[jroddd]

Have a standard 289 recently rebuilt stock, I believe a .30 over bore. I want to get around 3-350 hp out of it and been looking at heads & cam kits, not sure if anyone has any recommendations or knows anywhere I can find a complete setup?

I’ll also be adding posi, 355 gears,

 

[supershifter2]

I believe a .30 over bore.

I'm not trying to be a richard but using proper math when building an engine and ordering parts is imperative. .30 is not possible. .030 is the correct number.

 

[supershifter2]

A good combo would be an "extreme energy" hydraulic cam recommendation from Compcams. Holley 600 double pumper. FPA long tube headers. Edelbrock Air Gap intake. AFR 165 heads. I can only recommend JE pistons. 10.5:1 compression. Have ARP rod bolts put in the rods. Balance the engine.

 

[kenash]

Well, you opened a door for so many options and opinions, all of which will be helpful. Beware making good HP is not cheap.

 

[Russstang]

I'm not trying to be a richard but using proper math when building and engine and ordering parts is imperative. .30 is not possible. .030 is the correct number.

Richard head…

 

[ginpunk]

Also, skip the posi and upgrade to traction-lok. I heard it’s better.

 

[supershifter2]

Richard head…

omg ! These guys are still around ! I use to see them at Baker Street in Atlanta in 1985 and would yell for them to play this song. What a bunch of richards !

 

[supershifter2]

Also, skip the posi and upgrade to traction-lok. I heard it’s better.

Get a Trutrac.

 

[DrStang]

With the stock HP advertised at 210-225 HP (2 or 4 bbl) you're looking at a 50% increase in HP. The engine has to be able to breath and achieve a higher RPM HP curve (stock 289's max hp was 4400 RPM)

Cam and heads are your base. Make sure they are a good match. From there, purchase the appropriate add ons (intake manifold, carb, headers)

It'll cost you a few dollars but it can be done and have streetability at the same time.

Good luck!

 

[subpar63]

Richard head…

I always used the name Richard Cranium on the closet to the pin contests during golf tournaments.
Those running the tournament knew who it was.

John

 

[kenash]

Anyway, not to be a "Richard head"(LOL), also know, "posi" is a GM term. But we've all used it, at one time or another. Fords, used "Equa-lok", "traction-lock", maybe a few others. . I run a '71 3.50 Equa-lok.

 

[GT289]

Have a standard 289 recently rebuilt stock, I believe a .30 over bore. I want to get around 3-350 hp out of it and been looking at heads & cam kits, not sure if anyone has any recommendations or knows anywhere I can find a complete setup?

I’ll also be adding posi, 355 gears,

Making Horsepower isn't the problem for a 289........ making worthwhile Torque is.

 

[supershifter2]

Anyway, not to be a "Richard head"(LOL), also know, "posi" is a GM term. But we've all used it, at one time or another. Fords, used "Equa-lok", "traction-lock", maybe a few others. . I run a '71 3.50 Equa-lok.

I have always called them either a posi or a locker. And when i say locker most people ask me if thats where i keep my extra pair of shoes > Driver Returns On Foot !

 

[supershifter2]

If this is your first engine build I will tell ya it cost money. And the rod bolts need replacing with ARP rod bolts. the rods are strong but the 5/16" factory bolts are not. There are good used and new factory ford Boss 302 rods out there for cheap. I highly recommend them. The 289 iron crank is strong. The block is strong. My armpits are really strong.

 

[daves67ss]

To the OP, my suggestion is to use the search feature on this forum...this exact subject has been discussed many, many times....and there are many different solutions. You'll have to sift thru everything and make your own decisions.

 

[Russstang]

If this is your first engine build I will tell ya it cost money. And the rod bolts need replacing with ARP rod bolts. the rods are strong but the 5/16" factory bolts are not. There are good used and new factory ford Boss 302 rods out there for cheap. I highly recommend them. The 289 iron crank is strong. The block is strong. My armpits are really strong.

The sound you make when you get the bill for a 350 HP 289.

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[Boss5Oh]

If you are going to replace most of the engine, why not go for a 331? Increased torque and easier to make HP. A bit more money, but for a nice street engine worth it IMO.

 

[zray]

Making Horsepower isn't the problem for a 289........ making worthwhile Torque is.

^^^^^^ +1

every 289 I modified in the camshaft dept. with an aftermarket cam lost low end torque and gained higher rpm torque and horsepower.

This is why the stroker kits are so popular. Since variable valve timing is not a realistic option for these old cars, it all comes back to needing more cubic inches to avoid low end blues.

Aftermarket cams are Nice on paper but a royal pain as a daily driver, which all of my classics have been. The stock HiPo cam is a good compromise in the low end torque area for a car that is street driven. Racing cars is a completely different story

As pointed out, putting on a better breathing head is going to be the main thing you can do if you want to keep using the stock cubic inch size.

Z

 

[macstang]

There is probably a large number of combinations that can do what you are asking. You are probably going to need to narrow this question down a bit. You are also going to need to completely tear down the engine that just got put together and start over.

 

[Grimbrand]

+1 to the points being made. 289s rip to high RPM effortlessly thanks to their short stroke, but to take advantage requires a lot of gear. Making them 'even more high RPM' by using a meaner cam will hurt mileage and streetability.

Realistically, you have a few very good choices for making wicked tire-melting power with a 289 that's still got good behavior, and some of them can be put together:

1) use forced induction. A supercharger or turbo can add enough torque to make it scary fast. Often, it will actually improve streetability or mileage.

2) use Nitrous Oxide. Laughing gas is no joke. You get on the throttle and hit the bottle, and you won't be able to see them crying behind you for the tire smoke.

Either of those strategies will require a well-thought-out build, with good forged pistons, and ring gap that's intended to work with your setup.

The third option is to just do a really good N/A build with good heads, intake, cam, and headers. You can always add nitrous or a turbo, so long as you built it to withstand the boost too.

No matter what you do, keep in mind you need to spend good money reinforcing your chassis, brakes, steering, and set up your suspension to handle the increased power. You don't want a Wile-E-Coyote one-shot ride, when you put that much time, effort, and money into a car like this. And don't forget the seatbelts.