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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
This morning was the bottoms of the upper and lower cowl panels. Time to break for the GAME (which shall not be named without express written consent ) You can probably tell who I'm rooting for from the background
20200202_170003453_iOS.jpg 20200202_170008323_iOS.jpg

My wife says she likes the smell, +1 for me
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Speedokote, we’ll see how it is. There seems to be so many options out there, it’s hard to make a decision; I went the cheap route. I’m going to let it cure for a while and see how it holds up to some solvents. If it ends up being no good, I’ll probably go with SPI, I haven’t seen many bad reviews. Any other suggestions?


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Speedokote, we’ll see how it is. There seems to be so many options out there, it’s hard to make a decision; I went the cheap route. I’m going to let it cure for a while and see how it holds up to some solvents. If it ends up being no good, I’ll probably go with SPI, I haven’t seen many bad reviews. Any other suggestions?


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Not sure what you used but I have used Kirker allot and had no problems with it. The El Camino was stripped to bare steel because of lacquer paint.... No issues after over 10 years and it is out in the weather all the time.

Summit is selling epoxy and I am thinking it is Kirker as the mix ratio is the same and other things as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
I used this, 4:1 with optional reducer. I will say it does lay down nicely; I didn’t reduce it at all. I’ve never sprayed an epoxy before; maybe it’s typical to all of them, but it smells a whole lot like Cerakote.




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Speedokote, we’ll see how it is. There seems to be so many options out there, it’s hard to make a decision; I went the cheap route. I’m going to let it cure for a while and see how it holds up to some solvents. If it ends up being no good, I’ll probably go with SPI, I haven’t seen many bad reviews. Any other suggestions?


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I'll be using the SPI I already purchased. I haven't sprayed it yet but have rolled and bushed it on but it get little bubbles in it applying it that way.

What are you using to apply it? It looks really nice in the photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Another cheapo Porter Cable gravity gun I've had for a long time. I really want to get one of these, I hate cleanup...
 

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Another cheapo Porter Cable gravity gun I've had for a long time. I really want to get one of these, I hate cleanup...
Buy whatever spray gun you like then get a PPS adapter for it and then order these. They are knock off PPS cups and work well. The bigger ones are a little more but still less than the 3m branded ones.

I spray epoxy with the purple HF gun or the $10 one. Both work just fine. After the epoxy you will either let it dry and then use filler then 2K or spray 2K right on the primer during it's recoat window so a perfect finish on epoxy isn't a big deal. You will either cover it or rough it up before putting some sort of filler on it later.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Buy whatever spray gun you like then get a PPS adapter for it and then order these. They are knock off PPS cups and work well. The bigger ones are a little more but still less than the 3m branded ones.

I spray epoxy with the purple HF gun or the $10 one. Both work just fine. After the epoxy you will either let it dry and then use filler then 2K or spray 2K right on the primer during it's recoat window so a perfect finish on epoxy isn't a big deal. You will either cover it or rough it up before putting some sort of filler on it later.
I like that the paint goes straight from the cup to the tip and that I wouldn’t have to disassemble the gun to clean the body of it out, and you can switch tip sizes easily without having to keep track of different orifices/air caps.


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Discussion Starter #30
Speedokote, we’ll see how it is. There seems to be so many options out there, it’s hard to make a decision; I went the cheap route. I’m going to let it cure for a while and see how it holds up to some solvents. If it ends up being no good, I’ll probably go with SPI, I haven’t seen many bad reviews. Any other suggestions?


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Seems to hold up well. It’s been around 48hrs since I sprayed the dash and an acetone soaked rag and some vigorous scrubbing leaves a shiny spot, but it doesn’t come off.



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I like that the paint goes straight from the cup to the tip and that I wouldn’t have to disassemble the gun to clean the body of it out, and you can switch tip sizes easily without having to keep track of different orifices/air caps.


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Yeah the Accuspray is a great disposable system. Great for primers. No cleaning just toss the cup and nozzle tip and you are done.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
It almost looks like a car again. I got the doors re-hung, the firewall screwed back into place, and the new front end down from the ceiling and close-ish to where it should be (with some help from my 12yo daughter). I’m pretty much done for tonight, maybe this week, I can test fit the cowl panels, hood, and fenders.




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Discussion Starter #33
Speaking of fenders, I mentioned in a previous post that the front end off of a ‘67 had been grafted onto my ‘68 (including fenders, hood, and grille). My rear quarters have reflectors on them, but I kind of prefer not having the side markers on the front fenders. I also like the ‘67 grille over the ‘68. I’m not building a show car, so... what should I do? Make it correct for it’s year, or make what I like and keep people really confused as to what year it is???


