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Discussion Starter #23
I asked him to recheck the numbers. Can a 351W head be identified while it's mounted as the casting number is on the bottom and not visible?
 

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Those casting numbers for the heads and block are confusing.

The '70 351 heads on my 331 have "351" on the head under the valve cover and it says "DOOE" and "351" on the bottom of the intake ports on the underside (hard to see unless you took the head off). There were some other numbers on the heads but I don't remember what they were. Your heads may be a different year and have different numbers on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The block is a D2OE-AB, 1972 to 1974 302 Windsor with 2 bolt mains.
I guess I need to look at a piston top to see if it's dished or flat.
If it is a stock 72-74 bottom end, what pistons would be expected? Off hand I'd guess dished for smog.
 

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3B23 on the head indicates 1973, Feb, 23. The desirable 351W heads had casting dates starting with 8, 9 or 0.
The basic casting number for a block is 6015, not 8016. D2OE-6015-AB with a date code of 3G11 was cast on 1973, Jul, 11.
I wouldn't waste my time with this engine.
 

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1966 Mustang GT 4sp Nightmist Blue
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IMO, anyone that has pulleys the same color of the engine did a spray paint rebuild. :)

If youre running roller rockers you should always have guide plates and the factory slots opened up to prevent binding. Too the color of the baked on oil on the heads looks identical to my 118k mile 289

Any one running FI wouldnt have a mechanical fuel pump either.

My opinion, run and don’t look back.

Chris
 

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74, so, its a nice little 302, with somewhat better heads than most 302s. So, are you going to buy ? Whats the plan ? LSG
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'm going to make an offer. It's closer to a plug and play engine than the GT40P that I've been looking for..
A big Thank You to everyone for your help.
 

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My guess: Misread a craptastic casting number and it's a D2OE-8016-AB (July 1973 302).


Edit: Oh, I see someone already figured that out. Never mind.
 

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Please be careful.

That period of time, early mid 70's, was NOT a great time for engines. Smog, detuning due to insurance regulations, etc.

The engines were choked and compression dropped.

Cars that were sitting scrapped in junkyards were faster than what came out of Detroit, so you are looking at buying an engine designed for a time of mediocrity and sadness in America.
 

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74R, some of the 'its junk' and 'pass on this one' opinions are absurd. A 302 isn't a bad choice just because it came from the early 70s or because it has 351W heads on it. Check the firing order if you purchase it, if it has 13726548, it was probably a marine engine. The marine engines did NOT have the retarded timing chains that the early to mid 70s cars did. It could also be someones built up 302 from a long ago project. The GTP Explorer head so many are fascinated with has the same intake ports and valves as the early 351W, it is just as capable of making power. Think of it as a 302 that ALREADY HAS upgraded heads. LSG
 

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I have no problem at all with the engine setup. I'd throw a fun cam and some 351 heads on a 302 in a skinny minute. But that's ME doing stuff to an engine that I already know the condition of. I'm sorry, I just can't put that much faith in some random person with an extra engine lying around for no really good reason. I've seen too many spray paint rebuilds by people with no conception of mechanical tolerances. If it is priced as "rebuildable" and will be completely torn down for at least a thorough inspection then never mind I guess.
 
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74R, some of the 'its junk' and 'pass on this one' opinions are absurd. A 302 isn't a bad choice just because it came from the early 70s or because it has 351W heads on it. Check the firing order if you purchase it, if it has 13726548, it was probably a marine engine. The marine engines did NOT have the retarded timing chains that the early to mid 70s cars did. It could also be someones built up 302 from a long ago project. The GTP Explorer head so many are fascinated with has the same intake ports and valves as the early 351W, it is just as capable of making power. Think of it as a 302 that ALREADY HAS upgraded heads. LSG
I have no problem at all with the engine setup. I'd throw a fun cam and some 351 heads on a 302 in a skinny minute. But that's ME doing stuff to an engine that I already know the condition of. I'm sorry, I just can't put that much faith in some random person with an extra engine lying around for no really good reason. I've seen too many spray paint rebuilds by people with no conception of mechanical tolerances. If it is priced as "rebuildable" and will be completely torn down for at least a thorough inspection then never mind I guess.
GypsyR, same thing I said above. The quality of work isnt there on the outside of the engine, its not showing it on the removed valve cover, what makes anyone think this worth more than scrap value? He says it needs a rear main(old age?), if that needs to be replaced, no harm in having him remove the oil pan and while you are there for that money, pull a head too.

Chris
 

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Saying this nicely:

Based on the level of your questions and your understanding, you should not be buying a used engine from "SOME GUY" based on what they say. there are about 4 levels deeper of understanding that you need before you offer more than 4 cents a pound.

For example,

you never asked about what tools / measurement devices to use, which implies, you don't know enough to ask. much less know what the information would tell you.

You don't know casting numbers, or even that a series of numbers/letters quoted is wrong.

Difference between Cleveland and Windsor

Etc.

Please get assistance on this, otherwise, you may be just throwing the money in the fire, and winding up with 600 pounds of someone else's junk.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
OK, I'll admit my Ford knowledge is on the low end of the learning curve and those with knowledge suggested I avoid this engine for several good reasons, but I threw out a low ball price that wouldn't hurt even if there is a problem. He went for it and I'm picking it up tomorrow morning.
He did send me a video of the engine running. Cam is definitely not stock. He also cleared up the confusion about the fuel injection. It was put on the engine to keep it clean after he removed his intake and carb. He was also able to look in a spark plug hole to ID a flat top piston with valve reliefs. I would've passed on it if they were dished.
I'm also tired of looking for a good GT40P. This engine will at least be closer to plug-and-play.
 

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Good for you. No different rolling the dice on this or any other used motor. Update thread after install and let us know how it runs.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I got lucky! The engine has very low miles. It was built for a hot.rod truck that was wrecked at about 1K miles. The 2nd owner bought it for his 1951 truck. 500 miles later the trans died and was replaced with an AOD trans that wasn't compatible with the cam. He changed engines and sold it to me 5 years later.
The intake and carb were not included.
The bearings still look new.
The crank is a 2M casting
The heads are 351W DOOE castings with screw-in rocker studs, guide plates and Harland Sharp roller rockers. I don't know the ratio yet.
Dbl roller timing chain.
The pistons are pop ups with valve reliefs cut. Rods and block are stock 302 parts.
Also included were the starter, Holly fuel pump, chrome plated alternator, pulleys, belts, brackets and a wire harness for the engine.

I know my 289 4bbl intake will work, but I'm looking hard at a RPM Performer.
 
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