in a street car. "Trouble" comes in many forms. Speeding tickets, reckless driving tickets, car in a ditch wrapped around a tree tickets..... These cars are light enough that 300 HP will plant your back firmly in the seatback. As an example.... an OEM "low back" seat back by the looks of the pictures on the cardomain site.... 350 RWHP is a race car. With stock seats and a lap belt? Really? 350 RWHP means you'll need to stop faster/quicker than the OEM brake system ever dreamed of doing. 350 RWHP will twist the unibody frame design of the car without any strengthening. Sub-frame connectors are only a piece of the strengthening puzzle. Adding a passenger side torque box to your "doesn't have one of those" '67 is one area for chassis strengthening improvement.
Think about this for a second....
If you had an unlimited budget to build a 700 HP motor.... would it spin the rear tires faster/longer than a 250 RWHP "budget engine". Yes, it would, but guess what? The object of building a high HP motor is the ability to successfully transfer that power to the ground... to create rapid forward movement/acceleration, not to spin the tires. A kid on a moped could get to the finish line before you if you're still sitting at the starting line with your tires spinning.
To get those tires to stop spinning and "bite" requires money. You could simply slap some slicks on the back and the tires would bite, but then you'd snap your pinion gear. After you invested $2-3k in a new rearend, you'd snap your 1310 series driveshaft u-joints. After you upgraded your driveshaft to a 1330/1350 series unit, you'd likely grenade the tranny.
Do you see how/where this is going?
Building a car that will reliably transfer 300 RWHP to the ground is an "undertaking". Usually one that is not accomplished by a novice in short order.
The first advice I can give you is stop watching "over-haulin' reruns". 99% of those cars are pure junk that are nothing more than a showcase for Chip's one-off wheels that never see a rain drop. Along with "overhaulin'", wipe your arse with the aftermarket car magazines that are written only to support the advertisers within them. Little, if any, real knowledge can be gained from them and the money would be better spent on something softer/more absorbant.
Come here for your education/learning experience. We all live in the real world.
The next piece of advice is to plan on it costing more than you're currently envisioning. Likely, lots more. In the end you'll have a nice car that you'll have likely spent twice as much on as it'll ever be worth.
That was beautiful.
Sounds like you're either talking about the outer cowl piece are the torquebox. If you have rust there, you are going to have it in other places. And if you start tearing into this piece, you're going to end up having to replace other rusty metal. Don't ask me how I know that.
My car a month after I got it home
You're going to need a MIG welder and some other small metal working tools to repair that rust. I'm not trying to scare you with the rust issue. Just make you aware that you might be in for a long road with rust repair.
You need to post some pictures so we can get a better idea of what you need and to help you. All you need to do to post pictures is use a picture hosting site. I use photobucket.com. It's free. Once I upload a picture there it gives me a URL where they have the photo. I copy that URL and paste it in the window that opens up when you click on the yellow colored photo icon at the top of the message box here in VMF. You should see your photo appear before you even submit your message.
21 - 40 of 43 Posts