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It almost looks like a car again. I got the doors re-hung, the firewall screwed back into place, and the new front end down from the ceiling and close-ish to where it should be (with some help from my 12yo daughter). I’m pretty much done for tonight, maybe this week, I can test fit the cowl panels, hood, and fenders.




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Looks good. I like how you are hanging the aprons from the ceiling. I have my 66 all held together with screws, clecos, cleco clamps, vice grips, c clamps and real hardware. The only parts welded in are the front floor supports in this picture. I just need to pick up a new spool of .030 wire for the frame rail and shock tower welding and it is ready to be permanent. Wanted to make sure everything was aligning well before welding. The front will be supported by a steel frame during welding to prevent movement as those bins sag a little over a few weeks and have to be reshimmed when I work on it.
I am surprised with how tight I am able to get the fender to door gaps with the repro fenders. The valance and stone shield fit surprisingly well too.

As for your question on the markers and grille.. Build it how you want. I will be using a 65 grille and other mix and match parts. There are way way too many stock mustangs at car shows. When My dad and I would go we would generally walk past most as they were so plentiful that the feeling was it's just another mustang. Put whatever you want into it and make it your own.

 

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Discussion Starter #36
Is this the front frame measurement reference point? It’s hard to see in the picture, it’s out of focus, but I have a plumb bob hanging off the front flange. It seems to be right on my layout line, but my fender to door gap is very tight and the fender is pushed as far forward as it will go (picture was taken standing at the front of the car looking down at mounting bolts on top of the apron).





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Can you move your firewall forward any?

This is potentially the issue with the one piece frame rails and apron assembly because you can't adjust it as much for spacings. Yes, I believe that's one of the reference points but on the Liskey if I recall correctly.

I have my measurements of the length of the top of the aprons from the upper cowl I can get you. There's also someone on here who posted a CAD drawing and my measurements were pretty close to that if you can find it. Those measurements should indicate why those holes aren't lining up with the fenders.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Can you move your firewall forward any?

This is potentially the issue with the one piece frame rails and apron assembly because you can't adjust it as much for spacings. Yes, I believe that's one of the reference points but on the Liskey if I recall correctly.

I have my measurements of the length of the top of the aprons from the upper cowl I can get you. There's also someone on here who posted a CAD drawing and my measurements were pretty close to that if you can find it. Those measurements should indicate why those holes aren't lining up with the fenders.
I have a little room I can move the firewall forward. In retrospect, I should have just bought the individual parts and put it together myself. I figured since it all needed to be replaced, I'd be time and money ahead to get the assembly.

I haven't looked in a while, but it seems I never could find any Liskey measurements, I only have the shop manual dimensions, which are somewhat lacking... It would have been very helpful if the plan and side dimensions referenced the same points, or something as simple as rear spring front hanger to upper suspension front hole. The very tip of the frame rail is right on the 64.62" dimension in the previous picture. I drew a centerline and two parallel lines on my garage floor and used trammel points/intersecting arcs to lay out the 64.62", 42.50", and 52.50" dimensions shown in plan and set the car in place on top of the reference marks.
Frame Dimensions.jpg


The old front end was longer than the new one, but I think I know why...

RH Shock Tower Outside View.jpg



I would greatly appreciate any dimensions you have!!! I'll see if I can find the CAD. Can you tell me what the distance is from the front of cowl to the front of the core support on each side? Firewall to core support on each side?
 

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Yes you have the right spot for that dimension from the front edge of the frame rail to the center of the rear hole in the front floor support. However....
The replacement frame rails are off a little and I know on mine that flange sticks out very different amounts on each side. I found another drawing that had the dimension from the floor support hole to the rear edge of the oval hole at the front of the frame rail.

Cowl edge to front of rad support should be around 44 3/8.

I did all loose pieces and I wish I would have gone with the assembled units... Getting all those aftermarket parts to fit together is not easy. The holes in the shock towers and fender aprons don't line up well and so on...

The Liskey drawing is basically a version of the factory drawing but it has a few errors on it. Don't take any one drawing for the true number. Check against others and see which is more common. Just type 67 mustang frame measurements into Google and click pictures. You will get countless diagrams and measurements on others project cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Yeah, I have pulled info from other threads and forums regarding ‘67s since mine should be the same. I just never could seem to be able to find the Liskey for those years. It’s entirely possible that the body’s a little twisted, too. All the gaps looked good before, so there should be some way to get it back together.


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