Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
1967 Mustang Convertible
Joined
·
1,287 Posts
Assuming its a stock 28oz rebuild then you leave it on. You remove it if you are doing a neutral balance engine:
.
From the directions:
For special internally (neutrally) balanced engines, simply unscrew the two 3/8" socket head cap screws and remove the counterweight before commencing installation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42,892 Posts
Did you need an HB install tool to get it on ?
Thanks
Not if it's made well. Lube up the crank snout and inside & outside of the balancer snout with some light oil. It probably wouldn't hurt to have one on hand from your auto parts store's "loan-a-tool" program or you can fabricate one using a long bolt, 2 thick washers, a nut and a bit of grease between the washers.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
609 Posts
I would check those two bolts for tightness. Maybe even remove Loctite and reinstall.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ArizonaGT

·
Registered
1966 Blue Coupe
Joined
·
104 Posts
Ok. . Will try that. I ordered a different black one from Summit. Barely starts on. Newer one from NAPA is hard to read. Thought black might be easier..
Current one slides on / off by hand.
Sorry about hijack.
 

·
Registered
A few old Mustangs and some more modern Fords
Joined
·
22 Posts
I put my Summit balancer in the oven at 190 degrees for 30 minutes before installation. It really helped it to slide on without too much effort.

I also painted it black and highlighted the timing marks in white before installation. Well worth the effort IMHO.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Blue Tread
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
689 Posts
I wish I would have painted mine black like @Idaho Chris did, mine (Summit) already has rust marks on it just sitting in the garage... May have to pull it off and do that as I haven't done the first start yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,432 Posts
I have a black balancer and on my last engine, it was hard to see the timing marks when the engine was running. I put timing tape on it and then sprayed it with a couple of coats of clear to help hold it in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,994 Posts
It should be torqued to spec instead of just hammering it on with an air ratchet although I think people do that a lot. I cut a short length of board for doing this. It wedges against the counter weight on the back of the damper and the other end stops against the frame rail. Its easy to torque it with that for a stop.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TB350 and 69RR

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,150 Posts
I wish I would have painted mine black like @Idaho Chris did, mine (Summit) already has rust marks on it just sitting in the garage... May have to pull it off and do that as I haven't done the first start yet.
Mine is the same. Of course it's been on there 20 years. I've sanded, steel-wooled and naval jellied it and still can't read any of the marks.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top