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That's why I have assembled everything on mine with screws, clamps, clecos and bolts so I can jig it all up and make sure stuff lines up before I start welding it together. Basically I can just start welding with everything together as it's where it needs to be. I have my pass fender a little too far rearward due to the inner frame of the new fender not being too far forward. I also had to grind most of the mounting bracket off for it to sit low enough.

I did forget to drill my plug welds in the drivers shock tower though... I think I will spot drill then drill it until I hit the mating steel then finish the hole with an end mill. That way I can leave it together but still get the hole drilled.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Measured from front of core support, I’m 44 1/2” on the left and 44 7/16” on the right to the front of the cowl. I guess the firewall and cowl need to move forward a little???



I have my door gap at the quarters set at 1/8”, which seemed reasonable to me. I’d hate to push it any tighter than that.




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In that top one you are right at 44 3/8. Go by the flat front of the cowl not the rounded edge. The other side yeah is too long still.

1/8" is really tight gaps for this age of car. If you can get it and get it to work it'll look good but the factory gaps were pretty big. Most cars today have gaps bigger than 1/8.
 

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There is obviously allot of fudge factor. From the drawing in that other thread it's right there with what you are seeing so if it all fits right I call it good. There is allot of room at the front of the car for stuff to line up as allot of it is dependent on the fenders since everything is mounted to them.

That Dynacorn one at 3/4 is longer than what I have measured on cars and found for other measurements. But I don't see why it would be an issue.

The fender gaps look really good to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
This has some useful info How to design and build a frame jig in only 6 months!

The Liskey in the link above is for a 70 but will work. If you look hard, there's a 59 inch dimension on the Liskey that's very useful.
Yeah, I’ve had that bookmarked for a while and is where I got this.



Like he says, I think it’s application specific and can’t be used for all cars. The original frame rails were 29 5/8” between them, but based on the new parts and various measurements, it’ll need to be 29 1/2”. I think I’m fighting a multitude of problems by starting out with a wrecked front end that can’t be trusted and re-pop parts that aren’t as good as OEM. Look at the difference between left and right apron to core support alignment



By the time I’m actually ready to start welding things in, I’ll have so many holes from assembling and disassembling that I’ll probably have to weld up the bad ones so I don’t get things put back in the wrong spot



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The alignment of those oval holes on my 66 is actually pretty good and they are the same size unlike yours... And yeah I have some extra holes here and there... Most of them are 1/8" cleco holes but not many.

What we will not know is if parts changed through production and were all the dies for parts the same. There would have been multiple sets of dies for every part because they need polishing and rework due to wear. The only part I have any knowledge on is the mold for the 65-66 tail light lens. The ones sold as original tooling are not really original tooling. My uncle made that set of dies back in the early 2000s or so. He was a tool and die and they did rework of old dies and new dies for the officially licenced parts back then. Hopefully he kept a few samples when they were testing it... He also made the die for the roll bar for the vert Mustangs around that time as well.
 

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We are currently doing the exact same part(s). Give a couple days and can send our placement and measurements. So far your previous measurements 64.62" = (1641.35mm), 42.50" = (1079.50mm), (52.-50" = 1333.50mm). Canadian eh, '68 coupe too.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
A lot of what I’m probably fighting, left side reference point from old and new LCA looks pretty good as far as fore and aft.


The right side, on the other hand, is 3/8” further forward than the old one, but not surprising when I saw what was underneath the carpet... a nice wrinkle in the tunnel. The right frame rail had obviously been pushed backwards from whatever collision it had been in.





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Discussion Starter #57
We are currently doing the exact same part(s). Give a couple days and can send our placement and measurements. So far your previous measurements 64.62" = (1641.35mm), 42.50" = (1079.50mm), (52.-50" = 1333.50mm). Canadian eh, '68 coupe too.
Funny, I work in a commercial cabinet shop and we’re an odd mix of metric and imperial. I draw parts and program our CNC’s and can tell you without even thinking that 37mm is 1.4567” Ask me to show you how long a 1500mm parts is, though, I have no clue


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Discussion Starter #60
I know the conversion well, it’s that I can easily demonstrate about 5’ vs. 1500mm (yes, I had to use my calculator).


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