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Discussion Starter #121
Check the dimensions between the outer bolt holes and one of the bolt holes at the shock tower. We had an export brace that was 3cm (approx 1.18") longer on the LH side. Sent it back, got a new one and the dimensions are equal now.
Mine is a little longer on the left side, but by 3mm, not 3cm.

This did not help things, that’s as far forward as that bolt will go, the head is hitting the flange below where it turns up and welds to the shock tower. It was put together wrong and need to rotate CW in the pic. The holes in the flange where the bolts go in line up, but it just doesn’t work.





I think if I can get that fixed, it should fit much better.


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Discussion Starter #122
I would love 75F compared to our 21F (10F with wind chill), and this is warmish for us.
A number of years ago, I was in Russia in the winter, a couple of hours drive north of Moscow. Highs were around -20C; lows around -30C. I hate the cold...


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Discussion Starter #123
This did not help things, that’s as far forward as that bolt will go, the head is hitting the flange below where it turns up and welds to the shock tower. It was put together wrong and need to rotate CW in the pic. The holes in the flange where the bolts go in line up, but it just doesn’t work.





I think if I can get that fixed, it should fit much better.


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A little friendly persuasion with a flat punch and a hammer fixed that.



Maybe it won’t scrape the cowl anymore.




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Discussion Starter #125
What about just grinding the edge of the flange/head of that carriage bolt.
I thought about that, but I would have had to grind off the head almost back to the square flat. It’s still tighter on the left side, probably because the left is 1/8”[3mm] longer, but doesn’t hit the cowl anymore.



It’s pretty darn close to square measured diagonally from the front of the core support to the cowl.





Oddly enough, the holes in my export brace seem to line up with the holes in the firewall that were off center to the PS by 3/16”[4.75mm]. I’m going to take the cowl panels off and get a better look. I think it may be a case of making the parts that I have all work together with a few tweaks and adjustments here and there.

Besides, if my front wheels are staggered a little, that’ll just help coming out of the lights, right? (I’m just kidding, I work with a guy that used to race and did that to his car. I am not building a race car. Gotta work within the grey areas...)


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Discussion Starter #126
So, they do line up with the firewall. I guess I know which holes to use since neither the firewall, lower cowl, or upper cowl lined up.




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Looks good Beamish, Digger needs to add 5mm (13/64" approx) to the firewall on the PS. I moved to the back DS wheelhouse and have made myself a small mini project. It's now mostly cut out. Have a few other non mustang things to do this week, but will do a bit as I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Well, for better or worse, the firewall is in and the wrong holes from assembling, disassembling, reassembling, etc., are filled in... Grinding; smoothing will have to wait until tomorrow.





Oops, I missed...




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Discussion Starter #129
I haven’t messed anything up yet, centerline still looks good (it’s hard to see, my marks have faded).




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Discussion Starter #130
So, I was texting some pics to my boss (who has a 1969 pace car), and he was giving me grief about not using my Plumb Barbara instead of a regular old plumb bob. Here she is... I’m sorry if I offend anyone...




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So, I was texting some pics to my boss (who has a 1969 pace car), and he was giving me grief about not using my Plumb Barbara instead of a regular old plumb bob. Here she is... I’m sorry if I offend anyone...




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I like, where could one obtain one for themselves?
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Hit the marks with a little clear spray paint. Works great for setting the lines when tiling a floor as well.
I did, two coats of some spray polyurethane, but my continual walking across them and sweeping has worn through.


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Well, for better or worse, the firewall is in and the wrong holes from assembling, disassembling, reassembling, etc., are filled in... Grinding; smoothing will have to wait until tomorrow.

Oops, I missed...

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At some point you have to stop measuring and fiddling and just start welding. I welded my frame rails in last weekend now onto welding everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
So, welds ground down and blended the best I can (I need to take it a little easier with the cut-off wheel for the initial grinding), and I’m wondering what to do next.



Should I get the frame rail assemblies put on before I do the cowls? My thinking is that if I do that, I can get a good coat of epoxy primer on the back of the firewall while I have easy access to it. Anyone with experience/insights?

I still need to prime the inside of the lower cowl, so I could get get both that and the back of the firewall done at the same time.

I’m going to put the lower cowl on by itself first; is it a good or bad idea to screw it down everywhere I want to plug weld, unscrew it, and then punch holes where the screws were? Same thing with the upper. I want to make sure everything still looks good as I go, so I’m going to re-fit the front end sheet metal after each individual part gets welded in.

Should I bother with trying to smooth out the back sides of my plug welds from the cowl side panels to firewall? Opinions? I will probably smooth out the ones that are easy to get to (e.g. fender aprons to firewall), but should I bother with these or any other hard to reach areas? What do people typically do?





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I wouldn't bother smoothing out those welds. They are in the wheel well and will never be seen unless you pull the fenders.

As for the cowl... I did not do anything with mine because I wanted it as a reference point for getting everything else into place. Once that stuff is done up front then I will decide what the cowl needs.
 

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Just wire brush the welds. No one will ever see them.

Curious what you guys are using for epoxy primer. Digger used to use PPG DP90, no longer available in Canada though.
 

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Just wire brush the welds. No one will ever see them.

Curious what you guys are using for epoxy primer. Digger used to use PPG DP90, no longer available in Canada though.

I am using Kirker right now. Have used it in the past about 15 years ago with no problems. I prefer Akzo Nobel which only makes aircraft paint but epoxy is epoxy for the most part. When I can I get it when it is out of date for certification use but it's either bright ugly yellow or green. It's a few 100 a gallon normally but when I can get it it is much much cheaper.

I have heard you can't buy fertilizer anymore in Canada as well.
 

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Elcam, I will look into those. We can get PPG DP still, just low voc now instead of what we've used in the past. May still use that or maybe Endura. We can still buy fertilizer.
 

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Elcam, I will look into those. We can get PPG DP still, just low voc now instead of what we've used in the past. May still use that or maybe Endura. We can still buy fertilizer.
The kirker is enduro prime. I have been very happy with it. Summit sells an epoxy primer now and I think it might be kirker as it has the same mix and the tech sheets etc make me think that. Kirker parent company primarily makes paint for other companies. Could be wrong just an educated guess.

I am going to spray some this afternoon. Just blasted the firewall. Want it primed before I weld the aprons on. Started sanding then wire brushing and after 20 minutes the layers of Rustoleum etc were just gumming up. Blasted it all in 30 minutes including a clogged tip.
80* here and warmer tomorrow. Dreading summer already.
744706
 
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